#knitting guide

[thecozycuttlefish]

knitting terms to know - a beginner's guide

Don't know your knits from your purls? This beginner's guide to knitting terms will help you with some basic knitting know-how.

If you are trying to learn to knit and have no idea what everyone is talking about I've made a helpful guide to knitting terms that will help you learn the difference between a knit and a purl.

[quozy-knits]

out of pure excitement, here's how the construction of a cuff-down sock works!

keep in mind this is just how I have made socks in the past and how I've seen them in patterns, this isn't the only way to do cuff-down socks :)

I'll also be using a picture I've already posted on here of a fully finished sock to use as a reference.

let's get started!

(very long post under the cut)

psst, ill be including a picture with a color coded section to help explain exactly where on the sock this is :)

part one: the cuff

the most obvious part of a cuff-down sock is - well - the cuff!

this is typically done with ribbing (though I've seen patterns without ribbing like this one), and I've found that for women's medium sized socks it's around 15-20 rows depending on the pattern and the knitters liking. this is one of the sections that's completely up to personal preference, as some like long cuffs, some like short cuffs, and some prefer no cuff at all :)

part two: transition row/s (optional)

some patterns utilize a transition row, especially if coming from some kind of ribbing to some kind of lace. this can help distinguish the cuff from the body of the foot, but isn't used in too many patterns that I've come across.

part three: leg section

stockinette, lace, cables, you name it! unless your sock is coming from your mid or high calf, you're not likely to have to increase/decrease this section at all. for the sock shown below, I stuck with all 66 stitches the entire way through :) (though be aware that some patterns do call for increases/decreases depending on length!)

part four: heel section

4a: heel flap

a heel flap is typically done across half, a third, or a quarter of the stitches used in the circumference of the sock, I prefer a reinforced heel flap (RS slip one purlwise, knit, continue to end of row ; WS purl until one stitch remaining, slip purlwise ; repeat until desired length), but there are many options out there for whatever you'd like!

most of the time you'll be making a heel flap kind of a square shape, working back and fourth until the end of the suggested rows or continuing until whatever length you'd like (though be aware that the longer it is, the more stitches you'll have around your heel circumference!!!)

4b: heel turn

a heel turn is really simple -- you knit until you're a bit past the middle of the heel flap (RS), ssk, k1, turn, slip 1, p however many stitches required (you can make a pointer or a more flat heel turn depending on the amount of stitches you use to begin with), p2tog, p1, turn, slip 1, knit until 1 before the "gap" that is formed, ssk, k1, repeat until you've finished picking up all stitches (you'll end up with less than your original stitch count, don't be afraid!)

by the way, there is this lovely video by heather storta on YouTube that explains all the different types of heels for cuff down, toe up, and after thought socks :)

part five: gussets & decrease section

5a: gussets (light blue)

the gusset stitches are all the stitches picked up from the sides of the heel flap -- when you slip the first stitch on each row, you create a selvage edge that you later knit from and then decrease from at the edge before the top of the foot until you reach your original stitch count! (the gusset stitches here would be at the edge of the green for the heel flap, the light blue is just showing the decrease section from the gussets as well :) )

5b: untouched foot section(??) (blue)

just as the title says, you don't mess with the stitch count of these areas. the top of the foot is left completely untouched, and besides the gusset stitch decreases on the sides of the back of the foot, it's otherwise untouched as well.

part six: the foot

as much as you may think that all of this is the foot, this is what I personally call The Foot Section - the length of one's foot is extremely varied, so this part is very much not something that can be easily standardized. I've found that measuring from the very back of my heel to the end of my big toe (and subtracting the length already knitting + the length of the toe + an extra 2ish cm) helps me get the perfect fit.

knowing your gauge and knowing your measurements is tantamount to having your own personalized pattern, so being if you want to make something that fits, you've gotta measure!

side note : it's normally suggested in patterns to subtract 2-2.5cm from your actual foot length, but always consult the pattern before deciding on anything in particular!

