One of the hill tribe girls at Doi Suthep.
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@thesunnyoffice
One of the hill tribe girls at Doi Suthep.
Doi Suthep
Last working day in Chiang Mai.
Starting my job around noon now to be in sync with my team in London means my mornings are free, so I got to make the most of them. I couldn’t possibly leave this place without visiting Doi Suthep, and that morning me, Max and James decided to hike our way all the way up there.
There’s not too much information about that hike — all we knew is that it would be a close to 2h walk up the mountains, finishing at the Wat Doi Suthep temple. After hiking for so long under extreme heat, the views were definitely worth the pain!
Part of the temple was being reconstructed, and people were encouraged to write messages on the tiles that were to be part of the reconstructed walls. Obviously I took this opportunity to become part of it and so my message is amongst this pile of tiles. It definitely feels amazing!
The temple itself was pretty, but not that different from all others. It was nice hanging around there early morning: almost no tourists, maybe no more than 5 or 6. There’s something very peaceful about hanging around with the monks.
Trust the garages.
You can search Tripadvisor and Foursquare all you want, to find the best places to eat in Chiang Mai. But nothing will ever beat these places, the underground, almost shady, let’s-eat-in-my-garage kind of places in terms of quality and value for money.
You have to walk around the back alleys and stay away from the Old City. This place didn’t even have a name — and yet the Sushi was pretty amazing, the atmosphere was quiet, and the locals sometimes even sit with you.
It took my a while to trust these places, for some reason. But the truth is the tastier food (and the cheapest) I’ve tried so far was in these.
The night market
Despite being everywhere and probably the most popular thing of Chiang Mai, I hadn’t really taken the time to fully explore the night markets near the Old City. So that day me and a couple of others headed off to the East side of town and ventured into what would be the craziest and busiest market experience I’ve had so far!
My mind was blown away. I thought London markets were big and busy... this is something else. So much bigger, so many more people! Once you get in the middle of these market alleys, from 6pm on, you’re doomed to be walking like a penguin for hours straight. So you do the best thing you can do: you keep on eating and snacking on the great little food things you find there!
Bacon wrapped mushrooms, coconut and peanut filled vine leaves, coconut pancakes, mango sticky rice, nice noodle coconut shells... all of these in the same night, for me. That was a lot of food, and I regret nothing! I think I didn’t pay more than 5 GBP for all of these things, and that also included a cup of very shady coffee along the way.
We spent quite a bit of time wandering around, then desperately searching for a very famous Blues Café that was supposed to be open everyday. Except for when we got there, we discovered that it was open everyday except for Sundays... great.
With our bellies full we got into a Songthaew and made our way back. If you go to Chiang Mai then definitely don’t miss these markets! They’re so lively and with such a cool and vibrant atmosphere. Despite the chaos, no vendor is pushy or is always trying to convince you to buy something. I knew I’d be back (and so I did, a few other times).
I’m not too sure about how I feel about the parents that dress up little girls beautifully like the one above, for money. I’ve seen this little girl every single time I went there.
A jazzy kind of night
This city isn’t very walkable, as I’ve mentioned time and time again. And yet, somehow, it keeps drawing me to it. Between dodging incoming tuk-tuks and motorbikes, getting off and on sidewalks that suddenly cease to exist, I keep coming back to the temples. They’re so peaceful at night, the perfect getaway from the busy days, even if only for a few minutes.
Every so often a family of 2, 3 or 4 comes along for a night prayer. I always put my camera down — would it be disrespectful to take pictures of them silently playing? I’m never sure, so I try to avoid it, even though my mind wants to get that picture.
After this night stroll, we’ve hit the Jazz Café near the North Gate. What a wonderful joint for a laid back end of the night. Good jazz, a lively crowd, a very underground and old school feeling to it... and very good conversations. And of course, a few glasses of wine.
Cats and bunnies
I haven’t been taking many photos lately. It’s incredible how much I already established my own routine here and already became too comfortable going mostly to the same places every time.
There’s one place that needs mentioning, though. The 9th Street Coffee! And why should I mention it? Because... there’s a bunny in the caffe! A bunny, roaming freely! How cool is that? Chiang Mai also has at least two cat cafés, which so far I’ve miserably failed to visit... but come on, a bunny café is just as cool!
