How Ramen Impacted the World:
The impact of the mass ramen culture is seen in society, economy and in some sense in politics as well. In 1958, Momofuku Ando marketed the first ever instant noodle in “Chikin Ramen” flavor. Ironically, the original packaged ramen was a luxury due to its expensive price tag. Eventually as the mass production of these noodles decreased the price to a less than a dollar per unit the popularity rose as a response to its low cost, quick and filling meal package. However, before Momofuku Ando’s perfected and “ramenization” of the world, Japan’s history helped popularized the noodles the world has come to love.
In 1910, notably around the time Momofuku Ando was born, the Meiji period of Japan was in full swing. The introduction of new food items to the Japanese moved the people away from a heavily oriented rice diet to alternative wheat based carbohydrates like noodles and bread. During the Meiji Period the processing of food became popularized. The canning of foods became increasingly common for feeding soldiers and military personnel during the later parts of the 19th century up to the start of World War I. In urban areas many restaurant and serviced eateries were established as well. This continued to popularize the Sina soba that was brought over from the Asian subcontinent. The rise of wageworkers in urban Japan stimulated the need for something fast and filling. The processing in making ramen in noodle shops were quick as the broth was made in big batches to be reheated or reconstituted and toppings already prepared to be added on. Besides cooking the noodles the rest would be assembly. After Japan’s victory in the Sino-Japanese War, shina soba was considered by the Japanese as a low status food, which made it fitting for the agricultural laborers who migrated to the cities for work. This was contrary to the western introduced carbs which were made into breads and cakes viewed as food of the bourgeoisie. The class disparity was evident. Even in the early days of ramen the proletariat label was attached to the dish.
Even to this day the bottom of the social period is seem with packets of instant ramen in their cabinets. Ramen, according to Deborah Gewertz in her interview with the Boston Globe, is a form of proletariat free choice. By no means will ramen elevate people from their current statuses but it does provide nourishment for the poor. She also says that ramen is a rather basic attempt at nourishment but it keeps the people at the bottom alive and that is better than having them starve to death. While it keeps the bottom class alive but there are other aspects of ramen to consider, like MSG, sodium levels, the preservatives. The ingredients and the mass production of ramen has impacted society through the introduction of this fast food culture and the acknowledgement of questionable ingredients.
MSG and high sodium is a concern for many people. A package of ramen today can contain 910 mg of sodium, allotting to 38% of a person’s daily value of sodium in a typical 2,000 calorie diet. A high salt diet can be linked to high blood pressure and the cardiological conditions linked to it. The concern with the MSG and sodium can be referred to as the Chinese Restaurant Syndrome (CRS). Based on the National institution of Health, CRS is attributed to MSG and symptoms like chest pain, flushing, headache, numbness. sweating, and nausea were reported to have occurred. The first case of this appeared 1968. This caused an international panic and wariness about eating foods with MSG and especially in Asian foods. It was until further research that MSG was out of the clear. The FDA defines MSG as monosodium glutamate, a derivative of glutamic acid. MSG is found in naturally grown foods like tomatoes, seaweed, and in rich foods like cheeses. The process of MSG extraction is the fermentation sugar similar to that of yogurts. The FDA also mentions that MSG is generally safe for consumption and that in tests there were no sensitivities in response to its consumption. This further goes to ensure the more radical reactions to foods from different cultures. Pre-World War I the Japanese deemed shina soba as food of the lower class. And in the late 1960s, Asian food, especially that of Chinese origin, was seen as to induce adverse effects on health. It seems to be a miracle that ramen is so widely accepted today considering it’s history.
