When Tristan and I got married some years ago, my parents didn't attend our wedding. My mother wrote to say they couldn't, for theological reasons. The week of the ceremony, she emailed to say she was praying for good weather. Then, some months later, she emailed to ask if she could come visit us in New York. Actually, that's not quite accurate. She wanted to know whether I might like her to "come and cook a dinner for you for your birthday." She hadn't been to visit in years, not since Tristan and I moved in together. She'd met him only once, and that meeting had been incredibly awkward. Food is the language my family speaks when Cantonese, English, and Chinglish all fail us. We can say with food what we can't with spoken words. As a kid, on the too-common occasions when I got in trouble with my dad at the dinner table for talking back, my grandmother would just spoon another favorite dish onto my plate. This is how she showed her solidarity. This was also her diplomatic way of suggesting that I just shut up and eat. [...] Food is the thing we can always talk about when we have nothing else. If I'm at a loss for something an always ask her what she and my dad have been eating. And I can always ask--genuinely, because I always want to know--how to cook a particular dish of hers. Through food, my mother says things she can't in words. Sometimes a box will unexpectedly arrive on Tristan's and my doorstep. Inevitably it's packed with food: cans of abalone she has brought back from Hong Kong; dried scallops and dried mushrooms she worries I am too cheap to buy myself; preserved ginger, which is good for expelling gas and soothing coughs; bags of dried apple slices, made with fruit from a friend's trees, which she has sent regularly ever since I told her Tristan loves them. When my mom arrived in New York to cook that birthday meal first things she did was to pull a gift out of her bag: an antique pair of ivory chopsticks. Everyone in our family has a pair, inscribed in red with our names. These were for my husband. My mom told him it was my job to figure out where to get the inscription done. I reminded her it was also her job to help me come up with a Chinese name for the white boy. Years later, I can tell you, she still hasn't. But we have those chopsticks.
Jeff Chu, Good Soil














