#unit80

[natashawilkinsonnwkwork]

23/02/16 Today I continued to develop my set model box, I had to swap two sides of my model box round to ensure that it could work with the other parts of the show (dog patch etc.) I cut a new door in the foamboard to a more accurate size, to create a 3D scaffolding effect, I tried to use foamboard but it didn't look effective so I started to create shapes in filmo which will be cooked and then glued with Bostik glue to ensure a solid stick. For the rest of the model box I have used PVA glue, as although it takes longer then Bostik it is more flexible and allows you to move your work around whilst it is drying.

There are plenty of cutting tools in design, but we the scalpel instead of scissors as you get a more precise cut and model boxes have to be accurate, if just one unit out it could be too big or too small to fit in the theatre. 

[alexsilvestersblogbook]

Unit 80 C2 - Stage Model Box Making

Explain in detail how pieces of a model are constructed; include methods of measuring, cutting and joining.

The key to making model boxes is to be able to measure accurately and draw accurately. To do this you will need a scale ruler and a sharp pencil as well as a set square to check right angles. All model boxes are done to scale never full size. We used the scale 1:25 for the model box. So for any object at 1:25 scale you would divide the dimensions by 25, and that would be the size of the model. When using scales and exact measurements its vital you get them correct. If you are 1mm out on a 1:25 scale it means when the construction team come to build the set going by them measurements they will be out by 3cm and if thats connecting one part of a set to another thats a big mistake. Top tips are to make sure you always have a cutting mat, a metal ruler and sharp knife. If you do not have a sharp knife you are more likely to cut yourself and not the card. If you do not have a cutting matt you will not get a clean cut as cutting matts are self sealing so they are used for the knife to lay into instead of the table. Make sure you alway use a metal ruler otherwise with the sharp knife you will just slice the plastic ruler up. To join two bits of mounting card you put some contact adhesive onto each part of the model you want to join together and then wait until both parts are tacky then place on top of each other. 

[alexsilvestersblogbook]

Unit 80 C1 - Stage Model Box Making

Research and analyse all of the materials and processes that can be used in model making.

As part of the design process a set designers job is to create a model box to give the director a more accurate image so they can imagine the set in the playing space. The model box is also used for showing the actors and other performers the set before it goes into production so they can see what they will be working with during the run of the production. 

To make a model box you need a variety of skills including, cutting and being accurate. Most model boxes are made out of card especially to make the main elements such as the steel deck and main structures. Before making the final presentation model box you use a white card model that you make ruffly made out of foam board or white card. Although if you have a texture finish that cannot be shown by card you can use filmo clay. Like plasticine you can use filmo to create effect that you can’t with card. For example in the Alice set we couldn’t show the trees trunk out of card otherwise the director wouldn’t be able to visualise the finished set. So to make the model box look like there is bark on the tree we used filmo. When using filmo you can get different colours and it can be moulded and crafted into what ever shape and object you want if you have the skills then to set the design and make it hard you can put it into the oven for 20 minutes and a high temperature as it sets the filmo. 

[veritysblogbook]

The finished full colour and scale model box, you can see the main feature is the banyan tree in the middle which we as a team came up with after the director told us she wanted the play to be mystical and as if it was set within a tree as to include the audience as well because there would be audience embers seated either side as well as the front which is a mix of traverse and end on seating.the tree would have many access points for actors to pop up unexpectedly this effect was also helped by scrim blocked windows so unless the cloth was moved or lit up from behind the actor wouldn't be seen. the tree also has a large door in the middle which is used for when the jabbawocky comes out and other scene changes these also act as the doors into "wonderland" where Alice has to shrink this effect is helped by small lighting strips in the shape of a door on the bottom of the actual doors that light up when shes shrinking.Coming off the tree are long vines and branches that cover the set interlocking and running all the way down to the hand rails on the side seating banks once again this is to help include the audience more in the show behind the side seating is large polystyrene blocks that are melted slightly to give more of a snowy texture as they are snow banks but a large area is still left flat so that images can be projected onto them during different scenes so that it adds more depth to the play because we can project huge gardens onto them to give the illusion that we are in a larger world.The main structure of the set is old crumbling architecture like Cambodian temples like our director asked for which makes it seem more mystical.The floor is in a chessboard design and circular because that is what was in our brief from the director  the chessboard is designed in a way that it will look trippy and crazy to the audience to fit in with the wonderland idea and there are blocks coming off it sort of like the yellow brick road leading to different destinations.As a team we all worked on different aspects of the set i worked mainly on the tree and a bit of the floor along with Tilly whilst Sam an Ryan did most of the buildings and Ross and Alex worked on AV.

