Where: ‘Marsco’, Sligachan, Isle of Skye. October 19, 2019.
Travelling through the Highlands in October requires you to be ready for any possible weather event. Sometimes, all in one day. The day we walked up Marsco certainly put our bodies and minds to the test.
After a few days of solid rain, we had watched every Netflix special and Ted Talk we had downloaded. No matter the weather, we were hell-bent on a day-long walk before we headed back to the mainland. We sat at Seamus’ Bar and spoke to a couple of locals who suggested the Marsco walk for its relative ease in wet conditions and high view-to-effort ratio. After a few pints and a quick look at some maps, we decided to set out the next morning at 9am.
We rolled out of bed (as was the only way to get out of the cramped space in our van) an hour early, packed some lunch and a few extra layers and made ourselves some coffee. Then we spent three hours waiting for the rain to pass. When it finally did, we set out from the Sligachan campgrounds.
The walk begins in the centre of Sligachan and the path deviates to the foot of Marsco.
The first part of our journey (now starting at 11am) alternated between spitting rain and glaring sunshine, culminating in this awesome rainbow.
Right after I snapped that shot, things got more difficult. We battled icy wind and unprecedented boggy ground (which we should have expected, but we’re Australians and still used to ground that dries instantly). On three separate occasions, I completely lost my boot in the mud and had to wash it in the mountain stream pictured below.
After a windy lunch break, we crossed the river to the right of the path and arrived at the foot of the mountain. It wasn’t until that moment that we realised just how difficult this ascent was going to be in the conditions. I felt Determination and Apprehension fighting like a devil and angel on my shoulders until my determination executed a perfect choke-hold and we proceeded.
The route is easy to find, marked by star-pickets all the way to the summit. However, it is not so easy to climb in the conditions. It is chossy, therefore dangerously slippery when wet.
It took us a good 2 hours to ascend the mountain with caution. We met another climber en route who was covered from her head to toes in mud. Apprehension reared its head again but we were determined to take in the views we had been promised the night before. Little did we know that we would be returning to the van in the same state as the passing climber, perhaps worse, as the sun set 3 hours later.
Remember when I told you that we had been recommended this walk for the view-to-effort ratio? Well, here’s what we saw from the summit initially:
ah,yes...the summit of Marsco
I was heartbroken to say the least. We had walked for a combined 3.5 hours to see nothing but mist and unable to stand straight on the summit for fear of being whisked down the mountain by the unbearable winds.
The mist began to clear and took my breath with it! I could hardly compute the vistas being revealed before us.
Climbing down Marsco was more difficult than other descents I’ve made in Scotland. Both of us slipped multiple times and I came away with a minor knee injury from overcorrecting after a fall.
It didn’t take us so long to get back, but I would recommend allowing 7-8 hours for the entire walk. We really had to pick up the pace on the flat walk back to town, as we were chasing sundown.
Please allow yourself an entire day for this walk. Not only is it long, but it is tiring and the views from the summit warrant a picnic in the right conditions.
Most of the walk has phone service, but make sure that somebody knows that you will be ascending the mountain and when to expect you home.
Bring enough food and water, spare socks and a few extra layers. Make sure you have a light with you whenever you undertake a walk. Better to be safe than sorry.
Expect everything, Sligachan often experiences every season in a day.
Pop in to Seamus’ after your walk for a delicious meal and a pint or several. They have a lot of great vegetarian and vegan options and most of their whiskies and beers on offer are locally made.
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Where are your favourite places to walk in Scotland? Where would you like to see me write about next?
Please send me any ideas or questions you may have, I really appreciate the feedback!
