Nose: Marc-Antoine Corticchiato
notes: chamomile, eucalyptus, lavender, broom; hay, cumin, pollen, mushroom; musk, styrax
Oeilleres has a wonderfully sharp, herbal-dry opening. The chamomile + lavender have a nice tea-sachet feeling, and the whole thing is tingly and buzzy and earthy. The eucalyptus gives a sweet-sharp camphoraceous aura around the “outside”.
A few minutes in, the cumin stage is a warm, subtly rusty aura, not very skanky. I definitely get a dense, dusty-yellow pollen-and-dried-grass effect. It all blends together seamlessly into one hazy hum, a true "skin scent" or extension of your being.
Oeilleres is a lot like classic 70s chypres like Mystere and Aromatics Elixir, but without the high contrast. No black oakmoss or smoky incense; no rose; just the subtle middle notes of dry herbs and cumin and musks, in shades of golden brown and rust. I like this strategy of “zooming in” on one subsection of a classic perfume: it's monochromatic in a wearable, modern way, but richly complex in texture.
Of course, Oeilleres is catnip for me — I have a special place in my heart for chamomile, and I’m obsessed with bitter-herbal and musky scents in general. Might be worth buying a bottle someday.
Easily unisex; wearable for anyone with a yen for the autumnal or earthy.