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Most formal outfits for upper ranks samurai - Sokutai and Ikan formal court dress
(as worn by upper-ranked samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".
The Sokutai
束帯 Sokutai is the most formal attire worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above.
It first appeared during Heian era as a ceremonial court dress worn by 公卿 kuge (nobility/Imperial court) and 殿上人tenjôbito (courtiers/court officials). Usage was kept well into Edo period by both the Imperial court and the Tokugawa shogunate.
The intricated garb includes:
冠 Kanmuri - hat, with distinctive 垂纓 suiei "tail" hanging in the back. Materials could include silk, lacquer or horsehair and were strickly regulated
袍 Hô - a round-necked robe with large boxy sleeves. Colors and patterns were strickly regulated.
Shown here is a pattern used by the Shôgun, the 葵に丁子唐草 Aoi ni chôji karakusa (cloves with arabesques, and hollyhock leaves - which is the Tokugawa crest)
笏 Shaku - flat ritual sceptre
平緒 Hirao - a wide flat braid wrapped around the body with ties left hanging up front. Colors and weaves were strickly regulated
(飾)太刀 (Kazari)-Tachi - (mock) long sword for ceremonial use
表袴 Ue-no-bakama (or omote-bakama) - white overpants, shorter hakama pants worn over the aka-ôkuchi
赤大口(袴) Aka-ôkuchi(bakama) - red underpants, a tad longer than the overpants
下襲(の裾) Shitagasane(no-kyo) - visible train part of an inner robe worn under the 袍 hô. During Edo period, train lenght got up to 1丈 (around 3 meters/10 feet).
襪 Shitôzu - a type of ancient socks (construction is different than tabi - they don't have a sole for ex.)
石帯 Sekitai - leather belt used in ceremonial court dress, covered in black lacquer, and decorated with stones and jewels
The Ikan
衣冠 Ikan - while still very formal and worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above, ikan looked much more simpler than sokutai.
First used for nightime duties (夜間宿直) in Heian era, it gradually came to be worm during daytime too. From Muromachi period and onwards, it had become the work uniform of the Imperial court.
Like sokutai, it uses the hô+kanmuri, and wearers were allowed to carry kazari-tachi. Yet, note how the pants differ from sokutai ones: those are large bouffant pants called 指貫 sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama).
You can also note that wearer here is not holding a shaku scepter: it's a folded 檜扇 hiôgi (formal folding fan made of cypress also of Heian history. Those were unpatterned as painted ones were for women).
[ID: a reference sheet of an uncommon protogen with two sets of ears back and front views. star is standing with cer left food and right arm raised, left hand limp, and has navy blue fur with red paws and stomach. sols hair is in a sidebraid with curly bangs and alternates between the same red and pink. puls visor shows a face resembling a closed-eye smile with a heart-shaped nose, and gels shoulder screens show a circle with two lines coming out of it vertically and two arcs on both sides, resembling a transmitter while novas thigh screens show a heartbeat monitor. between the two is a small drawing of neb sitting, holding jupiter in novs arm while looking up to the left. above is a full show of lyras banded leonian-esque tail with a puff of red and pink fur at the very end and caer geometric diamond backpack. at the bottom is a stylized writing of av name, hirao, the "o" colored in to represent a black hole. next to it is the color palette used as well as the words "astrobiologist - space neopronouns" written above. to the very right is a box containing the shoulder screen symbol. /end id]
realized i never posted hiraos ref sheet. star explores black holes and far reaches of the universe looking for signs of alien life.
本日木曜のフロータンは昼・夜と2回営業があります。 12:30-15:00LO 18:30-21:00(20:30LO) 夜営業のときだけ、店内にお香を焚いています。 京都で300年の歴史をもつ松栄堂さんの白川というお香で、まあるくて深みのあるそれはそれは良い香り。苦手な煙っぽさもなく、残り香もまた夢心地にすばらしいのです。 キャンドルの灯りとともにくつろぎのお供になれば幸いです。 のんびり過ごしにいらしてくださいね。 repost @cojun78 暮らしはじめてまだ半年だから、いろんなお店を開拓したい気持ちもあるけれど、結局いつも同じお店へ。 なんだかんだで、身近に片手ほどの気に入ったお店があれば充分みたされる◎ ㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤㅤ #すきなお店に入り浸るタイプ #木曜よるの仕事帰りのおたのしみ #きょうも今日とて語りの癒し #floatan #curry #hirao #fukuoka (at フロータン floatan) https://www.instagram.com/p/CHL4rFVlWEt/?igshid=1xp9qbg9rhu0z
Hirao, Yamanouchi, Shimotakai District, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
April 2018
sum badges + hirao re-redesign. 3rd times a charm
【木曜🍛12:30〜21:00🌙OPEN ⚠︎休憩17:00〜18:30】本日は週に一度の夜営業!夕方しばし休憩いただきますのでご注意ください。 志賀高原ビールから夏にぴったりの“KASUMI”が昨日再入荷しました。わたしも大好きなこのビール、柑橘を感じるホップの爽やかな味わいが残暑疲れにじつに沁みます、、この世にビールがあってよかった! 本日ものんびりとご来店お待ちしております。 Repost @nonatagi . ものすごーくわかりにくい場所に ひっそりとあった 穏やかな、ほんわかした女性の 心地よいお店 . パパドゥが見た目にも味にもアクセントになる チキンとひよこ豆のカレーのあいがけ . 平らなスプーンが実はすごく食べやすい . 今回は諦めたけれど志賀高原のビールも美味しそう🍻 . なので夫と再訪したい😆 . . #instafood #instagood #fukuokacurry #hirao #平尾グルメ #カレー (フロータン floatan) https://www.instagram.com/p/B1cXdAhlMT6/?igshid=1el4zhk42f5vy