#merrior

[live-book-posting]

There are about a thousand examples of the Baudelaires growing up too fast. From book 1 it's been an uphill battle and nothing ever seems to get better.

What Violet says her is like an off-handed thought. They move on to something else in the next paragraph as if it is just a fact of the world that Count Olaf is someone that no one will do anything about

[row34nh]

In our pre-sinner service briefing, we blind-tested and speed dated to find out white wine match.  MC also handed this out as we discussed table side wine descriptors.  

For those of you who are never, we have a similar tool for oysters from Pangea Oysters from a past post:

Oyster Flavor Wheel http://www.pangeashellfish.com/oyster-flavor-wheel/

[row34nh]

Tuesday with Jess- Oyster Briefing

Jess from ICOF came in on Tuesday this week to do an Oyster Education briefing.  We discussed two oysters we have had before and will be seeing again soon, Ichabod Flats and Warren’s Cove, both hailing from Plymouth, MA.  It was great to taste both of these oysters again; this time side by side for comparison.  It is a reminder that even in the very same town, grow methods along with subtle changes in merrior can produce two very different flavored oysters.  

Icabod Flats (Growers: Don Wilkenson & Sean Withington).                             

Last time we tasted these oysters as a group was on 11/2015.  What a change!                       

Tasting notes by our group on 11/2015 were:                                           “Medium brine at most.  Very savory, with a predominant chicken broth flavor and a hint of mushroom”.  

Group tasting notes on 3/1/2016 were:                                                         “WAAAY more salt upfront than last time we tasted!  Still followed by that familiar chicken broth flavor and even a little more mushroom present than before”.  These babies were far more briny than any of us remembered ever having tasted them in previous tasting. 

Warren’s Cove (Grower Jim O’Shea)                                                                 

It’s been over a month or so since we tried these last as a group. These oysters were pretty consistent with the last tasting.  Last time the staff found these guys “briny and full of meat”.  They didn't disappoint this time, with more of the same profile but this time around giving us hints of some slight (but not like a Peter’s Point for comparative purposes) vegetal notes on the end. 

Looking forward to these oysters making re-appearances on our oyster list.  

In the meantime, here is a great article/slide show featuring Ichabod Flats that even includes a shot or two of our sister restaurant, Row Boston http://smallbusinessrevolution.org/story/ichabod-flat-oysters/

And a great tidbit about Warren’s Cove and Jim O’Shea from Pangea http://www.pangeashellfish.com/warrens-cove-oysters/  

Remember, Eat All You Want.  We’ll Grow More.

[row34nh]

Introducing the Pangea Oyster Flavor Wheel

This Oyster Flavor wheel by Pangea is genius! Such a great way to really break down flavor profiles when tasting oysters. We spend a lot of time discussing how “briny” an oyster is, or how “vegetal”, but this is a great tool to take it one step further.

Why we created a tasting wheel

Sometimes it's difficult to describe or even distinguish the taste of one oyster from another, so we wanted to create a tool to help people reference what they are tasting. Like wine, oysters, are greatly influenced by their environments, so they express a lot of that "merroir" through their flavor. There are many flavor wheels in the specialty foods industry (e.g. wine, coffee, and cheese). Some are definitely more complicated than others, but they all try to do one thing, which is to help the taster explain or map nuances in flavor and aroma.

What makes our wheel different

When we created this wheel, we wanted to make sure it was comprehensive, but also approachable. We didn't want a mash of words simply in wheel form. Instead, the wheel is meant to be a map that guides the tasting experience from start to finish.

We believe that texture is a huge component in describing an oyster's flavor profile and have dedicated a good portion of the wheel to that category. In other wheels, smells before consumption have been emphasized, but based on our experience, it's hard to detect more than an oyster's refreshing ocean smell (unless it's a foul oyster, in which case you shouldn't eat it). Texture, or mouthfeel, can range widely among varieties due to the oyster's species or growout method. Therefore, we wanted our wheel to have a sufficient number of descriptors in this area.

How we define taste, texture, and finish

Taste can only be five things: sweet, salty, bitter, sour, and umami -- the "protein" taste. Our perception tells us we can taste more than this, but if you were to plug your nose while eating, you would only be able to detect these five things. It is only when we open up our nose, we are finally able to experience the changes in our mouth, also known as the aroma. We can tell the texture of what we are eating through chewing. Chewing creates friction and heat, which intensifies the aromas that are being experienced. When the bite is finally swallowed, some aromas may linger for some time or dissipate slowly, rounding out what we call the finish.

How we chose the vocabulary

With Bekah's skills as a chef and plenty of research, we went through a lot of oysters. We noted different tastes from our own oysters; we looked through Oysterology® information from our vendors; we looked through our weekly interoffice tasting notes; there was a lot of online research; and we even shared it with experts from other specialty foods industries. In summary, the words were pulled from many resources to create a succinct and descriptive wheel. This is the first version of the wheel, so as we learn and taste more, the wheel and its vocabulary will continue to evolve. How to use the wheel Start with the taste section. Make sure to note the oyster's salt content by using a brine scale of 0 to 5 (0 being no salt; 5 being full ocean salinity). Follow the wheel clockwise to note its texture and finish. An oyster may have multiple attributes in each section, so make sure you pay attention!

If you encounter an unpleasant oyster, faults are built into the wheel. The wheel does not explicitly call out faults because it is subjective, so we include it in the wheel to let the taster to determine for herself.

Tasting Tips and Suggestions

When you do get to your tasting, consider the suggestions below to ensure a complete flavor experience:

Do not discard the oyster's liquor. We see many oyster eaters who do this, but if you lose the oyster's brine, it will be hard to identify its salt content!

Chew the oyster 3 to 4 times. If you throw it back like an oyster shooter, you will completely miss evaluating its texture and much of its aromatic finish.

Have a palate cleanser between oysters. Water is always a good option, but alcoholic beverages or crackers work well too.