I wonder why they didn’t call it the Bunny Café, instead of 9th Street Cafe. Because the place really is on Street 9, so no points there for originality. The café is nothing of outstanding, the Wifi was pretty rubbish and the coffee was okay. But the bunny...!
Also found this sticker on the back of a Songthaew. True words, bro, true words.
The bunny photo was taken by Amna, so kudos and credits for her for the bunny love.
nodeschool in Chiang Mai!
What a great day! Friday was the day the first event of nodeschool (driven by the very nomadic node.js community) thatever happened in Chiang Mai. Given that the city is home to a lot of developers, it made complete sense to host one here.
This couldn’t have been possible if it weren’t Richard Litt, a member of our Hacker Paradise community, to make this happen. Richard has been an inspiration to me since the day I’ve arrived; it’s impossible to be oblivious to the willpower of people like him who live to create great things and to serve the community at the same time. I’m grateful I’ve had the opportunity to meet him, and others just like him who cheerfully remind me that not everything in this world needs to be driven by money: giving back to the community is much more often that not the thing that generates most satisfaction.
So this was a really fun event, held at the very popular co-working space Punspace. They were kind enough to give us a big chunk of their space for free for a few hours, so kudos to them! Punspace was actually quite relaxed and spacious, and had the best coffee I’ve had at a co-working space, with their own baristas... definitely better than the instant coffee you get everywhere else. Also, homemade oatmeal cookies. A place with good coffee and cookies forever owns my heart.
All of this was followed by a late dinner at Salsa Kitchen, where the burritos were massive and the salad wasn’t really a salad — instead an epic combination of meat, a small salad and... well, more meat. Unsure if that’s what constitutes a salad in Mexico, but hey, I’d never complain.
When the Wifi stops working, you gotta have a backup plan.
This is was a surprisingly nice break. Thanks, Winnnie. I’ve learned so much.
(@ Tiger Ted)
One of the greatest things about Chiang Mai is obviously the food aspect.
We’re always trying out new places to eat: some are cheap, some are expensive, some definitely healthier than others... and some definitely quirkier than others.
Eating healthy in Thailand isn’t as easy as everyone would think at first. While they’re heavy on the vegetables and the lean meats, which is really a great thing, they’re also very, very heavy on the sugar... And I mean really heavy. Everything, by default, has crazy amounts of sugar in it. Every curry I order has more sugar than I usually consume in a week. I began to notice these things once I arrived and began to have serious energy crashes all the time.
I’ll later do a proper post for food places in Chiang Mai, but for now I’ll just share how happy I was when I discovered a small place called Organic Vegetables, suggested by Amna (one very loveable foodie): a place which looks like someone’s garage (and probably is); no comforts, no luxuries, not even real tables, but damn it, they serve the best veggies omelettes I’ve ever had in my life, all served with a delicious red rice.
Best of all; the price, around 40 Baht. That comes at about 80 cents for a delicious, healthy and full meal. Most “low-end” eating joints cost around twice as much but you never know what you’re getting in the mix, since everything is covered in sauces that are filled with nasty stuff like vegetable oil and again, loads of sugar... at least here you know what you’re getting.
I’m coming here for most of my meals now. I’m sold!
Recovering
This week is all about recovering a bit. So I’ve been taking things slower; this week is more about helping others and not taking myself too seriously, after my recent burnout.
I’d say I’ve been doing okay... but it’s surprisingly difficult to just sit still and do nothing when the atmosphere around you is one of getting things done. Having downtime sounds like the easiest thing to do, but when you’re used to always being in faux productivity mode all the time, it gets surprisingly difficult, your brain never shuts down.
So today I’ve worked on a few ideas, explored designs for my portfolio and discussed some ideas about following and maintaining project ideas with Janne, which has been most helpful getting my mind back on track again.
Also spent a huge amount of time again reading Happy City and sleeping in the greatest sofa at Tiger Ted... again.
Night strolls
Every night in Chiang Mai is perfect for a night stroll. Alone or with company, warm nights simply draw into this fine blend between solitude and busy corners of food, people, life.
