Sealing blushing with brush-on Mod Podge
In response to a query about how I use Mod Podge, I’ve posted a couple of threads about the process here and here when I first started experimenting to protect airbrushing on joints. I'm still trying to nail down the perfect method, whether to slightly thin the Mod Podge with water, but if you're not on DoA to see the threads, the basic process is:
1. Paint your project and seal with MSC
2. Dilute Mod Podge Matte slightly with a couple of drops of water and apply in long strokes with a wide, flat brush. Let each coat dry before applying next coat. You want three or four coats.
Showing the consistency after slight dilution. If you dilute too much it won’t have any protective effect.
Don’t overload your brush though.
You want to use long, slow strokes of the brush from top to bottom, always in the same direction. You can see some brush strokes in the layer below but they disappear when dry if you’ve diluted the Mod Podge. If you haven’t diluted, you may end up with some texturing. Still experimenting on whether to dilute or not dilute, and which gives best protection.
After applying three or four layers, allow to cure for 1 month minimum before stringing. (Mandatory step! Do not skimp on time!) You can see there are no visible brush strokes on these pieces (the white lines on the petal are watercolour pencil)
Suede the joints fully to protect your work. Don’t allow Mod Podged surfaces to be in contact with each other, as they’ll stick together and chip if left long-term. Protect right to the edge of the joint with suede (not hot glue), even if the suede is slightly visible in the joint.
I encourage everyone to experiment with the technique and help hammer out exactly what works best! Mileage may vary. Mod Podge is water-based and can be easily removed by scrubbing with a toothbrush in hot soapy water, even years after application.
