I spent only 24 hours at Champakali, a luxury boutique villa/hotel tucked away on a quiet hillside up the winding road from the Se cathedral in old Goa. There is still something called Goa time and you segue effortlessly into it so 24 hours stretched out lazily and gently, though Champakali may have had something to do with it too.
The winding road ends at the beautiful church of Mount Mary and Champakali just two gates short of the church is a cluster of two villas in the cul de sac of a gated community. The villas though not Goa Velha style or vibe, are elegantly built to let you believe you have your own home with super staff and discreet service. I have inadvertently deleted the pictures so you have to imagine the white walls, the cast iron balconies, the terracotta touches, the floor tiles and beautiful shades of aqua, beige and nude patterns in curl up –and- read sofas and armchairs and beautiful old trees in a slightly over manicured lawn (I like my gardens wilder and more unkempt)
I checked in on impulse after seeing pictures my friends had put up on their social feed. I was headed to Palolem on the other side of Goa but an available room and a rather good deal on booking .com made a detour an easy decision. I had a large room in one of the villas with my own private balcony, tables scattered around the garden to choose where I wanted my meals served and a living room with views of the greenery. A plus in my book – a supply of carefully curated teas, a kettle outside my door and silence all around. Add a selection of nature inspired toiletries to that list. It turned out to be a lovely place to spend some quiet time, walk up to the hilltop church in the early hours of the morning to enjoy the views, walk down to the cathedral and old church of Bom Jesus before the crowds came in .
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There was no one else in my villa the night I stayed so it was very private. I don’t know how it will be when fully booked. The breakfast was excellent – fresh fruit, delicious homemade muesli and hot poi from St Francis bakery down the road.
Dinner could have been better ( I ordered a grilled fish ) but that is nitpicking and since I must nitpick, the reading lights and night lamps need some looking into ( I am a fussy bedtime reader ) but wifi works well. The service was excellent and unobtrusive throughout. They booked me a really good driver and car to take me to Palolem the next day and the manager gave me detailed map and list of things to do en route because I wanted to stop for lunch at Loutoulim – little touches that add to the experience.
Champakali is part of a growing trend in Goa and many other popular places across India. Increasingly city travellers want to be in beautiful, quiet spaces to enjoy their downtime with nature but enjoy some efficient service as well. And five star hotels and buzzing noisy places however cool simply won’t do it.
Champakali, Old Goa I spent only 24 hours at Champakali, a luxury boutique villa/hotel tucked away on a quiet hillside up the winding road from the Se cathedral in old Goa.
