(In the Western-European context and history) The Latin, memento mori roughly translates to “remember you must die”, or “remember death”. Dating as far back at the 16th century, memento mori jewelry were designed to remind wearers of their mortality, with designs that incorporate symbols of death like skulls and crossbones, coffins and snakes. With turbulent wars, rampant diseases, and unstable church and government establishments, the only constant was death. But death should not be feared -- deeply rooted in Christian belief of judgement and sin, these items were statement reminders for the living: informer wearers to live a well, and virtuous life. With print, the Bible became more accessible, and individuals were able to seek personal connections to God at home and not just at Church. As well, the extravagance of wealth and gold accessible to the aristocrat, royal, and clergy led to many commissioned memento mori jewelry and expensive pieces.
That’s not to say that this ideology and symbolism was exclusive to the upper-class. Re: Pirates and the Skull motifs in the 16th-17th century: “The idea behind the use of memento mori in art and literature was variously interpreted throughout history, although during the Golden Age of Piracy, it generally meant that people should not become attached to the things of this world because they would eventually die and pass into the next world, leaving everything behind” (src).
Memento mori jewelry could be seen as a precursor to 18th and 19th century mourning jewellery, becoming much more personal and intimate pieces. Unlike memento mori jewelry, these were for the dead. That is, to commemorate the death of a specific individual. Initials, obituary dates, poems and locks of hair could be tucked into rings, bracelets, brooches and lockets to act a token of remembrance for those mourning the loss of a friend or loved one.
Torre Abbey Jewel Pendant, c. 1540~1550 from the Aspects of Age Exhibit in the Victoria and Albert Museum
Enameled Gold Pendant, c. 17th century from the Wernher Collection in the English Heritage Ranger's House
Marriage and Mori Ring, with the inscription 'BE HOLD THE ENDE' and, 'RATHER DEATH THAN FALS FAYTH', round the edge with initials and a lovers knot, c. 1550~1600 from the Aspects of Age Exhibit in the Victoria and Albert Museum
Diamond Skull Agate Locket, c. 1860~1880 from Laurelle Antique Jewelry
Stock Pin with Pearl Skull, c. early 19th century from the Victoria and Albert Museum
Skull Coffin Pendant with the initials I.C.S. above its head and the inscription 'HIE. LIEG. ICH. VND. WARTH. AVF. DIH' (Here I lie and wait for you, in German)., c. 1660 from the Aspects of Age Exhibit in the Victoria and Albert Museum
