#rubini

[odoroussavourssweet]

Rubini Idilios

Nose: Cristiano Canali

Notes: mandarin, bergamot; osmanthus, champaca, coconut, peach; vanilla, musk

Yep, that's coconut! It's a sheer but very legible coconut-water note, refreshing and summery, with some peachy-fruity touches as well.

Coconut in perfume usually has a trashy beach party vibe, due to its associations with suntan lotion and tropical cocktails; but Idilios is actually fairly sophisticated. We may be at a beach, but it's a private island, and our drinks are made with fresh coconut, not Coco Lopez.

I might also be able to smell the champaca, as a swoony tropical floral note blending with the peach (and peachy osmanthus).

Within 3 hours, it's very faint, just a hint of light coconut and a more vanillic sweet peach.

Apart from the poor longevity, Idilios is lovely. Easily my favorite coconut scent yet.

[odoroussavourssweet]

Rubini Odenaturae

Nose: Cristiano Canali

Notes: berries, tomato leaf, bitter orange; chamomile, mastic, thyme, angelica, laurel, basil, clary sage, hyssop; woody notes, orange blossom, immortelle, broom, rose

Odenaturae opens with an odd, flinty, abstract dry scent, and then goes into dry savory herbs. It's almost a bouquet-garni effect; this is what you're roasting your chicken with.

In general I'm not fond of foody fragrances *or* of extremely dry gray ones, and Odenaturae is a bit of both.

Then, it goes a touch more anisic-medicinal and bittersweet, more like the kind of herbs I enjoy, but still sitting on a dust-dry base.

Eventually the base wins -- a bit of pleasant bitter dryness, a bit of dried sweat, a familiar landing place in classic 70s scents like O de Lancome. This part is actually rather nice. Civilized and comfortable. Feels like being in the shade of a sculpture garden on a hot summer day. As time goes on, it gets more and more satisfying.

But IMO there are lots of herbal scents that do a similar thing without Odenaturae's musty, unpleasant off-notes -- Grimoire comes to mind.

Apparently it's marketed as a green evocation of nature, inspired by Virgil's odes. But it just isn't green! It is grayish tan. And it doesn't evoke nature to me, more like dried kitchen herbs and stone walls.

Luca Turin describes Odenaturae as an anisic fougere inspired by Brut, which makes it pop into place for me. The dusty sweat under bittersweet herbs makes sense once I realize it's a fougere. But this isn't a scent genre that often works for me -- fougeres tend to be too explicitly masculine.

Maybe Odenaturae is worth trying if you have chest hair... and a little patience.

[odoroussavourssweet]

Rubini Fundamental

Nose: Cristiano Canali

notes: bergamot, mandarin, soave grape; iris, clary sage, lavender, beeswax, labdanum; leather, vetiver, cedar, cacao, sandalwood

Rubini opens with an unusual, tangy, realistic white wine note, and then goes into a dusty, lightly spiced, soft tan woody scent, maybe a little honeyed or touched with summer wildflowers.

Then it dries out substantially and goes more purely woody, while retaining that warm fragrant quality amid curls of smoke. Not a pencil-shavings "cedar" but a rich, ruddy, precious wood with a contemplative incense facet. I suspect there's real sandalwood in this.

The white-wine note comes back to the fore next, this time blended with the honey, and starts to meld nicely with that warm cedar-sandalwood core. I get just a hint of warm, dry lavender -- I think of bees buzzing over a summer meadow -- as part of the overall golden effect.

Finally, it settles back down to that dusty, softly-spiced wood chord from the opening; a place of rest and reflection.

Again, I'm getting a sense of Cristiano Canali's recurrent themes. He tends to do syrupy & rich floral sweetness, "cut" with something grounding. In Bee and Civet it was honey and amber (respectively) cut with animalic musks; in Romanza it was narcissus cut with oakmoss; in Tambour Sacre it was sweet tuberose cut with coffee. In Fundamental it's honeyed white wine cut with fragrant woods. Honestly I love every variant on this theme. Always satisfying, never excessive.

I'm a big fan of Fundamental. It's highly original (what else has a white wine note?) and it may have become my favorite sandalwood-forward warm-woods scent of all time. More modern than Bois des Iles, more unisex and drier than Trayee, more complex and subtle than Canfield Cedar. Fundamental is a rich, honeyed, nuanced take on sandalwood that feels wise and worldly rather than straightforwardly cuddly or cozy.

[odoroussavourssweet]

Rubini Tambour Sacre

Nose: Cristiano Canali

notes: cardamom, orange, bergamot, white pepper; coffee, tuberose, acacia, cinnamon; myrrh, sandalwood, tonka, cinnamon

What a fascinating, original accord! It opens fresh and spicy, somehow both cool and warm, with a vibe that reminds me of a sunny glass atrium opening out into a sculpture garden.

Then we get sweet nectarous tuberose, almost golden or orange, with a roasted coffee note beneath. It's a weird combo but it works! Perfectly smooth from top to bottom, as though tuberose had a coffee facet already.

It's meant to evoke Ethiopia, which I wouldn't know about; to me the coffee smells of the fresh-ground beans at the grocery co-op of my childhood, while the tuberose smells of a brilliant summer day with rich flower scents on the breeze.

I love tuberose, and part of the fun is that there are so many different takes on it. Tuberose can be green and stemmy (Nuit de Bakelite), bright-pink and ultra-feminine (Fracas), sleek creamy white (Carnal Flower), or root-beer brown (Tubereuse Criminale). Tambour Sacre is a wholly original and enjoyable addition to the tuberose lineup: rich, sweet, golden, and anchored in spices and dark roasted coffee beans.

I'm increasingly a fan of Cristiano Canali as well. He has a lot of range -- also did Masque Milano Romanza (one of my favorite spring florals), Zoologist Bee (a delightfully skanky honey), and Zoologist Tiger (a wonderful dark smoky musk). If he has a signature quality I might say it's balance. Sweetness or floralcy is always balanced with just the right amount of darkness or muskiness, and the results are addictive.

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RUBINI PROFUMI

Launched in 2015, Rubini Profumi Founder and Creative Director Andrea Bissoli Rubini and his carefully chosen collaborators have created a b

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Narni e il turismo: la formazione è fatta su misura

Sono iniziati a Narni i corsi di formazione gratuiti DigiTrails per gli operatori del settore turistico-ricettivo. I corsi, promossi dal Comune e organizzati in collaborazione con Confapi, prevedono 50 ore totali di lezione su comunicazione digitale, social media, inglese per il turismo, accoglienza per persone diversamente abili ed elementi di storia narnese funzionali all’accoglienza turistica…

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