Walking around into the Old City I noticed two temples, opposite to one another, that I had failed to notice before. It was around midnight and they were absolutely empty; luckily I had my camera with me, but the wrong lens for temple shooting. Still I spent about 30 minutes in solitude just aimlessly wandering between these two temples: Wat Mok Lee and Wat Monthian.
In the meantime I got back there with a good lens, a tripod, and more time, so I will be posting more photos of that later.
Habits
Two weeks in and we’re starting to create daily habits already. More than 2 ou 3 routines per week, for sure, but habits nonetheless.
I always wake up early. Too early. Past 7h20 is already too late. Meditate, shower, breakfast, either in or out. Depends how much I miss brunch.
On the way to Bibie, a mandatory stop at Coffee Wish for a cinnamon cappuccino. An afternoon break at Ristr8to, the best coffee I have ever had in my life. Even the water they give comes at the right temperature for the coffee you’ve ordered (which is usually very warm. Unpleasant, but hey, it’s #science!)
Evening meals are usually eaten at Salad Concept, or at least, the first evening meal... because in Thailand, you never have just one dinner. Oh no, it’s at least two. And I am very okay with that!
Nights usually imply a nightly stroll around the city, either alone or with someone else’s company. We do this thing we call Walk N’ Talk; if you fancy walking and talking with someone, you just post a message on our channel and someone meets you for a walk. How great is that?
Confessions of a remote worker
Yesterday was a very hard day for me.
It’s easy to get both inspired and demotivated by the incredible and very talented nomad community that surrounds you. On one hand, their work is usually admirable. Some of them are firm believers on their own ideas; they develop their own projects with a great deal of passion, motivation and a solid need to simply get them to work — after all that’s how most of them are paying their bills.
And that’s incredibly inspiring. However, on the other hand, the pressure to become such a person is palpable... the pressure I’m putting onto myself, that is. Here’s the thing: I love to work, I love creating things. But I’m just not any good at generating solid and passionate ideas that make me want to stop the rest of my life for, or even work continuously on them for weeks on end. I wish I were that kind of person, but I’m not. I have several mild passions in my life, not one, great and fat one to drive me forwards.
So yesterday after seeing all the great projects everyone else seems to be working on, I became very depressed for not being “one of those people”. This, of course, is a big fat lie, and I’m well aware that it’s my brain trying to sabotage myself. I’m happy working on someone’s idea, and I’m incredibly lucky to be working for such an amazing team as GatherContent — after all, I’m still delivering my work from literally the other side of the world and they’re okay with it.
I’m grateful about this. But it’s also too easy to get carried away with the feeling of new work, new things, new ideas, and new is sometimes a distraction rather a solution.
I officially hit a burnout point yesterday. I’ve been working too hard on both the day job and my side projects, completely failing at mental downtime. Every single waking hour is spent thinking about what to create next, how to be better, how to be like him or her, who managed to find their passions and make a living out of them. And this is a recipe for disaster.
This week, I’m going to slow down. I’m allowing myself to breath more, explore, listen. Less motion, more action.
Wat Phratat Doi Sutep and the National Park
On Saturday we went on a group trip for the day, visiting Wat Phratat Doi Sutep and the National Park. Or at least small parts of it, as seeing it all would take up more than a day.
We booked a guided visit so we didn’t have to worry about driving there and finding the right places to visit, so I happily went where everyone took me. As usual, we had crazy amounts of food during the entire day, and possibly one of the best (and largest) vegetarian meals I’ve ever had in my life. I’ve tried the Hot Sweet and Sour Thai Fish Soup with completely blew my mind away!
The views were astonishing, but that’s pretty much expected. There was as much nature as there was temples, and switching from huge Pagodas (the ones built for the King and the Queen) and temples and waterfalls was diverse enough for a day.
Sadly I brought the wrong lens with me, so I couldn’t take the photos I wanted to take at the Temples. But still everything was just impressive enough, and I’m also working on my FOMO on the photographic department so this was a good exercise! (the photographer in Walter Mitty, anyone?)
