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Friday 6th February 2026

Our 2 nights were up in Elliston and following precise instructions prescribed to us by our landlady, we evacuated our chalet leaving it in a condition she might have dreamt off; clean, devoid of rubbish and rubbish bags, towels in the shower, air-conditioning off, appliances unplugged, and lights off. Doors locked and we were not longer a liability to her. All she needed to do was bank the money! Perhaps rather late in the day, we called into the tourist information place in Elliston for a few ideas for our journey to our next destination, Coffin Bay, at the bottom of the Eyre Peninsula. We noticed that there was an old cemetery associated with this place, way out on a wild and woolly headland, and being on our way out, we thought we ought to pay our respects to the departed. A more desolate location might be hard to find. There were purported to be some quite influential folk of their time whiling their eternity in there. Sadly it was very overgrown and neglected. Martine slowly making her way across the scrub grass felt something move under feet and emit an alarming hiss. A large, fat lizard called a Shingleback lizard was snarling up at her. About a foot long, fat, stubby tail, large pink open mouth and tongue, surrounded by needle sharp dental work. The are omnivors feeding mainly on plants, insects and snails. Given the choice of fight or flight, it chose the former, Martine chose the latter. Leaving the cemetery and its guardian and wishing him well, we stopped at a memorial to the victims of the Waterloo Bay massacre in 1849. I would guess it was the old story of pioneers overreacting to having spears thrown at them by aborigines. As a result, many of the indigenous population were killed. This monument was to go some way to recognise this tragedy.

We rejoined the Eyre Highway which was to take us all the way to Coffin Bay, our home for the next 4 nights. Our route took us along the stunning coastline and our first call was to Locks Well Beach. The biggest challenge to the settlers here in this region, but also further afield in Australia is of course lack of a fresh water supply. Elliston was drinking rainwater saved in vast tanks by each house. Even this does not keep pace with rainfall versus water usage. One place we came through had had virtually no rain since last August! Some have had to have water delivered to refill their tanks. Although part of this region is wheatbelt, there are also immense areas where it is so dry, it is a truly hostile environment, where nothing will grow, and there is little sign of wildlife except perhaps the resilient Shingleback lizards. Lock tried his luck at a digging a well, but it didn't succeed. We followed the track to the rugged cliffs and a lookout. The coast here is absolutely stunning, with rocky outcrops, waves pounding into hidden coves, with secluded sandy beaches. And the coastline is like this all the way down the peninsula. It is beautiful in the extreme. The main problem is access to these beaches. We tried to reach Sheringa beach, but we had to traverse a 4 mile unsealed road, which was fine for the first mile; hardened compacted gravel, but under storm conditions this can be easily washed away. The rest of the road had been hardened and ridges applied across the carriageway causing violent shaking and vibration, such that we feared important components might fall off the Toyota. Some hardened 4WD drivers let their tyres down to 16 psi to make the ride smoother. We took the other easy solution, we turned back thinking our rental company would not approve of this sort of mileage!

Carrying on further down Flinders, we came to the Lake Hamilton Eating House. This was a lovely old stone croft style building built some time before 1857 and used as an eating house until the 1880s by travellers coming through in horse drawn coaches, along what would have been an extremely arduous rough track. Opposite is Lake Hamilton; a beautiful but useless lake since it is salt and no use for drinking. Our destination was getting closer, but one more destination was necessary; a memorial to a 21 year old, Leo Cummings who died tragically in 1959 on a crayfish expedition. All other lives were saved thankfully. The memorial was at a pinnacle overlooking the sea that ultimately killed Leo, high up and commanding such fantastic views in all directions, with the salt lakes inland.

We made it eventually to our latest shack in Coffin Bay. Coffin Bay reflects so many of the small towns we have come across so far on the peninsula, from Ceduna, downwards. It seems developers are eyeing them up as opportunities to buy old shacks and replace them with waterfront villas for tourists. These places are sadly destined to change and the nature of the quiet backwaters they currently are, will instead be desirable resorts attracting loads of holiday makers. Hopefully this will not happen too soon.

A schooner or two at the yacht club, and it was home for dinner and SB.

We shall enjoy it here I feel.

ps. 4 kangaroos have just hopped past our house.

RIP Len Cadby.

His funeral at home is today at 13.00. We shall raise a glass to my much loved uncle tonight.

The Shingleback lizard or Tiliqua rugosa

The Lake Hamilton Eating House

The rather short jetty in Coffin Bay

Kangaroo outside pur house tonight

#6th February 2026 #Coffin Bay #Shingleback lizard #Elliston

Animal of the Day!

Shingleback Lizard (Tiliqua rugosa)

(Photo from Los Angeles Zoo)

Conservation Status- Least Concern

Habitat- Australia

Size (Weight/Length)- 45 cm

Diet- Insects; Flowers; Leaves; Carrion

Cool Facts- Upon first glance, you may mistake this lil’ man for a pinecone. The short tail of the shingleback lizard is meant to confuse predators as it closely resembles its head. Once these skinks find a territory, they spend their entire life there with their mate. Being monogamous, shingleback lizards are one of the few reptiles to not only have livebirth instead of eggs but both parents help in caring for the babies. The pair’s offspring will stay relatively close to their parent’s territory and create loose family groups as a result. Their burrows can sometimes interconnect and create massive underground systems of generations of skinks.

Rating- 13/10 (Oh yeah, and their tongue is blue.)

Animtober- Match (Monogamous for life.)