part seven: the toe

finally, we've reached the end! this is, in my opinion, the absolute easiest part of the sock. you're decreasing every other row (typically), which means every row gets shorter and shorter! personally, I get super motivated when I reach the toe section :)

there are MANY ways to create the toe section of your sock -- I prefer wedge ("square") toes, as I find them to be simple and effective. there are also more pointy and more round toes, along with the anatomical toe variation, so play around with what you like!

as shown in the picture below, there is a decrease on both sides of the sock (4 decreases per row, 2 on each side). this is done every other row to create a nice slope that doesn't make the toe too small, but also doesn't leave it as a Huge section of the sock.

anyways, that's about all of my knowledge on cuff-down sock construction! my tumblr is lagging as I'm typing this, too many pictures I suppose?

hope y'all learned something or at least found this interesting, and have a lovely evening everyone!

(also, it won't let me add the video I wanted to, so it'll be left in the comments!)

[crochetmelovely]

How to Buy Yarn Online: Tips & My Favorite Shops

Guide to buying yarn online: http://www.theblueelephants.com/2018/02/buy-yarn-online.html

[bingehobby]

The Ultimate Guide to Knitting Needles

Knitting needles are the essential tools of the trade for knitters of all skill levels. These simple yet versatile instruments come in a variety of materials, sizes, and styles, each suited to different types of projects and personal preferences. Whether you're a beginner just starting out or an experienced knitter looking to expand your collection, understanding the ins and outs of knitting needles is key to a successful knitting journey. In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore everything you need to know about knitting needles, from the different types and materials to tips for choosing the right ones for your projects.

Types of Knitting Needles:

Straight Needles: Straight needles are the traditional choice for flat knitting projects, such as scarves, blankets, and dishcloths. They consist of two long, straight shafts with a point at one end and a knob or stopper at the other to prevent stitches from slipping off.

Circular Needles: Circular needles feature two needle tips connected by a flexible cable, making them suitable for both flat and in-the-round knitting projects. They are ideal for projects with large stitch counts, such as sweaters, shawls, and hats, as well as seamless construction.

Double-Pointed Needles (DPNs): Double-pointed needles have points at both ends and are used in sets of four or five to knit small circumferences in the round, such as socks, sleeves, and mittens. They provide excellent control and stability when working with a small number of stitches.

Materials:

Metal: Metal needles, typically made from aluminum or stainless steel, are known for their durability, smoothness, and lightweight feel. They provide excellent stitch glide and are ideal for knitters who prefer fast-paced knitting.

Wood: Wood needles, often made from bamboo, birch, or rosewood, offer a warm, natural feel and a slightly grippy surface that prevents stitches from slipping. They are popular among knitters with hand sensitivities and for working with slippery yarns.

Plastic: Plastic needles are lightweight and affordable, making them a budget-friendly option for beginners and casual knitters. They come in a variety of colors and are suitable for a wide range of projects.

Carbon Fiber: Carbon fiber needles are known for their strength, flexibility, and lightweight construction. They provide excellent stitch glide and are ideal for knitters who knit tightly or work with heavy yarns.

Choosing the Right Needles:

Consider Project Type: Different projects require different needle types and sizes. Choose straight needles for flat projects, circular needles for seamless construction and large stitch counts, and double-pointed needles for small circumferences.

Gauge: Pay attention to gauge when selecting needle size for your project. Use a needle size that achieves the recommended gauge in your pattern to ensure the correct finished dimensions.

Personal Preference: Consider your personal knitting style and preferences when choosing needle material and style. Experiment with different types of needles to find what works best for you.

Budget: Knitting needles come in a wide range of price points to suit every budget. Invest in high-quality needles that will last for years to come, but don't hesitate to start with more affordable options if you're just starting out.

Conclusion: Knitting needles are the foundation of every knitting project, providing the tools needed to bring your creative visions to life. Whether you prefer the warmth of wood, the smoothness of metal, or the affordability of plastic, there's a perfect needle out there for every knitter. By understanding the different types and materials of knitting needles and considering factors such as project type, gauge, personal preference, and budget, you can choose the right needles for your projects and enjoy a satisfying and enjoyable knitting experience.

[i-belong-to-the-sea-blog]

[shalommandy-blog]

[shalommandy-blog]