/Texte 292 - fake Marilyn Deep Fake Tara Subkoff The Hole, NY
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/Texte 292 - fake Marilyn Deep Fake Tara Subkoff The Hole, NY
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Texte 292 - fake Marilyn
Tara Subkoff Deepfake The Hole November 5th _ Pourquoi je me sens si bien parmi ces gens. Est-ce à cause de ce jeune rouquin à casquette qui semble sortir d’une peinture de Norman Rockwell. Ou cet autre jeune, brun, cheveux ébouriffés, skate au bras. Ou cette rouquine d’environ 22 ans, cheveux courts, mince, à grosses lunettes, aux Big mocassins blancs des années 60, qui semble sortir de chez pas où, pour aller je ne sais pas où, mais qui fait étape à la galerie The Hole comme elle l’avait programmé depuis son studio situé dans le quartier. Bowery! Ben, elle a l’air bien sympa, elle aussi. Et le jeune avec qui elle cause, stylé « rock », casquette posée sur sa touffe brune, je pourrais aller lui demander chais pas quoi. Tellement qu’il a l’air gentil, il ne me prendrait pas pour une débile malgré mon anglais de merde. Et ce trentenaire, plutôt petit, casquette de marin avec des strass, capuche du pull par dessus, il voit que je trouve ça chouette, il me sourit, je lui souris. J’aurais été en La Bambina on aurait fait un selfie, on aurait discuté de Los Angeles que je vais bientôt visiter, que dis-je, pénétrer! On aurait échanger nos idées et nos mails. Et ce monsieur d’environ 65 ans, qui passe à côté de la pianiste en montrant avec son tel SATIE écrit en gros alors que c’est du Debussy, Clair de Lune précisément. À chaque fois que je l’entends je pourrais crever sous la grande émotion, c’est ce son que je veux quand on m’enfournera, c’est sur ça que je je veux redevenir poussière. Mais tu vois, ce mec aussi il a l’air sympa même si il se goure il le fait humblement, simplement. Tout le monde diffuse des étoiles, des arc en ciel et des cœurs dans cette galerie. C’est une écurie de ce genre qu’il me faut. Chez Jeffrey Deitch c’est un peu cette ambiance aussi. Y’a bientôt un Opening ce sera l’occaz’ de comparer. C’est La Bambina qui vérifiera. Dans cette galerie la bienveillance prime. Ça fait du bien. De toutes façons, les New Yorkais sont bienveillants. J’aime être ici. Faut que je gagne du fric, parce qu’il est hors de question que je ne revinsse pas. Tara Subkoff, joyeuse en robe fluide rosée erre parmi les performeurs et les visiteurs avec sa petite fille, danseuse de claquettes. Gloire aux arts vivants! semble clamer Deepfake. Choper d’ici-delà des émotions qui nous appartiennent. Une Marilyn sublime qui fait face à un miroir déformant, me stimulera énormément. Je l’observerai comme pour trouver des réponses à mes nombreux questionnements? À quels moments la fake-Marilyn est-elle la plus proche de la vraie? Quand elle prend la pause pour être photographiée? Ou dans ces moments transitionnels entre ces différentes pauses? Nano secondes où tête baissée, les yeux regardant le sol, il semble possible de percer des mystères de Marilyn, de la performeuse et de moi-même l’ayant incarnée à Carcassonne, à Albi, à Art Basel Miami Beach, à Toulouse et ailleurs. Ne cesser de filmer la fake pour accéder à la vraie. Même parmi les gens, derrière un menton, un iPhone, un cou, un coude, une main, la capturer. Les autres, et cela ne concerne que moi, ont assez peu d’écho en moi, je raffole peu du cirque, j’apprécie de les voir bien sûr, mais ça ne me transcende pas, en comparaison à Marilyn. Qui me fait délirer total. L’étrange bruit que font les pas des performeurs sur le revêtement plastifié argenté, ça fait comme un bruitage drôle qui ajoute au « fake ». Y’a un décalage sonore : le pas est fait, le bruit vient après, c’est la bulle d’air qui pète en se recréant après avoir été écrasée par les poids des corps se déplaçant dans l’espace. Ça c’est top. Genre le détail qui tue.
#imitationofchrist #2003 #repurposed #deconstructed #reconstruction #chloesevigny #tarasubkoff #vintagedress for #acainthebay #acurrentaffair #june17th (at Replika Vintage)
nyfw: imitation of christ
(images via ny mag)
depending on whose review you read, the spring 2012 re-launch of tara subkoff's imitation of christ label was either the follow-up to a real fashionie knot-tying (for model lydia hearst, at bottom), or simply staged as a twenties/thirties exhibition that resembled a wedding. but no matter. we're here to discuss the clothes and, considering that these were reconstructed vintage pieces, it was in multiple ways quite a shakeup to the norms at new york fashion week.
as style explains, "(t)he prevailing look was dressed-up Depression-era, with lots of pastel lace bias-cut dresses and drop-waist chiffon florals, plus occasional forays into flapper silhouettes." with models dressed up to resemble (or perhaps they really were) bridesmaids, flower girls, and revelers of all kids, wwd was correct in asserting that "each look had its own personality," giving one a bit of a feeling that the links between retaining your (slightly aged) pieces of the good ol' days and trying to forge ahead a fashion path in the days of so much deprivation was a stronger point than the designer simply shaking a vintage shop for whatever pieces of around a ten to fifteen year period might fall out.
the pieces themselves were described as "'tea' dresses in pastel and dusty colors adorned with flower and bird appliqué details," by the ny post. and though feelings of the jazz age heydey (i'm wondering if we're not due by now for a resurgence of those styles) were tempered by the occasional aforementioned more austere thirties silhouette, it was hard not to appreciate the romanticism and stunning detail that went into even the simplest of clothes some three-quarters of a century ago.
style, however, wasn't particularly convinced of the show's merits, nor its place in the nyfw lineup, sniping at one point "(o)n some items it was hard to discern what renovation had been done, while others, like a beaded flapper dress, looked made from scratch" (given their derisive tone, it would be difficult to view the latter as a compliment), and later commenting "But what Subkoff is up to here isn't quite art for art's sake. It's more like craft for craft's sake, which is a perfectly noble pursuit, but one that didn't necessarily square with the pomp and circumstance of the presentation."
of course, that's all a matter of perspective, and how important it might be for a designer to re-introduce historical costumes as valuable contemporary fashion (not to mention, part of a recycling effort) is debatable. many of the fashionies wouldn't necessarily see it as such, not the least because vintage pieces render much of their work...well, i suppose i'd like to see how a modern dior garment measures up to one of the pieces from the forties, but perhaps that's debate for another time. suffice it to say opt found ms. subkoff's work both an diverting lesson and innovative idea for the week.
another point, of course (and here one can imagine the mainstream press none-too-impressed once again), was on the charm the show exuded in including 'real' people among the models. if there were some professionals (including the bride, below), with the variety of races, ages, and body types, one certainly got a different image from the standard catwalks, and something i've long advocated--the display of how good clothes could look on 'regular' women. like chloë sevigny's oc resort 2012 show, this helps us to imagine what the pieces might look like on us, rather than teenagers, stretched and pulled beyond anything we are. all of which was just too real for the likes of style. i get it. but perhaps for those of us complaining we never see these things, ms. subkoff's show would be a chance to celebrate...and tout to other designers as a positive example.