A 12-quart pot was cutting it pretty close for 11.5lbs (1 gallon) of honey. The foam was right at the brim of the pot on much of the 2-hour boil. If I did it over again, I’d definitely use a bigger pot.
I was shooting for 3lbs of honey/gallon of must, but a gallon jug (the most convenient bulk honey unit) is 11.5lbs. So I tried to top up the water to ~3.8 gallons, but what’re you gonna do? I can only be so accurate with 1/2 gallon markings on the carboy.
It started at 28.9°Bx which is dang high, but I’m kind of flying by the seat of my pants on this one. I pitched a packet of S-04, which based on what I’ve heard from other brewers will stop between 9% and 13% ABV. That’s kind of a big spread, so I plan on giving it a taste when the gravity stabilizes. If it’s too sweet for me, I’ll probably pitch a second strain like a tolerant wine yeast.
The nutrient additions aren’t going to be complicated. 27g total of Fermax yeast nutrient (about 4tsp) added in 9g increments on day 0, day 3, and day 6. This is called a staggered nutrient addition (SNA). If all the nutrients are added at the beginning, you tend to get a large temperature spike which can cause off flavors. Spreading out the nutrient additions means you get several spikes in temperature, but they’re not as dramatic.
11.5lbs (1 gallon) of clover honey
Top-up water to 3.8 gallons, boiled or bottled
1 packet of Safale S-04 English Ale yeast
27g (~4tsp) Fermax yeast nutrient
Heat the jug of honey in a hot water bath to make it easier to pour. A brewing bucket is perfect for this.
Pour the honey into a large pot. Heat over low heat until it begins boiling.
Boil for 2 hours, stirring to reduce foam. Keep a spray bottle of water on hand to prevent boil-overs. Be very careful. Boiling honey is very hot and very sticky. The honey will darken in color considerably, but should not burn. P.S. Don’t make a huge sticky mess on the stove like I did.
Transfer the pot to an ice bath to chill. Add a gallon of top-up water to the pot and stir to expedite the process.
Siphon the must to a sanitized fermenter. Top up to 3.8 gallons.
Pitch your yeast. I have not seen enough evidence to suggest that rehydrating yeast does much of anything on the homebrewing scale. If it makes you feel good, do that. As for me, I just dump the packet in.
Add 9g of the yeast nutrient and aerate the must. I use a wine degassing rod and a 12V cordless drill, but use whatever makes you comfortable.
Degas the mead and add 9g of nutrient on the 3rd day of fermentation. Repeat these steps on the 6th day of fermentation as well.
Past that, the recipe is basically just “wait and see.”