Bioactive Vivarium Eval. (Long Post)
The subject of using a bioactive terrarium for a reptile has been widely debated in many of the herp keeping communities. As someone who has now used an acrylic plastic enclosure, a rack system, an RUB and now a Bioactive, I have put together some of my findings in the use, function, and care of a Bioactive specifically here.Ā
Please keep in mind that a bioactive enclosure is not for everyone or every pet! While they are lovely and relatively easy to set up, they require some work to maintain, and some animals (burrowers especially, such as Blue Tongue Skink and some Hognoses) may only destroy all your hard work by unearthing your plants. Also, some omni/carnivores might snack on your cleanup crew, so if you do decide to go the bioactive route, please be careful in selecting which insects you put in it, according to what animal will be living in the space with them!
Overall, Bioactives are my favorite kinds of terrariums to keep- and in fact Iāve decided to start making and selling them to others as enclosures for their pets or just as lovely additions to a shelf.
* Very easy to set up
* Versatile in terms of which plants one can use! Vertical or horizontal cages, big or small, have different lists of plants that will thrive in them, many of them beautiful and low maintenance. Plants can also vary according to temperatures needed, humidity levels, and substrates
* Supplies an excellent source of mental and physical enrichment for the animal
* Displays beautifully
* Enables the owner to observe their animalās behavior in a more natural and low stress way
* If worried about a reptile who leads with their tongue (Bearded dragon perhaps) potentially ingesting substrate, putting down a layer of large grade pea gravel and moss on top of the bioactive layers doesnāt hurt the plants at all, and looks lovely
* Cleanup crews help with the maintenance of the cage for you. Depending on which insects are introduced, help to reduce the chance of mold in high humidity environments, breakdown pet waste, and keep oxygen in the soil for the roots of the plants to thrive.
* A little on the pricey side and may require plant specific lighting installed to keep them healthy
* Very heavy, hard to move the enclosure once itās fully planted and full
* Plants, depending on species, will require maintenance. Mostly self sustaining still means you may have to prune, trim, and train your plants to keep them under control
* Plants might get parasites or pests, which will need to be treated very carefully to avoid poisoning your pet who lives among them
* Cannot rearrange the enclosure once planted, so you have to make sure youāre happy with the setup before you finish it
* If your animal gets hurt or sick, you cannot change the substrate to paper towels or tiles to better keep wounds and such clean without destroying the bioactive. The animal would have to be moved to a different space until recovered
* Some animals might nibble or destroy plants/moss, so you must be careful about what you put in there. Research must be done to avoid toxic plants or fragile plants that will break under the animalās weight/die if chewed on
Substrate;
First layer- Large grade pea gravel, hydroballs, anything that will hold form and act as a reservoir for water. You want it at least 1.5 inches deep depending on cage size. ((10-30$ USD Depending on what you choose))
Second layer- Mesh/cheesecloth/anything porous and soft to act as a dividing layer between substrate and reservoir. be careful to select something that will let water through with little to no molding! ((4-10 $))
Third layer- More variety here. Use any kind of potting soil that has no fertilizer in it, or a fertilizer that will break down very quickly. Avoid anything with perlite in it. Mix the potting soil with orchid bark and peat moss/sphagnum moss/ things like that to add space for air and break up the texture for the plants. Make sure it is between 4-6 inches deep for the roots to flourish- if planting a jungle/rainforest/more humid enclosure. You can also create substrates for desert environments using a combination of clay, sand, rocks, tiles, and hardening play sand to carve burrows out of and make a nice, firm ground layer with pockets for succulents and tougher plants.Ā ((10-30$ Per Item depending on what you choose))
Plants;
LOTS OF OPTIONS HERE- Choose your plants based on the maximum size they will get and the size of the enclosure. For example, maybe donāt put a Mother In Lawās Tongue in a horizontal and relatively short cage or the blades will break on the top.
Size is important as well as strength. Pick plants strong enough to support the full weight of your fully grown animal, or else pick plants that can easily recover from losing pieces.Ā
Toxicity is a priority! Pick plants that will not hurt your animal if ingested or rubbed against, and know the numbers for exotic pet vets in your area to call in case of an emergency!
Its best to get starts or adults. donāt start from seeds or youāll be waiting a long time to see your enclosure get to a habitable state. Make sure you give your plants at least a month to settle in before introducing your animal into them, this will also give the clean up crews time to settle and for you to make final environment adjustments.
((10-50$ USD Depending on your choice of plants and how many are in there))
Springtails, roaches, red wigglers, and isopods all make excellent cleanup crews for your tank. Any combination of them is wonderful but I personally use isopods and springtails together, as they leave each other alone and have different jobs. Make sure not to buy them from bait shops, as many have been treated with chemicals or may have parasites.Ā
Feed them by sprinkling in some flaky fishfood under a log or rock or the waterbowl. You can also use rotting leaves from outside (but put them in the freezer for at least a week before using to kill anything in them), or bury a small piece of potato in the substrate for them to snack on. Do not overfeed, they donāt need much!
((20-40$ Depending on what species and how many you need, plus the shipping to get them to your house alive and quickly))
Depending on the species of animal, you may need UVB/Sun bulbs for lighting, but you will also need aĀ fluorescentĀ grow bulb for your plants if theyāre kept in aĀ darker area of the house. ((15-30$ If you also need the fixture, and depending on brand/quality))
I have a screen cage but I want a bioactive, what should I do?
You have a few options here, friend!
You can put in a deep plastic tray in the bottom to hold the substrate and water (or wood, but be sure to seal or cover it so it doesnāt warp or mold), you can mount planter ledges on the walls along with vine/climbing plant species, or you can use air plants.
Air plants come in a huge variety, and just need to be gently attached to the side of the screen or in the corners. They do not require any soil, and only need to be lightly misted when dry to sustain themselves. Theyāre an attractive and interesting take on bioactives.Ā
Also, your clean up crews will be limited if you choose to not do the tray/substrate bottom layers. Please be aware of this, you might not get to use them if you do not have the substrate layers at the bottom. This is totally fine, but you will have to clean more and monitor your plants closely for pests like aphids.Ā
Generally speaking, Bioactives are an incredibly rewarding experience, but they do absolutely take some thought and work. They arenāt for everyone or every pet, but if you choose to put in the time, they make beautiful additions to your herp keeping experience. Always be sure to do your research on the needs of your pet and adjust accordingly!
Please feel free to come to me with any questions or suggestions! Iām still learning too, and am more than willing to make adjustments based on the experiences of other keepers! :)
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