Westminster Abbey
So yesterday I went to Westminster Abbey. Yeah, the place famous for sometimes our really rich “important” people do stuff there. It cost £30. It was effectively my birthday present, so here’s a sort of review/experience/thing.
Westminster Abbey from the entrance
The main quire (yeah, where the choir sits)
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Tomb of Elizabeth the First
Stained glass windows from the Chapter House
Pyx Chamber (one of the oldest parts of the abbey)
Coronation chair
I took so many more photos though. Might share some of the prettier ones.
First of all, there’s a free audio tour. When you enter, you’re given a little tablet and some headphones. This is the first time I had seen something like this. I know other places I’ve been to have audio tours, but you have to download an app and have your own headphones. Which I don’t super have. So this was nice, and the tour came in a bunch of different languages. I found it really informative and made a big difference. I actually knew what I was looking at without having to buy some guide or whatever.
That said, it didn’t tell you everything.
So there are tons of famous people buried at Westminster Abbey. Some of them you’ve heard of, some of them you haven’t. Most of them are noted by grave markers on the floor, almost all of which you can walk over. The only one you can’t walk over is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which I thought was quite nice. But at the same time some of these markers are so old, and the abbey has been visited so many times that the text is really worn down and hard to read sometimes. There were so many markers that I simply could not read.
Sometimes it was really easy to miss a famous marker. One of the first you come across as you follow the flow of the tour is Charles Darwin, but nobody else around me even seemed to notice him as we walked around. Isaac Newton, however, did get a lot of attention, because he also had a statue, so that was nice.
There is really so much history in this building and I’d have loved it if there was a special guide for true nerds. I paid £30, I want to know everything, not just the highlights. (And if there is one for it to be super obvious). For example, I’d gone through a list of graves at the abbey beforehand, and I knew that George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham had a tomb here and had that on my checklist (Yes, I watch Jack Rackam, yes “Am I right Villiers?” is part of my vocabulary). I think maybe there are two people visiting the museum a day that care about someone like this random duke, so I get why it wouldn’t be pointed out on the general audio tour, but it would be nice to have a detailed tour for people like me.
Anyway, getting ahead of myself. So you follow the path around to the Quire, High Alter, and Cosmati Pavement. Giving myself away as someone fascinated by royal ceremonies (I wouldn’t call myself a fan of the royal family, I just find the ceremonies interesting), but it was cool looking at places and being like “oh I recognise this from the wedding” or “oh I recognise this from the meme about the Queen being vulnerable to an attack from the Bishop”.
You go around the shrine to Edward the Confessor, which you cannot see. That brings me to another point. You are not going to get good views of most of the tombs of medieval/Tudor monarchs. For Eddie, the tomb and area surrounding it is so old and delicate (according to the audio tour) that it’s not accessible to the general public. Which I understand. It’s like a thousand years old, it’s kind of wild that we can go around the building at all. It would have been nice if there was a way to view all of this from above. Of course, this is still an active church, so constructing a second level walkway would be pretty hard, especially, again, because this is a thousand year old building and construction work can’t exactly just be done. You have to balance the preservation to being able to put things out on display in any museum and I’m glad it’s not my job to decide.
Other than old Eddie, you can see the tombs of, say Queen Elizabeth I or a bunch of Henrys, but they’re all very high up. Some of the oldest ones are so high you have to look up even to the base of them, while Lizzie you can’t really see the tomb effigy clearly. Or I couldn’t, but then I’m not that tall. This isn’t so much a complaint as a thing you should be aware of. You’re probably not going to be able to get a photo like you see online, unless you bring a selfie stick (which you’re not supposed to do according to the website but people definitely did).
You then follow through the Ladies chapel, where you have in a side chapel Elizabeth 1st and the corner of the innocents (or something like that). Basically a place where royal children were buried. And (drum roll) the skeletons of two children found at the Tower of London. Duh duh duh!
Are these the Princes in the Tower? Well the audio guide gave a definitive yes. You wouldn’t even know there was any debate about it, as simple as saying Elizbaeth and Mary 1 were in the chapel too. But we don’t know. There hasn’t been any testing and we don’t know that they’re the only kids to have died in the tower (ok, we don’t even know for certain they did die in the tower but, like, I don’t know for certain there’s water in my toilet right now but I’d be shocked to find out there isn’t). So it was kind of weird that the audio tour was so “yes, that’s the princes in the tower, moving on”.
Anyway, back around to Poet’s Corner, where there is a memorial to William Shakespeare and a bunch of other writers. This is where the audio tour ends, but you can carry on to the cloisters and some of the oldest parts of the building. Again, the history nerd in me wishes the tour had carried on.
Back into the Abbey, you see the coronation chair (the one for crowning a king, not for watching Coronation Street) and then out into the overpriced giftshop.
Just before the exit, there is a place to write a prayer which will be said in the Shrine of Edward the Confessor, and a place to light a candle. I did. Maybe that makes me lame. I’m not a CoE christian but hey, if I write asking for a prayer for people hated for their race, religion, gender or sexual identity then at least the person who has to read these reads it and maybe thinks about it for a moment. I can’t change the world, I can change a moment, you know?
Anyway, it’s a really pretty building. If you’re interested in medieval architecture, or tomb effigies or British (mostly English) history this was really interesting. And you will get some nice photos if you’re half decent with a camera (I am not).
There is a museum but that’s £5 extra. Yes, I did already pay £30 to get in and I could have splurged an extra £5 for the museum but a) I didn’t have that money and b) I kind of didn’t want to on principle. I already paid a tonne of money (to me). I didn’t want to pay more. And there were signs asking for donations to add something to celebrate the king’s coronation or something like that. And I just… nah.
Accessibility
Oh boy.
Ok, so they do warn you ahead of time and on the audio tour that the floor is uneven and to be careful. I only tripped once (which is a miracle for me, maybe there is a god), but I also have my super grippy shoes.
Worse than it being uneven are the steps. There are some parts of the building that you cannot access if you cannot go up steps. These include the lady’s chapel and some of the side chapels. There are also some narrow spaces. It’s a lot like All-Hallows-By-The-Tower. I understand this is a 1000 year old building and Confessing Eddie wasn’t thinking about “oh I have to make sure a wheelchair user can go here”. They apparently weren’t even thinking about handrails. But it just sucks. On the upside, tickets for “registered disabled” visitors are free. On the downside, “registered”. I don’t know exactly if they’re checking. Like, could a foreign tourist in a wheelchair get a free ticket even if they’re not on any local registers? How visible would that disability have to be before they’re like “yeah go ahead”? So once again, worth checking ahead.
The audio tour does have a BSL version, according to the website, which is cool.
And now, the thing you have been waiting for - seating!
Honestly I thought the level of seating available was pretty good. There mostly isn’t much seating around the shrine and lady’s chapel areas (although there were definitely people sitting in places they weren’t supposed to be), but there was lots in the main part of the building.
So that was it. Would I go again? Maybe if I got a lot richer soon. It was worth £30 for the one off trip, but when you consider there are places like the British Museum and National Gallery that are free, I think there are better ways to spend your money in London if you’re on a budget. I wouldn’t say I regret it, but next time I’m looking to spend birthday money I won’t be like “should I go someplace new, or should I go to the Abbey again” (Tower of London, I want to do Tower of London next).


















