#sewing without a pattern

[allisonreader]

So I have a project in mind for these. It verges on quilting, but it's going to be a skirt.

Eight inch squares, at an angle. Though it will probably still be awhile before I actually sit and make it.

[ninetimesbluedemo]

Fear me, I’ve just sewn a deerstalker

[katruna]

[katruna]

60 minutes to make a VINTAGE dress with NO PATTERN? Let's test it!

I do enjoy a good marketing gimmick, today's find is the "Sew Without a Pattern" book that claims each garment only takes ONE HOUR to make.

[cosplaytutorial]

Hey, sorry to bother but do you have any tips for someone who wants to try sewing without a pattern?

Personally, I support patterns for beginners because it instructs you step by step in how to create a garment but it also teaches some other things: The basic building blocks of clothes (if you sew shirts a lot you can probably visualize the shape of a one piece sleeve right now), where you can add length and the function of darts and where they might belong, and grainline direction among other things...

So I suggest using patterns until you have a basic understanding of how things fit together and work but once you are ready to move on there are a a few different ways you can work without commercial patterns.

Using other garments as guidesThis is a simple way of creating your own pattern to work with, based on clothing you already have in your closet. You inspect the seams and understand how it was constructed and then trace the parts onto paper or mockup fabric. Add your seam allowances and make any modifications before cutting it out. There is a tutorial with more information here.

Duct Tape PatternLike duct tape dressforms, this method involves making a body double. There are different methods for doing this: wrapping with just saran wrap, wrapping with saran wrap and duct tape or wrapping with paper tape, but the end goal is the same. The final body double can then be cut up and used for a pattern, though you may want to grade it up / make it larger for a looser fit and remember to add seam allowances! This is a tutorial for making a saran wrap pattern. 

Creating a Pattern Block / Sloper and Building on ItThis is a really basic mockup that fits you perfectly, which you can then build upon to create more unique pieces. This is a pretty good guide.

Pattern DraftingCreating a pattern block involves drafting, but the above was more of building a basic shape that can be build upon. While you can draft shapes to be built upon you can also use them as-is, should they fit. This method involves using measurements (from your body or your block) to draw out your garment. This is a sleeve tutorial. This is a hood tutorial. This is a circle skirt tutorial. 

DrapingYou're probably like "urgh, not all this math stuff. I want to do it like they do on Project Runway." Okay, then you're probably looking for how to drape! This guide gives a little outline on the process. It's basically pinning the fabric to your dress form and sewing it as needed. It requires that the dress form be very close to, or exactly, the size of who is wearing the garment. 

Hop this helps you out! Keep in mind that all these processes involve muslin mockups so you can play and fix issues without damaging your good fabric. (Awesome sewing followers, If I missed a technique or you have more to add, please do so!) 

[capiscion]

As I'm tailoring this coat to fit me perfectly I'm coming to the conclusion that I've got a banging body