Loy Krathong, for those who are unfamiliar, is a nation-wide Thai festival in which little boats (krathong "basket") are sent floating into the water, to ask forgiveness from the goddess of water for polluting her. As you release your boat, you release your regret/fears/etc.
An addition to this that is perhaps the most famous part of Loy Krathong is Yee Peng, in which paper lanterns are lit and launched by the thousands into the night sky. While I have seen cyber wars waged over the separation between Loy Krathong and Yee Peng, all my Thai friends simply shrug and say that Yee Peng is just a Northern Thai addition to the nation-wide Loy Krathong, rather than a separate holiday.
Donations are also given, en mass, to the temples. In the north, there is a tradition to go to the temple at the midnight before Loy Krathong night to give your donations to the monks.
It's a huge national holiday, second only (so I'm told) to Songkram in the spring.
There is singing and decorations and trips to the temple, and, of course, the making of krathong.
The first indication, for me, that something was in the air, was the endless singing of the Loy Krathong song. It goes a little something like this:
[Embedded music video for the Loy Krathong song below.]
The English lyrics are: (side note: klong means "canal")
Loy Krathong, Loy Krathong
In the river and the Klong
Loy Loy Krathong, Loy Loy Krathong
And everybody's full of cheer
We're together at the Klong
Each one with his Krathong
My students sang this all day, every day, for almost two weeks. It is permanently stuck in my head.
Colourful lanterns and streamers started popping up all over, waving happily in the wind.
Then Loy Krathong day came along.
We started with some day-time lanterns.
[Image: Thai men are clustered around a large red-white-and-blue balloon, while a woman takes a photo and another woman holds the edge of the balloon.]
These are low-tech hot air balloons, a very fiery torch used to get it up into the sky.
[Image: a large balloon flies away]
I have no idea if anyone retrieved those balloons. Mai bpen rai!
The festival is technically a few days long, but there tends to be one big night for the launching of krathong and lanterns, and it is on this day that my students set to making their krathong.
[Image: A young boy is bent over a construction (krathong) made mostly of yellow flowers, setting thin yellow candles onto the top.]
While traditionally made of banana leaves and flowers, krathong can be made of wide variety of things. Food and plant materials are the most popular, as this is biodegradable and/or safe for animals to eat. This is, after all, a holiday about pollution.
[Image: photograph of ice-cream cone krathong - circular constructions of ice-cream cones, topped with a flower and a candle.]
Leftover flowers quickly started appearing in hair.
[Image: A young girl sits with her back to the camera, a frangipani blossom stuck into her pony-tail.]
A couple of my first graders dragged me to sit on the ground so they could decorate my hair with orchids.
[Image: The back of a red-haired woman's head, bright magenta orchid blossoms are stuck into a twist of hair, all in a row.]
Right after work, I went down to the Ping River to float my krathong.
Due to the extreme luck of having a friend who lives within walking distance of the river, I was able to park in her building's parking and just walk over to the river. Get there early, it's deceptively easy to find parking if you arrive around 6 like I did.
You can obviously make your own krathong, but since I had to drive from my village into the city, a bit of a drive for a fragile flower construction, I opted to buy a krathong from the plethora available for sale along the river banks. These range in complexity and price, anywhere from 10 baht up to hundreds if you want the banana leaf dragon. I fell in the middle and purchased a pretty 30 baht one. (Another 10 baht for a lighter, which I could have forgone, considering the amount of already lit candles and torches everywhere)
[Image: A closeup of a floral krathong, with a small candle lit in the middle and incense sticking out. Light reflecting on the river is in the background.]
Walking down and under the bridge, there are many little docks constructed for the purpose of reaching the water to send off your krathong.
I lit my krathong, and sent it off without much pomp and circumstance, but Thai typically will offer a prayer before releasing.
[Image: A night photography of a river, bright lights reflecting off the surface.]
After walking along the river for awhile, I headed back to my friend's building, where she was hosting a lantern-watching party from her condo in the sky.
It was a truly spectacular view.
[Image: A nighttime cityscape, hundreds of lanterns rising into the sky in the distance.]
We sat around in her unfinished condo, eating, drinking, telling stories, it will make an excellent story one day.
But then we obviously had to light our own lanterns too, so there was a mass exodus for the river.
After a pitstop for some pad thai, two lanterns were bought.
[Image: a black and white photo looking up from the bottom of a large paper lantern, with the centre piece lit on fire, hands holding onto the edges.
[Image: A young man holds a lighter to the centre piece of a paper lantern, setting it on fire to ready the lantern for being released. Black and white.]
[Image: A large orange (lit) paper lantern is held in place before being released.]
[Image: An orange lit paper lantern floats away into the night sky, more lanterns visible in the distance.]
We all sat on the steps to the river for awhile, watching our lanterns float away, laughing at one man's mushroom pizza tattoo, and soaking in the atmosphere.
Then we broke the magic because we all had to go home.