Some gastronomic experiences in life are carried with you forever. They are those unexpected trips to a restaurant where you’re expecting something good and you’re served a religious experience in the form of a cheeseburger.
It was one of those experiences.
For numerous reasons, our trip to San Antonio, N.M. had been put on hold several times in the weeks leading up to it. When we finally got it together and headed down to the now-famous Buckhorn Tavern, the desert could barely contain our excitement. We drove in silent anticipation an hour south of Albuquerque to the one-street town on NM Highway 380.
Upon arriving in San Antonio, before the GPS can even be pulled out, you see the sign for the Buckhorn right there on the highway, next to a tiny log building and a parking lot packed with cars. It is a long awaited and happy sight.
The Buckhorn Tavern is a slice of the Old West, set aside and preserved for all the cheeseburger lovers out there who would like a side of authenticity with their meal. A sign just inside the door lets you know that, although the Buckhorn is a burger joint, it is not fast food.
As we waited we read the numerous articles on the wall boasting of the Buckhorn’s achievements – and there are quite a few of them. The menu proudly states that GQ Magazine named the Buckhorn Burger seventh best in the country. Photos and banners from the famous Throwdown with Bobby Flay episode (in which the Buckhorn beat the world-famous chef) seem to be the most prominent of the memorabilia adorning the walls.
As we were led to our table, we were giggling with childish excitement. Once seated, chef and owner Bobby Olguin walked by – floor shaking as he passed – while we reverted to childhood and stared at him in awe as though he were Santa Claus.
The menu was full of items like chili cheese dogs and burritos – something to satisfy every hungry stomach – but we, of course, were there for the one and only Buckhorn Burger.
Our order consisted of two Buckhorn Burgers (green chile, cheese and the usual garnish), taco burgers, fries and one Rio Grande Special (a plate of fries complete with ground beef, red chile, beans, lettuce, tomato and cheese). In other words, afternoon food comas were imminent.
After a few minutes of sipping on our Tecates, five Styrofoam plates of San Antonio’s finest were delivered to us.
Let us preface this by saying the burgers at Buckhorn should be served with lots of napkins and a box of tissues.
Beyond the mouthwatering balance of heat and flavor contained in the roasted green chile, our eyes were watering from gratitude and thankfulness. The big man himself came over to ask us about how we were enjoying the burgers – all we could do was look up at him and apologize for not being long-time regulars of the place.
The Buckhorn’s burger patties are composed of an 85/15 mix of ground beef Bobby purchases and has ground each morning at San Antonio’s local supermarket. Olguin has perfected his method of cooking the hand-portioned burgers to ensure they are thick enough to retain a euphoric juiciness that doesn’t leave you with a soggy bun.
It seemed as though the burger was constructed bite by bite, ensuring the perfect medley in your mouth. Lettuce, tomato, pickle, onion and mustard are in a happily harmonious proportion to each other, complementing the patty and lightly toasted bun. Each taste was like a bit of New Mexico served lovingly on a bun.
As the end of the meal approached and we regretfully got ready to head back to Albuquerque, we stopped once more to talk to the chef. We thanked him for his talents, we shook his hand, even hugged him. The tears in our eyes were accompanied by smiles on our faces and laughter from our bellies. The Buckhorn Burger gets a ten-star rating. There was not a single element about the burger that was not delicious.