Hello! This isn’t a hanfu question but i was wondering if you know what pre-qing/1600s Manchu/Jurchen women’s fashion looked like? or have any pics/sources? tried searching around but there seems to be no english sources covering this? thank you!
Thanks for the question. Sorry that it takes so long to reply.
The short answer regarding the question is, there really isn’t much materials on Manchu clothing before they entered the Shanhaiguan Pass (1644 AD). The Manchurians practiced cremation and only switched to burial in Qianglong period. Hence, there aren’t much artifacts before that. The Manchu clothing only started to be standardized under Nurhaci rule (1616-1626 AD). However, it is known that the Jurchen’s clothing was heavily influenced by other ethnic groups, as they obtained fabrics either by trades or other methods from the Han people and Joseonins.
The Manchu clothing designs, on the other hand, are heavily influenced by the Mongolians, as seen in Jurchen’s clothing that shared many elements with the Mongolians clothing. Manchu and Mongol clothings (the Khorchin Mongols especially) were rather similar even at the later period of Qing dynasty.
Figure 1:Comparison of the Khorchin and Manchu women robes.
Figure 2: The chaofu show clearly that it is not the usual round-collar robe that the Manchurian wear. The separate bottom tied it to the Mongolian robe Jisum (质孙服), while things similar to the ulhun (not sure if this is the correct word. shawl-collar 披肩领)and the waha cuff (horse’s hoof thing) also could be seen in some Yuan dynasty paintings as well.
Later in Hong Taiji period, the official uniform were designed with elements of Han (Ming dynasty) clothing. After the Manchurians entered the Shanhaiguan Pass and into area predominantly occupied by Han Chinese, they also incorporated many elements of Han Chinese, especially the auspicious motifs.
The Jurchens originally worn robes with the right lapel over the left lapel (zuoren), but based on my very little observation, I think by the time of Later Jin (i.e. before they officially called themselves Manhu and Qing dynasty), wearing the left lapel over the right lapel (youren) was rather common. They usually worn a round collar robe (sijigiyan ᠰᡳᠵᡳᡤᡳᠶᠠᠨ), often lied with fur. The characteristic cuff type is the waha ᠸᠠᡥᠠ (箭袖jianxiu or 马蹄袖 matixiu – sleeve shaped like horse’s hoof), which can be foled up. On top of the robe they could wear a jacket such as olbo ᠣᠯᠪᠣ (马褂)or a sleeves vest(坎肩)The robes could be accessorized with belt, small purses and scarf. In the Later Jin and early Qing-dynasty, the women and men robes were very similar. One could wear a skirt called huusihan (霍锡罕), but it was gone from the wardrobe relatively quickly after the Manchurians entered the Shanhaiguan Pass, and it seemed to be only remained as part of the chaofu.
Figure 4: Empress Dowager Xiaozhuang in Changfu常服. Apparently it was rather rare for women to wear this type of robe without a jacket.
They usualy worn with leather shoes lined with Carex meyeriana (乌拉草/靰鞡草) called hvwaitame sabu (strape shoes, but in Han Chinese it is referred as wula xie靰鞡鞋 – came from the name of the grass foyo orho). Boots came later.
Both men and women braided their hair (men shaved most of their hair). Men worn hats (many types). Women wear many ear rings. Men could wear one on each ear when young.
记法国国家图书馆中一本很厉害的满文字典——服饰篇(一),记法国国家图书馆中一本很厉害的满文字典——服饰篇(二) Some notes on some clothing terms in the Manchu language.
从满族传统服饰变迁看满族文化观_王忠欢 Talk generally about different types of Manchu clothing.
清代满蒙女子服装研究_赵琦 Comparison of the Khorchin and Manchu clothing.
清入关前朝服考_王业宏 Talking about early chaofu - with pictures.
清前期皇室及贵族服饰研究_刘菲 The most detail thesis of all, and talk about individual pieces, and lots of pictures as well.
I hope this answer some of your questions. There probably are much more info in printed books and other resources. I know next to nothing about Manchu clothing. If anyone have more info on this feels free to add on. Perhaps @audreydoeskaren would have more information. Thanks in advance.