Mount Aroania (also known as Chelmos or Helmos) is, at 2,355m (7729 ft), the third highest mountain in the Peloponnese, so it wasn’t surprising that we needed warm weather clothing despite it being southern Greece in May. It was cloudy and dull all day. But if that meant some flowers stayed closed and hidden, there were still so many others that we didn’t notice.
The Mount Chelmos Violet Viola chelmea was first described from this region, but is found over a much wider area of south-east Europe.
This area has long been considered a botanical paradise, and parts of it have had some degree of official protection. However, in 2009 The National Park of Chelmos – Vouraikos was formally established in order to preserve the biodiversity, the natural resources and the ecological value of the natural ecosystems in the area around the mountain range of Chelmos and the river of Vouraikos.
The overall extent of the protected area is approximately 54,400 ha. More than a thousand species of flowering plant have been recorded here, including over 100 Greek endemics, of which 30 are more local endemics. Many species have Chelmos or Aroania in their scientific names as they were first described from this region. There are also endemic butterflies and other invertebrates. Not forgetting fish, 9 species of amphibians, 18 species of mammals (including five bats, otter and wildcat) and 149 species of bird.
The road from Kalavrita twisted its way up to the ski centre. The landscape was mostly forest of Greek Fir, Abies cephalonica (top photo), but there were some open areas, usually with enough parking space to get off the road easily. At each stopping place we found new species – species that were more and more specialised for higher altitudes.
At one layby on the lower slopes, there was a deadnettle with large pale flowers threaded with cerise – apparently well-described by it scientific name of Lamium garganicum (above left) except that it’s derived from Gargano (Italy) rather than from it being gargantuan. Bright yellow stands of leopards-bane Doronicum orientale (above right) glowed from the edge of the tree stands. White alpine rockcress Arabis alpina nestled in the scree in hollows, contrasting with its bright pink relative spring rockcress Arabis verna at the edge of the scree.
The variety of colour increased at the next stop, as we came across Anchusa undulata with its dark mauve flowers, the small southern red bartsia Parentucellia latifolia, one of the many yellow rockroses Heliathaemum ledifolium and the pinky-white Greek Candytuft Aethionema graeca as well as the Viper’s grass (or grass-leaved dandelion) Scorzonera mollis (below right) and the Grass-leaved scabious Scabiosa graminifolia. The list kept growing as eleven pairs of eyes kept looking.
Margaret ushered us towards a dip where she had found our first Fritillary, Fritillaria graeca (above left), with its brown and green striped flower. Meawhile Elspeth found a large mauve carpet of periwinkel Vinca herbacea (above middle).
Not quite trusting the weather, we continued straight to the ski centre and had our picnic lunch to the accompaniment of singing woodlarks and black redstarts. It was also an opportunity to take our eyes off the ground and enjoy the scenery. Inevitably the resort has had some negative effect on the biodiversity immediately surrounding it, but this is only a small part of the mountain. The whole area is protected as a Natura 2000 site due to its landscapes of unique beauty, traditional settlements, archaeological areas, caves and rivers.
Solenanthus stamineus (below), a strange relative of the borage family which is restricted to this area.
Refreshed, we explored the slope beyond the ski centre. Amongst the thorny burnet Sarcopterium spinosa and the Berberis cretica we found many more of the fritillaries but also different violets and Solenanthus stamineus (below), a strange relative of the borage family which is restricted to this area.
There were undoubtedly more treasures higher up, but this was supposed to be an easy trip. The average age of participants was well over sixty – with at least one in her eighties. Elspeth went uphill like a mountain goat, but needed help walking down over the rocky slope. Several people were, sensibly, using walking poles on the rough ground.
Stopping again as we headed downhill, we found elder-flower orchid Orchis sambucina in both yellow and red colour forms (middle and right below), and a slim pink spike with green upper petals of Orchis spitzelli (below left). And then the lovely endemic Mount Aroanium flax Linum aroanium.
A few spots of rain hastened our departure, and became more persistent as we journeyed downhill, heading for a more sheltered option for the rest of the day.
Spileo Limnon lies on the west side of Mount Aroania, at an altitude of 800m near the village Kastria south of Kalavrita. Geologically, the cave is the bed of a subterranean river, 2100m long, which which flows only during the winter rains. When the rain stops, the water flow stops, leaving up to thirteen pools which remain through much of the summer – hence the name Cave of the Lakes. Approximately 500m of the cave system is open to the public, and, being underground, it made a good place to escape the rain.
The show cave – some 40m long, 15m wide and 30m high, is known as the Bat Hall. A large bat colony occupies part of the ceiling. My bat detector picked up at least three types (myotis, pipistrelle and horseshoe) of the five species said to reside in the cave system. They chattered from above, and occasionally flew around. Guano made some of the steps slippery. Our guide led us through a tunnel and across a bridge, pointing out stalagmites and stalagtites, as well as man-made deposits (cremations, hearths, floor levels, pottery, food remains and tools) that indicated habitation of the cave from the Neolithic to the Late Bronze Age.
The taverna provided further escape from the rain, and we watched carpenter bees flying along the eaves while we waited for our orders. However, the owner seemed to be holding the fort alone: he provided some entertainment as several coach-loads arrived and he endeavoured to serve the whole taverna by himself. Eventually our coffees, and the dishes of yoghurt with honey and nuts arrived, along with a sample of the local tipple.
The rain had stopped by the time we returned to the mini-bus. Around the car park we found red Hawks-beard Crepis rubra and the blue mauve candlesticks of the tassel hyacinth Muscari commosum.
The advantage of being on a guided holiday is that you have an expert on hand to show you the best places and to identify things – illustrated field guides to the Greek flora are hard to find. The disadvantage is that you take pot luck on the weather, and often can’t go back when the weather improves as you’re off to a new place of interest. Well, that means there is something to go back for – more flowers, perhaps higher up the mountain, and maybe later in the season for butterflies, such as the Chelmos Blue which is found only on Mount Chelmos, and flies in late June and July.
A day botanising in Mount Aroania/Chelmos National Park in Greece #botany #Peloponnese #nature #biodiveersity #Chelmost #Aroania Mount Aroania (also known as Chelmos or Helmos) is, at 2,355m (7729 ft), the third highest mountain in the Peloponnese, so it wasn’t surprising that we needed warm weather clothing despite it being southern Greece in May.
