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After a long long long break from modelling practically anything I had a bank holiday blitz on necromunda related minis - a biker gang converted off ramshackle games bike minis and a robot walker who’s going to make a fine hazard of the waste! All need some green stuff to finish yet before paint. Hopefully I’ll have another chance to do more soon!
Necromunda Ogryn Conversion: Part 5
Just a small one with a few little details - I glued the ogryn together and did some green stuff on the arms, primarily adapting the small armour plates on the left forearm into a larger plate and then copying that onto the right arm too.
My next update will be later today, hope you like it!
Necromunda Ogryn Conversion: Part 4
Another update for my project! I wasnt entirely sure what to do for the ogryn's head, as my sculpting is not really up to much, so my idea of sculpting a new 'chaos-style' head from scratch seemed like a bad idea. I was really happy with the progress so far and I didn't want to ruin the work I'd done.
I had a rummage through my bits box and found some interesting bits, namely a gun from - I think - a Warmachine Desecrator warjack, or at least one of the three options that come in that box. The rounded part at the back of the gun looked kind of cool and had little slits in the sides that reminded me of vision slits in a knight's helmet. After some chopping it seemed to fit really well, so I glued it into the ogryn's neck.
My next stage was to do some sculpting - I mixed some green stuff and added a thin layer onto the soles of the ogryn's boots (making sure not to cover the bit that would be glued to the base) and then used an old scalpel blade to make some simple tread detail. I then glued him to the base.
I added a big lump of green stuff to the back of the helmet, making sure to keep dry-fitting the shoulder-pads/back-plate piece to ensure I wasn't green-stuffing in the wrong place. As the placement of the helmet makes it look like the Ogryn has his head slightly turned, I also sculpted the green stuff slightly with my sculpting tool to make it look like it's some sort of cloth cover that is wrinkled up a little.
That's all for this post, my next post will be soon! Hope you enjoy it!
Necromunda Ogryn Conversion: Part 3
This is the bit where I got a little carried away and started gluing things together before I should have, but it's all worked out okay so no worries. Anyway:
Firstly I took the small round armour plate that I think is supposed to have the Blood Bowl player number on it. I shaved the spikes off the outside of it and also flattened down the damaged bit on the inside.
The boots had spikes on the soles so I shaved those off too, along with the tab for attaching him to a slottabase, as I'll be gluing him onto a Necromunda base.
For the front of the body, I shaved down some of the detail on the stomach/chest plate because I wanted to have it as a flat piece rather than the skull face. You can see that in the last picture a lot of the detail has been carved away. Later on I used green stuff to make the plate flatter. It's not very clear in the photos but in the last photo I'd stuck the front and back of the body together and glued the boots on too, and also carved away some of the details like straps and buckles on the lower legs that made it look so blood-bowl-ish. You can also see that I totally massacred the head/neck area with a pair of clippers. I don't want him to have a regular ogre head, for sure.
On the next update I'll show you some more progress! Hope you like it!
Necromunda Ogryn Tutorial: Part 2
Hello again! I'm back with the second part of my tutorial!
So as you can see the ogre's arms come on three separate pieces. I'm not going to be using the piece that is the back of the gauntlet. Firstly on both arms I cut the hands off, then luckily for the right arm there's a handy recess for the bit of round flash on the back of the servo arm claw. For the left arm I just drilled a hole in the wrist to take the claw flash. This way i've managed to get the 'pinning' done too. The claws are attached with super glue.
Remember that with resin parts like these claws, you should probably wash them in warm soapy water first!
These arms will have some green stuff work on them later, but for now they look pretty good!
I'll be back later with the next part, hope you like it!
Necromunda Ogryn Tutorial: Part 1
Good morning folks! I've been meaning to put this little tutorial up for a while now, so here goes! This is Part 1!
So, when I first heard that you can get ogryns in Necromunda I decided that my Chaos Cult needed a big bruiser to smash some fools. After looking online and not finding anything that I fancied, I decided to get the plastic Blood Bowl ogre and do some conversion work. I also bought some other parts online to fit in with my plan - a servo harness from Zinge Industries and also some really small plastic bolts I found on eBay. Everything else in this conversion is from my bits box.
So at the top I used the picture of the ogre on the back of the box to roughly plan what I wanted to do. Replacing the spikes on his shoulder pad with huge bolts seemed like a cool idea, plus obviously claws and I decided to use the round armoured plate as a valve dial. It was just a rough idea but I was happy with it. Anyway:
Before building the ogre, I started work on the shoulder pad.
Step 1 is to get rid of the spikes and then drill some holes for the bolts, which are 2mm diameter. My drill bit was a little too small so I had to widen the hole with a scalpel, but that's fine.
Step 2 is to put the small nuts on three of the bolts about 3mm along and then use super glue to fix the nut in place. A dab on the top and bottom of the nut worked fine.
Step 3 is to roughly cut the bolts into different lengths, removing the head of the bolt, and then gluing the bolts into the holes in the shoulder pad. As you can see, the nuts are now right up against the shoulder pad and cover the somewhat rough holes I made with my scalpel. Again, plenty of super glue used here.
