An ‘Un-Sustainable’ fashion chat with Alexandra Carl
Tell me a little about yourself and career so far and your involvement with sustainable fashion..
I began styling by the age of sixteen.. I had been modelling for some years and that’s how I grew my knowledge of the fashion industry. I was also studying film and psychology so modelling was never a career, it was just a way to gain inspiration and knowledge of what later should become a large part of my life. I got the opportunity to work at DANSK magazine next to my studies and was quickly given the opportunity to style my own projects for the magazine. When I graduated I moved to London, started assisting at LOVE and then met the guys from RIKA magazine where I’m now fashion director.
My involvement with sustainable fashion comes from a natural interest and also an increasing awareness that something needs to be done. In Scandinavia we started the fashion summit and there is a big effort in recycling clothes various ways so that’s probably where my awareness comes from – it’s like heritage. I have been involved with charity foundation Oceania and working along side a new generation of designers in London who were producing from dead stock or recycled materials, giving them new life. It was so incredibly inspiring to see how these young designers brought such passion to work for a better future for the industry, for our planet.
So you have a strong interest in sustainable fashion working alongside the charity Oceana and for some time I have been aware that something needs to change in the fashion industry but research into this has left me with more questions than answers. What do you believe needs to happen within the fashion industry to help raise awareness of sustainable fashion so the industry changes?
Our industry is moving so fast, so many collections are being produced on yearly basis I doubt that the consumer can even keep track of things. Garments hardly get to hit the shop floor before they go on sale – we dump more than 300,000 tons of clothes each year just within the UK, which blows my mind. However it’s not awareness I think we need to raise – people/ the consumer and designers are completely aware of the challenge of the environment with fashion being one of the most polluting industries in the world. It is not the awareness that needs changing it’s the action. I realised working with the young designers how amazing their effort and eagerness was and we need a new generation to demand change. However change needs to happen from the top decision makers of the high street emporiums. It’s not the small designer who produces 1,500 garments a season that puts pressure on the environment but the factories producing 15,000 synthetic t-shirts per hour.. it is here consumers “buy to throw away or buy to wear once” – and it is this mentality we need to change. We need to encourage better productions so that recycling of clothes is optimised and we need to educate the consumer (as stylists and trend makers) to not just buy for this months or this seasons trends but actually look for key pieces you might want in your wardrobe for the next year at least.
H&M are on the fore front of the field introducing sustainable production of 17% (at the time of interview) of their garments from next years which is for that scale of production a huge amount! If other high street brands don’t follow the government should imply regulations – just as they do for the beauty industry.
My research for this project has allowed me to really recognise how resource intensive wasted wardrobes are to the environment and the world. How do you apply sustainability to your own practice at work? Does this also affect your own wardrobe and buying habits? And how has this changed over the years?
I don’t mean to sound like a total sceptic towards high street fashion - I think as a concept it’s a brilliant idea to bring fashion trends to all levels of society! Everyone should be able to feel good in what they wear and realise their style. I work with brands like H&M and have done projects with their Conscious Collection.
However, when it comes to my own wardrobe I don’t often go shopping because I'm always surrounded by clothes at work – I do invest in a few pieces each season, which I know I will have for years. Most of the time they’re heavier garments like well tailored coats and leather jackets that never goes out of style. Some of my favourite pieces are designer items I’ve inherited from my mother but Im also a big fan of sites like Vestaire and Yoox where one persons “trash” becomes another persons treasure as it is such a great way to up-cycle. And after all, good design never goes out of style just because trends change.
There are many sustainable issues within the fashion industry from how fashion is made to how it is disposed of. What advice can you give to consumers like myself who are aware of the issues but do not know where to begin?
Think before you buy. Save up to invest in pieces that last just a little longer than the piece which costs you €10….
And then start noticing where your clothes are made! And what they’re made of! After all you’re the one who has to wear it and even chemicals in the clothes you wear can have as severe effect over time as a beauty product you apply, or something you eat.
The demand needs to come from the consumer for high street brands to change their way of producing so lets start asking the questions!
