May 30
Every time I think I've seen or heard peak innuendo in climbing, something comes along and shows me how wrong I was.
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Every time I think I've seen or heard peak innuendo in climbing, something comes along and shows me how wrong I was.
GOLD MEDAL NUMBER FIFTY 🥇🐐
hii!!! I came back ages later but I'm here! I also really like Jakob Schubert bc he's so old (in comp climbing terms) but his love for the sport and his growth still continues; it's obvious that he is as good as he is because he is just so happy doing it! Did you see Ai Mori got a perfect score at the Japanese national boulder competition this year? Better than all the other boulder specialists! Insane! I think she's been practicing jumping. Maybe when she's older she'll be more comfortable traveling abroad and we'll see her at more international bouldering cups. I am very much looking forward to the new World Cup coming up this weekend (or wtvtf we're supposed to call them now...world series...something something lol)
And did you see what happened in the most recent women's bouldering cup??? no spoilers but something momentous as;dfljkasfjfd
Hello again!
Yes!!! I saw she also won both the lead and boulder at the Asian Beach Games. I was so happy for her!
I did see the latest boulder cup (in Keqiao?)! It was pretty exciting! I was meant to be studying for my exams but no work got done for the duration of the women's final, I was too invested.
It was an interesting round and set of scores with the way the boulders were set, and it was so cool to see Zelia win her first world cup! Impressive how she was able to be so consistent across the round as well as send the last one which looked insane! And props to Janja for dealing with the pressure and making bloc 4 look easy. I'm delighted for Zelia taking her first win, and also so happy for Oceania Mackenzie who of course finished third!
On the men's side I enjoyed watching the final too, Sorato and Mejdi looked strong as always! I loved the beta breaks on bloc one, that's always super cool to see. Dohyun Lee's shoulder mobility was crazy!!
Did you catch the lead series event in Wujiang? That was pretty exciting too (no spoilers).
I'm looking forward to Bern this weekend!
Trailer for a documentary about four of the Olympic athletes in competition climbing, which I’m excited about because I love comp climbing and in particular I love these four women: Janja Garnbret, Nonaka Miho, Brooke Rabitou, and Shauna Coxsey.
women's boulder final innsbruck 2026 we will forget you so quickly
Does the boulder that defeated everyone but Caitlyn in this latest chapter have a real world counterpart. I'm always fascinated by beta breaks.
Vibes-wise, the central section is inspired by the initial coordination move on boulder one from the women's boulder finals in Keqiao 2024.
That boulder's start is much easier, the coordination move is shorter, and from the zone to the top is kind of a gimmie, but the vibes of Janja simply campusing across slopers is what I've stolen.
Camilla Moroni and Zelia Avezou both do the sequence by-the-book. Erin McNeice starts working up a really cool semi-static start that generates momentum after the first move, but she doesn't have time to figure it out. (I'm certain Erin would nail this boulder now. Keqiao was her first finals.) Zhilu Luo changes her hand sequence halfway through which is a great demonstration of how an athlete can change coordination sequences around. And Anon Matsufuji does a pretty standard attempt of the standard beta that doesn't go anywhere.
Janja comes out last and does the patented Janja thing where she makes a boulder look like the easiest thing in the world. She campuses across, the commentators say "wow" and laugh, and the whole crowd "oooohs" as she does the sequence in ten seconds and finishes the boulder in fifteen.
I love the delighted exasperation that comes with watching the GOAT. You know she's the best, but you're still caught off guard when she's just that good.
congrats on five straight sorato!
Mao Nakamura (JPN) celebrates with her teammates Miho Nonaka and Futaba Ito after securing her first Boulder World Cup medal at the age of 25!