Facing the Fear in San José
Studying abroad can end up being a wholly different experience than what your professors intended it to be. Jack Dylan* knows first hand:
We were somewhere between the fourth and fifth brothel when the drugs began to take hold. The synergistic combination of adrenaline and the synthetic energy I snorted 20 minutes ago provided the moment of clarity.
What the hell am I doing? I never should have trusted this guy. How do I ditch him?
Six hours ago I was out with friends. Leaving the bar, I noticed two guys passing a joint. I wanted to join; no one else in my group did.
I’ll take my own taxi, I told them.
How many times had I heard “Don’t leave the group?” As many times as I had realized “dangerous” means “fun” in foreign countries.
The first guy was Canadian. He’d lived in Costa Rica for ten years. Or something like that. The other guy was from Miami. Loved the women, nightlife and power a North American with money can hold in Central America.
They let me in on their rotation but skipped me a few times. Whatever. I told them my story. Been in Costa Rica for a month and half. Love the weather and the gregarious people. Got two and half months left in paradise.
The Miami native, I don’t remember his name and didn’t even really catch it the first time, asked me if I wanted to hang with him tonight.
“I hardly got any money left,” I said.
“Really? Alright, let’s do it.”
The Canadian left as the joint burned out and I followed Miami back into the bar.
Studying abroad tests comfort zones. I wanted to kick mine in the teeth.
He ordered two Jagerbombs. With a bit of encouragement I chugged mine with him. My eyes still closed as my throat succeeded on its second attempt to swallow, I heard him.
The cab driver couldn’t stop laughing. I knew we were going to the capital, San José, but my Spanish was failing me.
“Don’t worry, buddy. You’re gonna love it.”
We reached our stop and fare was 10,000 colones. $20. As he reached into his wallet I could see a mountain of aqua bills, the color of the 10,000 colones bill.
The bar looked like shit from the outside. I’d been to San José before, but didn’t recognize this part. The streets were filthy. A homeless man was sleeping on the other side of the street.
The smell hit me first. Sex. Plain and simple. Before seeing the first prostitute I knew where we were. Prostitution is legal in Costa Rica, a not-so-guilty pleasure.
I started shaking. If it weren’t for the weed and the drinks I would have looked like a sapling in a hurricane.
I followed Miami to a table. Two more Jagerbombs and two beers.
Porn was playing on the four televisions in the bar. Two other groups of guys were here. The girls, some naked, some modestly covered in thong and bra, appeared disinterested with life. A topless waitress served us our drinks.
“Dude, I don’t wanna do this,” I said.
“First time, huh? Pick any one you want. My treat.”
“No thanks, man. I got a girlfriend back home.”
“And she has no clue where you are, man.”
A girl approached Miami. You could tell she knew him. They talked about something from “last weekend.” He told her to find someone for his friend.
She smelled like the cigarette burned couch my buddy in the States fucks his girlfriend on. “No” didn’t seem to mean much to her. Neither did my lack of Spanish.
“Hey, if you wanna just look, that’s up to you,” Miami said. “I’ll be back.”
And with that I found myself alone in a brothel in San José around 2 a.m.
Should I leave? I don’t have money for cab fare. I can’t call anyone. I have to stick with Miami, he’s got money. I finished my Jagerbomb and spent my remaining money on another beer.
As I finished that beer Miami returned.
“You’re an idiot, man. These bitches will do things your girl would never do.”
“Yeah, I bet,” I said. “But I’m really wearing down, man. Think I can get going home?”
“Already? We got more places to go.”
The next few hours are a blur. I remember the following:
Costa Rican brothels operate on an increasing scale of price and perceived quality. Our first stop was a $20 brothel. There are also $40, $60, $80 and $100 brothels. We made a stop at one of each. The higher echelon brothels are more centrally located in the heart of San José.
At every brothel we drank one Jagerbomb. At every brothel I declined the primary service.
Miami knew guys and girls at every stop. At the fourth brothel he bought cocaine. Exhausted, drunk and mindless I accepted when he offered me two lines in the bathroom. It turned out to be a Godsend.
A short time into our stop at the fifth brothel, the $100 sort, Miami excused himself to the bathroom. The coke was in full effect and the nerves that had been drowned in liquor transformed into primal roars in my head.
I stepped back from my drink and into a sunrise. Was it really 7 a.m.?
I had to distance myself from Miami. Reality began sinking in with every step. Ten blocks from Miami and into truth, I stopped.
It was all I could think.
Every town in Costa Rica has a centro commercial, a center square. San José’s is home to many a homeless man at night. They were rousing when I arrived.
Clueless, I sat on a bench. I quickly had company.
B.O. doesn’t begin to capture the smell. This three-toothed guy in army fatigues smelled like real shit. As I was preparing in my head in Spanish what to ask he pulled out a crack pipe. I asked anyway.
“San Joaquin, huh? I know a taxi driver who can get you there,” he said between rips.
Before I knew it I was flying down the highway.
Costa Rican taxis are red. So are the fake taxis. Both use the same pay meters, except the piratas, or pirate taxis, set theirs on a faster rate.
About halfway home I realized my guy hadn’t even turned his meter on.
That’s when the Fear set in. Nervous, I initiated small talk. At times I found Spanish I never knew I had, at others I couldn’t think of the most basic of verbs.
About three-fourths of the way home, flying through traffic like a hyena chasing snails, my driver removed the Honda logo in the center of the steering wheel, pulled out a bag of cocaine and expertly snorted three lines he neatly sorted on his right forefinger.
As we approached my neighborhood, I panicked. How the hell am I going to pay this crazy bastard?
I had to lie. Telling him to wait outside while I gathered money from my drawer in my room made no sense. I couldn’t borrow money from my host father.
Did I mention my brain was shot?
Two blocks from my house, at about eight in the morning, I pointed to a house that wasn’t mine.
Fuck. I opened my door in the eastbound car and ran west.
My heart pounded harder than I knew possible. I screamed for help. I cut down an alley. The car was close behind.
He was trying to run me over. I jumped onto the sidewalk. So did the car. He was screaming.
I had never been down that alley before. Dead end. I had to bait him out of the car. The man was old and I could out run him. As long as he didn’t pin me to the brick wall I was facing.
He stopped just short. Something about killing my fucking ass. He got out. Yes.
I jumped on the hood and ran down the alley. Turning that car around in the tight alley will buy me time.
I sprinted back down the alley, turned right and sprinted down the road my fake house was on, turned right down the street my real house was on and as I reached the locked gate to my real house the car skidded to a stop behind me.
I screamed for my host father. Terrified, I couldn’t open the simple lock on the gate. As the pirata was opening his door, my host father arrived. He screamed at me. He screamed at the pirata. The pirata screamed at me. The pirata screamed at my host father.
A short discussion I scarcely had the energy to translate occurred. Money was thrown out of the gate and I was pulled in.
I tried to explain but my host father simply sent me to bed.
“We will talk when you rise,” he said. “This was a learning experience.”
A learning experience it was. An experience in culture, an experience in trust, an experience in debauchery.
I made the worst decisions of my life that night. I thought myself worldly, independent, grown. But a 21-year-old with an appetite for adventure in a city known for swallowing overconfident gringos is a mismatch.
I was lucky to escape alive. While I wish to never face a similar experience, I hold a silent, almost guilty confidence about that night. If I can make it through that, what can’t I survive?