#effect parts

[jaybuilds]

You can either eyeball a circle, or just find something to trace. Black holes really aren’t a perfect circle- or at least, the areas around them aren’t.

I went over one side of it a couple times with Tamyia Clear Orange. After it dried, I went around the edge a couple times with a clear red. Try and get a fade going, while still trying to make the center look round.

For this next bit, I used Tamyia Smoke(or any clear black/brown/etc, if you want) and I applied it pretty thick in the center, then I kinda’ just swirled the paint around using my fingers until it had a desired shape. Try to make it look like it’s got a spiral. After it all dried, I cut a series of teeth into the edge; I figured it would look like it’s got movement to it-

Now just cut a hole into it for wherever you plan to attach this, and your done!

I know I’ve mentioned in the past how I did similar things with sheets of clear plastic, but frankly custom effects are pretty fun to make.

[jaybuilds]

I had found these pearl stickers a while ago, and they remind me of the ‘regulators’ found on mobile suits from Gundam 00-

The larger ones fit perfectly inside this segment of Shining Gundam’s legs; you can go over them with sharpies/paint markers/etc if you need them in other colors, and it doesn’t ruin their initial glossiness-

Part of why I’m mentioning this is because looking through craft/hobby/etc stores/isles/etc for things like this can yield little details/etc you wouldn’t expect otherwise.

[jaybuilds]

This beam part, honestly, just looks fairly weak and unimpressive. So let’s revisit that method I used for my Titus, shall we?

Using a sheet of clear plastic, I cut this shape out. I had to glue small squares to the tabs I cut out to thicken them- Tabs required sanding afterwords to get them to fit into there desired slits.

Tamyia Florescent Pink + High Gloss topcoat gives you something like this.

I made another.

Now that they can be tabbed in and are colored appropriately, THIS actually looks silly intimidating

And that’s how they were made~

[mysticdragon3md3]

I was so excited for these Moderoid Effect Parts, ever since they were announced at WonHobby. I'm a sucker for translucent special effects accessories.

I had been wanting to collect Bandai's Tamashii Effects, but they were always like $22+ and stores never had the color of lightning I needed---until I found the Bandai Figure Rise Effects. But I haven't seen another store since then, carry any Figure Rise Effects. So I was so happy that Good Smile Company, which I'm already comfortable buying from, announced these Moderoid Effect Parts.

But now I just realized, "What if these are like $20 each?" I can't do that. If I'm saving my budget for Nendoroids (and Figma), I'd rather have more new characters in my collection, than special effect accessories. No matter how pretty these are. ;~; These are really pretty... ;_______; Thankfully, these are only $15 each. But as a completionist, I'd want all 3, and that totals into $45. That's a whole Nendoroid right there. ...I can't afford these. ;_____________;

Now I really wish I had bought that $5 second-hand Tamashii Effect "Burning Flame" from that guy at the PMX swap meet. Back then too, I was so stingy with my budget that I didn't even want to spend $5 on some fire effects that would have looked GREAT with my Revoltech Sanada Yukimura! Or my Nendoroid Sanada Yukimura! ;o;! But I kept telling myself that I needed to save my money. ;-; I told myself that I should make my own special effects. I'm a polymer clay sculptor; I have resin and mold-making silicone lying around, waiting for me to try for the first time. I should sculpt and cast/mold my own special effects parts. It'd be a great first-resin project. So I saved my $5. And now it looks like I'll have to save $45 from these Moderoid Effect Parts. ;_; ...Even though they're really pretty... ;~;!!!

Picture source: https://twitter.com/GoodSmile_US/status/1413332851743940609

[jaybuilds]

Cut a C shape into a square of clear plastic so you can spraypaint it with clear/glossy coats. After drying, reevaluate the size of the hole/you may have to cut into it to widen it.

The hole should be large enough for the bottom half of the beam lariat to fit through. You sandwitch it between that and the other half of this effect part.

Cut several edges/shapes/etc around the beam lariat. Don’t worry about them being perfectly cut.

This is optional, but I used a pink highlighter around the edges of mine. Regardless, here’s a breakdown of how I did this, for anyone wondering/wants to do it themselves.

[sir-phobos-boa]

Effect parts for Midnight Sworder!

[sir-phobos-boa]

Skittles goes fast!

[kdauz27]

A little look as to how I did my flame effects:

I used twist ties, from various packaging over the years, as the ‘frame’ or main structure; feel free to use whatever works, you can even use paperclips as long as it’s flexible. 

I then applied different layers of hot glue; first to thicken the piece and then afterwards sculpt and texture the flame parts. It works better if you use a glue gun on low heat, I just unplug mine and work from there since it only has a single setting (improvise!)

So thicken > base sculpt > add texture to cover up any shoddy work :P

(of course give enough time to dry between each step, but it’s hot glue so it works fast)

The sculpting part is where you got to think, especially when making those individual flame spikes. I use a mixture of gravity and cold air to get the glue to my desired shape (i usually have a fan but in this case I used my own breath). Hot glue tends to do that thing where it gets all stringy as you pull away so be mindful.

For the texture, I especially have the glue gun unplugged/on a lower heat. I add a dab of glue, then use the gun to sculpt lines or wave work throughout the piece (like i said, it helps cover up shoddy work)

As for the paint I used tamiya clear orange and yellow. I would suggest these or something similar since they bring out the translucent look for energy effects the best; they have a very watered/thinned down consistency so it’s  a matter of having paint that compliments the sculpt rather than cover it up.

The steps I go about it is by first coating each piece thoroughly with clear yellow and after that dries, apply the orange to your own discretion. It just depends on how you want it to look.