[bensblogbook]

Guide To Model Making

Equipment Self Healing Cutting Mat Scalpel Scale Ruler Set Square Sharpe Pencil Rubber Metal Safety Ruler Material Being Used To Make Model (Balsa Wood, Foam Board, Mountain Card etc) Bostik Glue Process 1. You start the model making process by first drawing out the pieces of the model that you need on to the materials that you are using. When drawing out the model pieces on to the material you are using, you must use a scale ruler to ensure it is to scale and asset square to help you keep straight lines. Of course if the model you are making does not have any straight lines them you can just draw it free hand 2. After you have drawn all of the model pieces out onto the material you then place it on to a cutting mat. You have use a cutting mat to stop the surface you set working from being damaged, and to ensure that the scalpel you are using is not blunted when it goes against the surface. The cutting mat should also be self healing. This means that as you cut through the material and hit the cutting mat it will heal itself meaning that you won't have to purchase another one. 3. Once you have placed the material on to the cutting mat you can then begin cutting. When cutting you of course use a scalpel (that must be sharp), and a metallic cutting ruler. Your scalpel must be sharp in order for it to get through the material and you must have a metallic cutting ruler to hold next to the lines in order to make your cuts straight. It is also advisable to have a metal cutting ruler because there is place to hold ruler that will stop you from cutting your fingers. Once you have this equipment you can begin cutting. When cutting you should always ensure that you are cutting away from yourself to prevent injury. You should also ensure that when you are cutting you don't out to much pressure in it (as this will give you a bad cut) and keep your scalpel straight to stop the cut being angled. 4. After all of the model pieces have been cut out, following the steps above high can them start it glue them together. To glue your model pieces together you should use bostik glue. Bostik glue is and adhesive glue which will bond the two material together with some movement when it dries. As it is bad adhesive glue you should follow the health and safety recommendations on the back of the tube or tin. When sticking materials together you should use a small amount of glue yo ensure that the model sticks easily and does not cause mess on it.

[evieuttleysblog]

More boxes ...

So the same day that we were using foam board I managed to get a little ahead and move onto card/ mount board with this I had to make the same size box but it’s a lot harder with this as the cars itself is a lot thinner and to take the side off the card to make to scale is a lot harder because the thickness is very thin, however this box I managed to complete second time round. I started by marking out the top square making that to the exact scale and then cutting that out with a scalpel and checking that was to scale by measuring it again I started on the sides however because you have to take off the thickness all the side will be different, well two and two will be the same so end up with two sets of squares the same to make the cube itself, however on this particular box we didn’t put the bottom on it so only need the 4 sides and not another top.

[bensblogbook]

10/02/2014

Today we continued to work on are cutting skills. We started the day by working in the library to finish of any Tumblr work that we had not completed. After lunch we returned to design and continued to make the models of shapes.

On Thursday I finished making a cube out of foam board and I had started to make a cuboid out of foam board. Alan asked us to move on to use mountain board to make the shape that we were on. In my case I had moved on to make cuboid. I started by making the top of the cuboid which was rectangular. I had to be 2 m by 1 m. I started making the top by drawing a right angle using a set square, this would ensure that all on my sides would have a right angle. I then marked out using a scale ruler the size of the sides. For 1 m I measured to 100 cm and for 2 m I measured to 200 cm. Once I had marked out the 100 cm I extended a vertical line up to 200 cm. I then joined the vertical line to the other extended vertical line. Once I had made the rectangle I then proceeded to cut it out. I found cutting the mountain board easier then cutting out the foam board. This is because their is less thickness to cut through, meaning that if the scalpel blade is not kept directly straight then there is not a massive angle which means it can still be glued to another material. Although I found it easy to use it still took me a number of attempts to cut the rectangle out. I feel this is down to the fact that I did not keep the scalpel blade straight. I also feel that it was because the safety ruler that I used to cut a straight line had no foam on the bottom of it so when I was cutting with it, it kept moving causing me go of the cutting line. However after a number of attempt I finally cut a perfect rectangle which would form the top part of my cuboid. I was about to start cutting out the sides of the cuboid when we finished for the day. 

Strengths 

I feel my cutting skills are getting better as I progress through these model making tasks. 

Weaknesses 

Again I feel that the only weakness I can pick up on again is minor parts when I am cutting for example the fact that I am still holding the blade at an angle. 

Plan of Action 

I will continue to complete all of the tasks to a high degree of accuracy and as independently as possible. I will also work on further improving my cutting skills so that I am keeping the scalpel dead straight when I am cutting. This will need to be achieved before we make the model box, because it had to be 100% accurate. 

[bensblogbook]

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