Last month I was lucky enough to fly to the Northern Territory on a work trip, where I was to experience the famous Ghan train journey. An icon of Australian rail travel and one of the world’s great train journeys, The Ghan travels through the heart of Australia, from Adelaide to Darwin and vice versa and has done this outback crossing for 90 years. Of course, much has changed in that time. No longer just a transit from A to B, this expedition offers exquisite dining, impeccable service, comfortable suites and a range of bonus off-train experiences to enhance your trip. It's been described as a once-in-a-lifetime kind of holiday and I have to agree, it is.
We boarded the train in Alice Springs on a stifling 36 degree Celsius afternoon. I say “we” because I was accompanied by my 22 month old dictator, I mean daughter, Claudia.
We were shown to our cabin, a beautiful little room complete with two fold out beds, an en-suite with shower and large window overlooking the hot, red and rugged Australian outback. After a quick freshen up, we made our way to the lounge so I could treat myself to (skol) a couple of glasses of bubbles and then through to the dining carriage for dinner.
The train itself is a bit like the Titanic, but like, more narrow and well, not on water. So not really like the Titanic at all, but its old-fashioned, decorative decor was like stepping back in time. The ornate dining tables oozed Old World charm and I was instantly sad I hadn’t packed more linen attire, pearls and resplendent head-wear.
Most likely for other passengers’ well-being, we were given our own table for each meal and I was thankful for it. It was nice having that time together, looking out the window at the passing landscape, spotting fleeing kangaroos as we ate them off our plates... I was pleased no one but me had their 5 star food splashed across their face or clothing by a toddler who insisted on using her own knife and fork to “eat”. The food really was a highlight; it was superb. Fresh, seasonal produce arrived quickly and was plated to perfection. The chef always ensured Claudia had something easy and child-friendly, so I was careful not to expose her penchant for caviar and escargot.
There were people from all over the world on-board The Ghan and it was nice to be able to interact with them over drinks in the lounge. Train travel is nice like that; time seems to stand still, despite the fast-moving scenery.
That night we slept better than we had in a long time. The gentle motion of the train and its constant hum was strangely comforting, not unlike being rocked to sleep in a big, warm hug.
After indulging in a delicious big breakfast the next morning, we made our way by bus to Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge for a boat cruise and Aboriginal rock wall art tour. It was a very hot, dry day (around 44 degrees Celsius) and not at all suitable for a toddler or some of the cotton tops who accompanied us, but we all made it through and most slept the whole journey back to the train. It was then a free afternoon to enjoy the train until we arrived in Darwin that evening.
There was a sense of both relief and sadness disembarking The Ghan. It was a memorable, albeit brief adventure that I feel so lucky to have experienced. I am so thankful I got to show Claudia some of Australia’s fiery red centre and I am thrilled we both made it through (mostly) smiling. With five meltdowns in total and only two of them Claudia’s, I think it was a roaring success!
I can strongly recommend The Ghan to anyone interested in seeing Oz at its dramatic best. A platform for stories, making new friends, discovering our beautiful country and using wildly predictable train puns, you’re certainly on track for a brilliant time.