The gardens at the National Park were absolutely mind blowing, it feels like Alice in Wonderland every single step you take. No luxury was spared, the amount of flowers, bright and shiny things was beyond belief. The devotion to the King and Queen is something absolutely uncanny here... just don’t ask questions about it.
The day ended at the waterfall, where we spent some time just chilling and wandering around freely. A few monks were also there simply admiring the views. Thailand has such a relaxed feeling to life, even though everyone clearly works hard for a life which doesn’t give you that much back.
Monk Chats
That morning, me and Saaqshi decided to try the Monk Chats in Chiang Mai. These are held in several different temples across the city, but we chose the famous Wat Chedi Luang due to its sheer size and beauty. Plus, it was the only one with Monk Chats happening on an early Thursday morning.
After another massive brunch at the Smoothie Blues (our second home now), we made our way to the temple. These Monk Chats are pretty simple: you simply drop in, grab the attention of a monk or two, and engage in a conversation with them. That simple. The chat can be about whatever you want: they will often ask you questions too and it can be a very comfortable two-way learning street, they seem to be as curious about our Western life just as we are about theirs.
After wandering around the temples a bit and checking out the University, we quickly found a chatty monk: His english name was William, a 24 year old novice Monk who would become an official Monk this year. Both me and Saaqshi ended up talking with him for about 45 minutes, and time flew pretty fast; we chatted about our lives, the Buddhist life in general, and his past. While far from enlightening, it proved to be an incredibly pleasant conversation; I could see myself do this every week. They like to practice their english, and we like a good conversation over wooden tables in the garden listening to the city sounds. Win-win situation.
It was also very interesting to learn about the habits of the Buddhist lifestyle in schools; I don’t think teaching meditation to 9 year old kids in the West would be something that worked well. Too much energy from cereals in the morning to sit still for long.
One thing has to be said about this area in the old city: it was not that touristy.
In fact, it felt pretty quiet. Yes, some tourists could be seen around, but for the most part you could experience a very quiet, zen-like atmosphere. There was definitely no rush is getting out of there (apart from my starting work straight after, which I’m still not fully used to.)
Everything is so brightly and colourful decorated. While it is true that you get used to so many temples very quickly, the decorations and the huge amount of Buddhas everywhere never really ceases to give you a sense of “Wow, this is huge.” Even after two weeks.
The rest of the day was pretty normal: we did our usual Thursday demos at HackerParadise, said goodbye to a few people who were leaving already and hello to a few ones.
Tokens of Buddhist appreciation
I’ve always enjoyed reading and practicing some fundamentals of Buddhism, for the past couple of years or so.
I don’t claim to even remotely be a Buddhist, however if I had to pick something that even vaguely resembled a religion that I had to follow, I am pretty sure I would go with it. The attraction? Mostly the strong core principles that it relies on.
Don’t steal, don’t kill, don’t be an asshole. (I may have tweaked this last one slightly, but works just as efficiently). Despite my attraction to Buddhism, I had never been in a country where its presence was so strong as it is here in Thailand: in Chiang Mai alone, there exists about 300 different temples, which is a lot for such a small city. What’s interesting about this is not the number itself, though, but how the overall feeling of devotion echoes throughout the city as you’re simply minding your everyday business.
In every street corner, outside most houses and even shopping malls, you’ll find small little temples, very bright and colourful decorated with statues of the Buddha, often with what seem to be eternally burning candles inside. Most of them are quite beautiful, and also very old. What staggers me is the sheer respect people have for these: they’re never damaged.
In every other country, it would be only a matter of time until these were either stolen, defaced, ruined, sprayed over, but not in Thailand. They’re sitting there gracefully becoming old, as reminders of the slow passing of time and devotion to something.
They’re even on the entrance of Starbucks and Shopping Malls.
This whole sense of religious and peace makes Chiang Mai an incredibly safe city to walk around. Either during the day or at night, I have never felt in danger or gotten any shady looks from anyone. People wave and nod at you as you’re passing by them, if you pay them attention, which is wonderful to create a sense that you matter, that you’re there, present.
Mae Taeng village.
The whole area around Chiang Mai is... sleepy. I blame it on the extreme heat; everyone walks slowly, the only rush you notice is the traffic rush. Humans are care-free and seem to wander around mostly aimlessly.