Another example in which ramen is highly socially impacting is the usage of ramen in prison. Prison is known for its tough environment and unique class of misfits. Another aspect that prison is infamous for is the lack of autonomy. It is fitting seeing as it is a correctional institute. However, it is important to note the lack of autonomy in prisoner’s daily diets. Prison food is not known to be the best or at least palatable but the prisoners have seem to found a way to circumvent the system for a bit of elbow room. In November 2015, a book devoted to ramen recipes concocted in prison was published. The entire book by Clifton Collins Jr. and Gustavo “Goose” Alvarez gives recipes and stories from the cell. The utility of ramen is stretched beyond its known capacity for prison is not known to have choice in toppings or an availability of meats and produce to be at the inmates’ disposal. Ramen is used as a starch for most of the book’s recipes. There are accounts of where cooked ramen is molded into pizza crust and powdered uncooked ramen is made into tamales. The spread of ramen as a commodity for the ends of society is evident. It is interesting to note the barter system created by the prisoners in exchange for instant ramen and how prisoners would come together to create a dish called "the spread” consisting of whatever food they could hoard and contribute at the end of the week. Ramen to the prisoners is not only a way to feed themselves but have a bit of choice in their day to day lives. Perhaps even a break from the food they are forced to eat. In addition, it forms an economy based on odds and ends of pre-packaged foods like instant ramen, candy, peanut butter, and of the like.
In early Japan the archipelago was isolated in trade and culture. Until the 1850s, Japan had not progressed. During the 1920s-30s the world was in a state of depression. The looming conflict of World War II was brewing and the major nations were recovering from resources expended for World War I. The world was clutching to their money with an iron grip. This drove the Japanese silk markets to increasingly low prices. This pushed the Japanese to go into what was known as Manchuria, modern day Korea, for resources the little archipelago could not provide. The occupation of Chinese coasts further increased the cultural crossing of Chinese and Japanese diets. Furthermore, due to the political conflict that swept world, U.S. occupation in Japan opened up the diet to including wheat which changed the soba noodles made from buckwheat originally Japanese into ramen noodles that are solely wheat based. The incorporation of kansui (alkaline water) into ramen noodles was another Chinese influence that gave the noodles its springiness in texture. Compared to feudal Japan, Meiji period was a time of evolution for the nation. It was the perfect time for its expansion because of the establishment in trade with Western nations as well as Japan’s occupation of Manchuria. This expansion added to the eventual expansion of ramen’s popularity around the world.
According to Huffington Post, in 2012 100 billion units of ramen was purchased. These noodles have been so popular that Momofuku Ando opened an instant ramen museum. Not to be mistaken with another museum devoted to “real” ramen made with the toppings, broth, and non-tempura-ed noodles. Ramen became such a international phenomenon that LuckyRice (a culinary council formed by top chefs around the world) holds Ramen “Slurpfest” in major cities like New York and LA as a way to increase exposure to the ramen in the higher end of the spectrum. Tickets for these events are not included into the million dollar business from noodle sales alone.
Ramen’s popularity spread gradually and then suddenly. As a luxury, Momofuku was not nearly as successful in his sales but as the price of the noodles dropped and profits exceeded production cost ramen became good business. Japan history not only helped shape the original shina noodles but was reinvented by Ando, a Taiwanese living in Japan. Ramen’s impact can be seen to be entwined in the world’s economy, societies, and political warfare. The history of ramen is extensive and it will continue to be changing and evolving due to its popularity in addition to the wide variety in the noodle preparation.
Gardner, Ralph, Jr. "The Ramen Renaissance." The Wall Street Journal 27 Oct. 2014: n. pag. Print.
Harris, Jenn. "Shia LaBeouf and Ramen Prison Hacks in the New 'Prison Ramen' Cookbook." LA Times 13 Oct. 2015: n. pag. Print.
Johnson, Carolyn Y. "The Global Power of Instant Noodles." Boston Globe[Boston] 8 Sept. 2013: n. pag. Print.
"Questions and Answers on Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)." FDA. U.S. Food and Drug Administration, 19 Nov. 2012. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.
Veronese, Keith. "10 Revolting Foods That People Have Made in Prison." I09. N.p., 30 July 2012. Web. 5 Dec. 2015.
Vorvick, Linda J. "Chinese Restaurant Syndrome." MedlinePlus. U.S. National Library of Medicine, 2 Nov. 2014. Web. 5 Dec. 2014.
