AMAZING reference chart put together by Nadeshico Rin, showing the different attires worn by the men of the buke class in and about Edo Castle. OP stresses the chart is by no means exhaustive - but it helps picturing things SO MUCH!
For easier reading, I have adapted the chart with english translation. Rin has also created illustrations detailing each attire, I'll translate those in coming days under the tag "samurai kimono".
Introducing another edition to the annals of Far Eastern fashion, straight from the Higuri Regalia’s own master. Bathed in the light of the silvery star in the night sky comes the Sokutai of the Moon!
To the uninitiated or unaware, a Sokutai is a complex garment worn primarily by courtiers, aristocrats, bugyo, and the Lords of the Hingan court. Parts of a sokutai are the shaku, a flat ritual baton or sceptre (a fan is a suitable substitute), and a hat called kanmuri. Sokutai differs from person to person depending on rank and whether the person is a civil or military official.
This particular garment is woven through techniques known only by trained masters of weaving, goldsmithing, and alchemy, manipulating the Hingan fabrics in such a way that it absorbs and reflects light. Fragments of a celestial kimono are interwoven into the cloth which further improves its light-bending abilities.
The biggest prospect, however, is that the Sokutai is an item of clothing exclusive only to males; this is due to the fact that the original incarnation of Tsukuyomi - the deity by whom this outfit was inspired - is male. The scrupulous creation of this piece allows for the cloth to “change color” in accordance to the celestial body’s position.
Another big ticket of note is the halo which levitates on the wearer’s back - much akin to the Divinity of Night. This possesses the same properties of the robes, and is a great indicator as to what phase the moon is in for the Astrology buffs. During the day, the Sokutai is “inactive”, showing a simple black/purple appearance. Once dusk arrives and welcomes the night, however, the aether housed within the Sokutai “awakens” and changes color in accordance to Menphina’s current phase. For instance, during the last quarter moon, the clothing will appear pure white on the wearer’s left side, and pitch black on their right. The halo also illuminates with varying intensity; on a new moon it is dark, and it becomes a bright white during a full moon.
With a golden fan and wig to match (the latter which also possesses color-shifting properties), the Sokutai of the Moon is the ideal pick for a seeker of haute couture who dreams of becoming the evening star.
”輝く月のように…それが異常な、大量殺戮の洪水にならなかったのなら.”
-Written by Shiro Reina, of the Lion Order
The people of the Far East speak of a legendary group of beasts who became beings known as auspices - otherwise normal animals who have lived for hundreds upon thousands of years and have, over time, acquired sentience and sapience. These Four Lords, as they were come to be known, have made themselves known to the Regalia thanks to their Othardian contacts.
The ever-innovative Mythrite Sultan has already devised of a way to emulate the power of these majestic beasts - through a myriad of accessories created from the rarest of materials and gemstones, ideally making these items the most expensive in the entire Eikon Collection.
Unlike the Warring Triad section, the Four Lords are actually parts of a whole; these accessories are worn in various places on the body that allow them all to be displayed evenly. Whether you are a seeker of wisdom, or a symbol of grace, or simply wish to show off your exquisite tastes, acquire any of these items and bring the Far East with you wherever you go!
Most formal outfits for upper ranks samurai - Sokutai and Ikan formal court dress
(as worn by upper-ranked samurai of the Edo period - great charts by Nadeshico Rin). You can find more about samurai ranks and their regulated attires under the tag "samurai kimono".
The Sokutai
束帯 Sokutai is the most formal attire worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above.
It first appeared during Heian era as a ceremonial court dress worn by 公卿 kuge (nobility/Imperial court) and 殿上人tenjôbito (courtiers/court officials). Usage was kept well into Edo period by both the Imperial court and the Tokugawa shogunate.
The intricated garb includes:
冠 Kanmuri - hat, with distinctive 垂纓 suiei "tail" hanging in the back. Materials could include silk, lacquer or horsehair and were strickly regulated
袍 Hô - a round-necked robe with large boxy sleeves. Colors and patterns were strickly regulated.
Shown here is a pattern used by the Shôgun, the 葵に丁子唐草 Aoi ni chôji karakusa (cloves with arabesques, and hollyhock leaves - which is the Tokugawa crest)
笏 Shaku - flat ritual sceptre
平緒 Hirao - a wide flat braid wrapped around the body with ties left hanging up front. Colors and weaves were strickly regulated
(飾)太刀 (Kazari)-Tachi - (mock) long sword for ceremonial use
表袴 Ue-no-bakama (or omote-bakama) - white overpants, shorter hakama pants worn over the aka-ôkuchi
赤大口(袴) Aka-ôkuchi(bakama) - red underpants, a tad longer than the overpants
下襲(の裾) Shitagasane(no-kyo) - visible train part of an inner robe worn under the 袍 hô. During Edo period, train lenght got up to 1丈 (around 3 meters/10 feet).
襪 Shitôzu - a type of ancient socks (construction is different than tabi - they don't have a sole for ex.)
石帯 Sekitai - leather belt used in ceremonial court dress, covered in black lacquer, and decorated with stones and jewels
The Ikan
衣冠 Ikan - while still very formal and worn by Edo period samurai of the 4th rank and above, ikan looked much more simpler than sokutai.
First used for nightime duties (夜間宿直) in Heian era, it gradually came to be worm during daytime too. From Muromachi period and onwards, it had become the work uniform of the Imperial court.
Like sokutai, it uses the hô+kanmuri, and wearers were allowed to carry kazari-tachi. Yet, note how the pants differ from sokutai ones: those are large bouffant pants called 指貫 sashinuki (or 奴袴 nubakama).
You can also note that wearer here is not holding a shaku scepter: it's a folded 檜扇 hiôgi (formal folding fan made of cypress also of Heian history. Those were unpatterned as painted ones were for women).
