#millennium items

[mothwaistcoat]

Sorry but this is the funniest moment in Yu-Gi-Oh I don't make the rules it just is

[autumnal-blues]

"Is that fear in your eyes? I like to see this side of you."

Continuing my millennium item series, The Millennium Rod!🩸👁️

[charlesoberonn]

The Millennium Key is the worst Millennium Item because it doesn't even have the eye symbol that all the other items have. That's just a failure in branding.

The Millennium Eye is the best Millennoum Item because it functions as both a cursed magical item as well as the Millennium logo brought to life. It's the Millennium Item equivalent to Mickey Mouse ears. Excellent branding right there.

[millennium-shitpost]

whoa i just found this super cool ancient egyptian artifact while wandering around

on an unrelated note, does anyone know where i am and why i'm bleeding

[deathandnonexistentialdread]

have you tried turning your Millennium Items on and off?

[make-aspectacle]

Thank you @wisyhana for the spicy Thief King Bakura x Akhenaden commission!! 🤤

[skldoestuffsanddraws]

The millennium items…

[ravij]

TKB(??? +) and Prop Updates

So it was a rather gloomy yet comfortable evening to tackle some sanding of the 3D printed Millennium Items I got from @rosalind-hawkins

I predominately worked on some of the Millennium Rod which was surprisingly easy to work with compared to previous work on the Khopesh hilt. (I attempted to tackle the Ring but.. uuh.. we're gonna hold off on that) When it comes to sanding 3D projects you absolutely DO NOT need to sand the entire surface unless you're a masochist. Primer will fill in the subtle printed lines but what you need to work on is the parts that would undoubtedly take MULTIPLE fillings of primer to disappear. For example the back of the Millennium Rod's Spherical upper attachment. You can see the remnants of the center here that I've sanded down.

As well as miniscule raised surfaces that do not belong on the print itself as you can see this line I've smoothed out.

Once sanded properly these malformations MAY look like you'd be able to feel them but rest assured they are very smooth and will disappear into the projects initial primer coats.

For lines like these though? A few coats of previously mentioned primer will fill these in nicely and all you have to do is maybe follow up with a tiny bit of soft sanding to blend the surface nicely.

My primary focus for the rod though was smoothing out the 'sharp' contours of the wings. These were a lil more pronounced initially but I wanted a a lil smoother transition along the surface area.

And as for the actual sharp edges? Smoothed those out as well.

The unfortunate casualty though is the Rod's dagger tip did break off a lil more during its first sanding but its not bad at all and will be hardly noticeable. Probably safer this way as well. (Sorry Yamima, you get a slight handicap.)

3D print sanding tip though? For fine edges such as blade tips and sharp edges (like the Millennium rod's outer wing edges) Sand in one direction instead of a vigorous back and forth/side to side sanding motion. You will get a smoother finish on these. Also wash your 3D prints after every sanding session. AND AS ALWAYS WEAR A RESPERATOR FILTER MASK WHEN DOING ANY AND ALL SANDING PROJECTS! Over the next few days before the weekend I'm going to try to tackle the rest of the items and then scour my local home improvement store on Saturday for a better primer than Rust-o-leum Primer for plastics because that shit is NOT sandable after it's been applied. Ruined a few sanding bits for my Dremel after 2-3 coats of this crap on a Leshy Mask. Ravi Out!