Anyway that's it for part one, later I'll upload the next section. Hope you enjoy it!
EDIT: I stupidly forgot to add a name and link to the place I got the servo harness bits from. Fixed now!
Some interesting Frostgrave Warbands!
Reblogging especially for the #Discworld warband!
1/72 scale diorama depicting a kamikaze attack on the American battleship USS Missouri, on the 11th of April, 1945.
Created by René Hieronymous from Austria, based on a very famous photo taken by the ship’s baker, Seamen Len Schmidt, during the Battle of Okinawa.
Source.
Reblogging for @natogreendog !
Empress Miniatures 28mm U-Boat submarine resin kit unmade 1/56 plus crew | Toys & Games, Wargames & Role-Playing, Table Top/Historical | eBa
Hey y'all, it's that time again - I'm spring-cleaning through the hobby cupboards and clearing out anything I haven't used in over a year.
y’all
a mutual of mine
suddenly has posts on their blog
with links to “find women to have sex with”
my mutual is NOT POSTING THESE
tumblr just got even worse
on that note PLEASE let me know if i’m suddenly posting random pictures of women with a link underneath the photo. don’t click the link, just FYI.
i do suggest reblogging this in case someone sees this happening to someone else they follow
yeah, same thing happened to a comic creator i follow during the protest
bot brute-forced their password and posted pictures of women with links underneath
keep an eye out and let the person know
I’ve still not planned a project for this printer, but the buildings print so well that I’ve been churning out a fair few now…..
And with a super quick spray and some dots of blue on the windows they look table ready!
Mass Spitfires Takeoff
Turn it up!
Photo from a few years back that’s floated up on my fb feed. My guard army, built in the days before stompers and knights were common (the plastic super heavy kits and valkyries were out by this point). Still not much more painting gone on it since then……
A few photo’s of the weekends bolt action game, an advance on the lonely bunker. The British didn’t manage a spectacular brake-through, being stalled by German re-enforcements who themselves were then mostly driven off by artillery support. Given me a nudge to paint some more bits up soon!
Post-apocalyptic Roads!
Just thought I'd share some pics of the roads I've done so far, so you can see how they look!
Tutorial! Post-apocalyptic Roads, part 2:
Hey there, I'm back with part two of my tutorial on how to make cheap and easy roads for post apocalyptic wargaming! Part 2 is about painting - here we go!
Last time we got to the point of undercoating the roads with matt black spray. Now time to grab the stuff you need:
* acrylic paint - light grey, black, brown, white
* masking tape (the thinner one about 1" wide)
* big old DIY-styke paintbrush, I used a 1" wide brush
* sponge - I used a bit of a kitchen sponge with the scourer bit torn off
* steel ruler & pencil
So! Step one is to mix up a nice dark grey with a hint of brown in it - not too much. I used black and light grey acrylic mixed and added brown until I was happy with the colour. Then just do a nice drybrush over the whole surface. It's tough and ready, but any major mistakes can be covered up, and besides road surfaces are rarely uniform anyways.
Then I do another lighter drybrush with just the light grey acrylic, concentrating on the edges of the damaged bits especially.
If you're doing a lot of roads I would do them all at the same time if you have the space, because it ensures that they roads match up colour-wise.
After this step, I left the roads 24 hours to thoroughly dry, as I didn't want the masking tape used in the next step to pull any paint off.
After 24 hours, time to do road markings. Now, a note here: mine are really basic road markings and probably don't really match any from any country. You can obviously adapt this system for yourself.
I used a couple of off-cuts of cork the same width as the roads to make some markers for the lines. Mine are 6mm wide so I marked the middle of the 4" road off-cuts and then marked 3mm on each side.
You can just about see the pencil lines on there. With an off-cut at each end of the road, I put my steel ruler between the markings to act as a guide for laying out two long pieces of masking tape.
There's the centre line for the road markings. I decided to make my white lines 1 inch long, and in order to keep the lines uniformly spaced that means having a 1/2 inch bit of bare asphalt at each end, then dividing the remaining space into inches.
Here's the spacing I've marked on the masking tape (gently so as not to sent the cork underneath). Then put more tape on to cover the areas that are bare asphalt between the white lines - as you can see, there's a half-inch on each end and then it's staggered along. Unfortunately my masking tape isn't exactly 1" wide so I had to do two pieces overlapped slightly.
Now that's done, time to paint! With the sponge I dabbed light grey acrylic into the gaps. It's important to only use a little paint (wipe most of it off the sponge with a paper towel - this is like drybrushing. Drysponging?) If you use too much paint it can sleep under the masking tape.
Then use white acrylic and the sponge for the next step.
If you're careful you can peel the masking tape off while the paint's still wet. Here's the result!
If you're *really* careful and managed to peel off the tape in one piece you can even re-use the masking tape 'ladder' to stick onto the next road section.
Hope you liked the tutorial! You can add extra details too, like tyre skid-marks and cracks etc, which i will detail next time, but you can use them like this and they look pretty good all together!
