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New UK Limits on Oxybenzone/Benzophenone-3
The UK is updating its regulations on benzophenone-3 (also known as oxybenzone), a common UV filter in cosmetics, to bring them in line with recent EU changes. For companies manufacturing cosmetics that might include benzophenone-3, if you haven’t checked your use levels, now is the time to do so. The new UK rules, expected to be adopted on 21 July 2025 and coming into force on 21 January 2026…
Can we use in vitro testing to justify SPF claims?
Sun protection factor, or SPF, testing uses a bit of chemistry and a bit of biology. The Beer-Lambert law allows us to calculate how much ultraviolet energy passes through a layer of sunscreen. This principle is used in in vitro, testing and is highly predictive when it comes to the behaviour of light and molecules. However, the biological side is much more complicated. Human skin varies greatly…
Methyl Trimethicone and Tetrasiloxane are Raising Environmental Concerns
The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) added Methyl Trimethicone (CAS 17928-28-8), Tetrasiloxane (CAS 141-62-8) the Candidate List of SVHCs due to environmental reasons. This is a process under the EU Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH) Regulation.  These aren’t very commonly found, but they are used as cosmetic ingredients in hair care. Addition to the Candidate List…
Something To Think About When Setting Specifications
I go for a walk nearly every morning before I start work. It’s good to get some exercise in before the day gets busy. And it’s also a good time to think – again, before the day gets busy. This morning I was thinking back to a story I heard some thirty years ago from a work colleague. He was an engineer and had spent most of his career shaping metal into useful things. But he had a brief spell…
Modest Change To Permitted Level of Homosalate
The European Union has introduced a change to the permitted use of homosalate, a commonly used UV filter in cosmetic products. This is to be honest not the most sweeping of reforms. Homosalate isn’t a particularly widely used sunscreen. Only face products are affected. And the new maximum permitted is likely to accomodate most existing formulations. It affected only a couple of the many…
How Much Accelerated Stability Testing Do You Need To Carry Out on a cosmetic product?
A question that comes up fairly often, is how much stability testing is needed. The short answer is that you are required to make sure the product is stable. How you do so is up to you. Carrying out a stability study on your product is the obvious way to do this, but if you can achieve it by referring to its track record or analogies with similar products that have been through a stability…
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The New EU Allergen List
What’s Changing and Why? Until recently, EU law required cosmetic products to list 24 specific fragrance allergens on their packaging if they were present above very low levels. These rules were designed to help people who are sensitive to certain ingredients avoid products that might cause them problems. However, as our understanding of allergies has improved, it’s become clear that more…
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Step-by-Step Guide: How to Create a GPSR File Easily
REGULATION (EU) 2023/988, also known as the General Product Safety Regulation (GPSR), aims to ensure that products placed on the market are safe for consumers. This regulation applies to all products, including those sold online, and sets out the responsibilities of manufacturers, importers, and distributors to ensure product safety. Continue reading Step-by-Step Guide: How to Create a GPSR…
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Heavy Metals in Cosmetics: Background to Regulations, Risks, and Testing
 Heavy Metals in Cosmetics? Heavy metals, such as lead, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and others, are naturally occurring elements that can be found in the environment. They can make their way into cosmetics through contaminated raw materials or during the manufacturing process. These metals are not intentionally added to cosmetics but can be present as impurities. The presence of heavy metals in…
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Global VOC Regulations in Cosmetic Products: Rationale and Practicalities
Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) are a large group of organic chemicals that have high vapour pressure at room temperature. This characteristic allows them to evaporate easily into the atmosphere, contributing to air pollution and potentially causing health issues. VOCs are found in many everyday products, including cosmetics, paints, and cleaning agents. In the context of cosmetic products,…
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WADA Compliant Cosmetics: Do Athletes Need Them?
I frequently receive questions about cosmetics, often on familiar topics. However, occasionally, I encounter queries that are entirely new to me. Recently, a client asked if their products complied with WADA anti-doping guidelines. I wasn’t aware of WADA, let alone its regulations. Continue reading WADA Compliant Cosmetics: Do Athletes Need Them?
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Thixotropy - What it is and why it matters in cosmetic formulations
Here’s a word that gets bandied about quite often in formulation labs, because there’s really no other word that fit the thing it describes. Thixotropy is a property of certain gels or fluids that become less viscous (thinner) when subjected to shear stress, such as stirring, shaking, or squeezing, and then gradually return to their original, more viscous (thicker) state once the stress is…
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How To Waste Time Doing Pointless Consumer Evaluation Studies
Early in my career, I was called on to manage a significant development project. The team I had to manage was both skilled and wise enough to know when their skills weren’t adequate for the challenge at hand. We were well-resourced, so we could, and did, draw on external expertise where needed. We successfully developed a product that has gone on to do very well. My immediate manager and other…
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Why Sunscreens Are Tricky For Small Businesses
Sunscreen Formulations Sunscreen products are a staple in many consumers’ skincare routines. They offer protection against the harmful effects of UV radiation, helping to prevent sunburn, skin damage, and premature ageing. That last one is probably the big motivator for a lot of their use. The popularity of sunscreens has grown significantly over the years as awareness of the importance of sun…
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How I wrote the first ever Safety Assessment
It seemed like just another day in the lab. I spent the biggest single chunk of my career at Stiefel Labs, first as a formulation scientist then as a lab manager. Stiefel is now a division of Glaxo, but back then it was the world’s biggest dermatology company.Continue reading How I wrote the first ever Safety Assessment
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What are these responsible person mandates all about?
 If you are involved in importing or exporting cosmetics into Europe or the UK, you might have encountered the term “mandate.” What exactly is it? Currently, there is no direct reference to “mandates” in the cosmetic regulations; however, it has been my observation that many practices that become regulatory requirements initially emerge as industry norms because they logically address certain…
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FDA Takes Action on Talc Cancer Rsk
In my last blog post on the subject of the risks of talc, I pointed out that since the 1970s, manufacturers in the United States have put an emphasis on using asbestos-free talc in consumer products. I also reviewed the scientific studies looking at the possible link between ovarian cancer and talc use. The findings were split – some studies suggested a slight increase in risk, while others…
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