We talked with Thomas Haigh, the head of coffee and roaster at Tate about one of their awesome projects.
TATE 50/50 Gender Equality Project
Our 50/50 Gender Equality Project is a sourcing and roasting approach that aims to recognise both male and female producers on a 50/50 basis by working with and sourcing coffee from male and female farmers throughout our coffee range. The project started a couple of months after I started at Tate, earlier this year; I’ve always been curious as to the lack of female representation of producers on the cupping table and have always wanted to investigate the potential to widen the awareness of female involvement over at origin and balancing out the representation of gender within the market. Tate’s vision, that is the philosophy we run our institution by, holds equality at its heart – not only as a foundation for accessibility of art to the general public but in its staffing and internal ethos. Introducing the Gender Equality Project within our coffee sourcing protocols enables us to realise our stance on equality right through to the acquisition of our products and relationships with producers.
The primary goals of this project is to address the imbalance of female representation within the coffee market, acknowledging male and female coffee producers equally in how we source and develop our annual range of coffees for Tate. We want to develop our house espresso and single origin range with this philosophy at its core and continually investigate the role of women over at origin, developing lasting relationships with the producers we meet along the way. Our aim is to create a repeatable range of seasonal coffees for Tate that showcases the talents and flavour profiles of female and male producers in specific origins, recognising and supporting families and independent farmers as best we can.
So far we’ve worked with coffee from female producers, co-operatives and washing station owners in Kenya, Honduras, Colombia and Guatemala; we’ve discovered that, with a little more attention and focus, it’s accessible and achievable to source amazing coffees grown by female producers continually throughout the year. It’s given our range more direction and has created a backbone in how we look for and source our coffees. That being said, however, we have come to realise that addressing gender equality is often origin-specific and has potential political, social and cultural sensitivities to consider; each origin is vastly complex and has deep-rooted traditions that structure the role of women in the producing environment. I’ve come to realise that, often, it isn’t that women producers aren’t being well represented in the consuming market, it’s that they aren’t being recognised over at origin – as is the case with many producers, coffee farms are managed and run by the whole family and, as the husband usually owns the farm, it’s marketed under his name. This has made us re-evaluate our approach in sourcing coffees and has initiated further investigations into gender equality directing us to not only look at female producers but family producers, researching the traditional roles of the wife and husband at specific origins
This project currently takes shape within our single origin range; due to the smaller volumes and frequent rotation of our singles we haven’t yet had the opportunity to visit these producers, but have been tasting and researching coffees through a collective of importers who are helping us connect with women at the origin. Next year I hope to visit the majority of producers we have been working with the build on a long-term relationship.
I have, however, been over to origin recently to source components for our Gallery Espresso (our house blend) for next year and research our aspirations with this project some more. I spend a week in Brazil and Colombia visiting female, male and family producers to create a new espresso profile that is harmonious both in flavour, but also gender representation. In Brazil I am continuing our relationship with the APROD group in Divinolandia, who we’ve been working with for the past year, and am introducing coffees from two female producers; Leda Castellane Pereira Lima and Cristiane Aparecido Olimpio. We’ll be showcasing these three producers on 2-monthly cycles in our blend, pairing them with two specific family-produced, regional lots from Andino and Quebradon in Colombia. Colombia has much smaller farmsteads so, to create the volume that we require for our espresso, we’ve brought specific Family-focused producers together from these regions to create a flavour profile and a backstory that demonstrates the quality and ethos that we’re all about.
Early next year I’m hoping to continue our investigations at the origin in the search of more gender-focused project for our single origins and espresso for late ’17.
Who does the project benefit and how?
I feel that our project is accessible and has many benefits within it; not only are we attempting to support female and male producers directly over at origin, but we’re also focusing on the family environment too, speaking for the whole family, and not just the husband, when looking into sourcing our coffee. All producers and importers that I’ve met during our journey so far have been really receptive to our aspirations; not only can we focus on the financial benefits for the producers we work with, but we hope to instigate a broader conversation as to the role of both women and men in the industry, at origin and in consuming countries. I hope this will instigate a change in the way we approach gender in Specialty Coffee and create a platform in which we can speak about the accessibility of the industry to both men and women.
I’ve always been a big fan of some of the women in the Specialty Industry; there is some incredible talent within our industry here in the UK and we owe an awful lot of the development of Specialty coffee to these women, and I wouldn’t be where I am without their help and support. I think, during my recent trip to South America, the industry wouldn’t be able to function without women’s involvement. Coffee farms, at certain origins, are hugely dependant on the hard-working women who work there; they not only look after certain agricultural and processing aspects of coffee harvesting but also keep the homestead in check, managing the household, cooking for the pickers and workers employed there, often taking on financial management at the same time. They are immensely inspirational and play an intrinsically role within the industry. It’s been a real eye-opener to approach coffee in this sense and has really changed how I approach coffee on the cupping table now. I know that there are some key movements within the Industry acknowledging female involvement, and we’re really happy to be a part of that here at Tate.