Part 14 of A Treatise of Embroidery, crochet, and knitting with illustrations
By George C. Perkins, Anna Grayson Ford, and M. Heminway & Sons Silk co circa 1899
Please note, this book was written in 1899, and as such uses a racist term to refer to the dyes that were used for the thread. If you'd like to read more about this period in time, the term, and the stereotypes that the Victorians had, I've actually linked the wikipedia article here that goes more in depth. It's not the end all be all of it, but it's a good starting place for anyone wanting to educate themselves on the topic.
An indepth description of the diagram is as follows:
The rose stem starts off angled diagonally to the right and is done in H with a pair of thorns, one on either side along the way, done in M. There are three rose leaves in a cluster that have a football sort of shape with squiggly edges. Starting from the base of the leaf and moving in rows to the tip:
Leaf 1 (Leftmost Leaf): S, E D, S C, R(tip).
Leaf 2 (Topmost leaf): R, R N I S, O N R O, I, N(tip).
Leaf 3 (Rightmost Leaf): R S, O S E R, N (illegible but possibly R) O, N(tip).
Moving along the stem upwards beyond the leaves we hit the fork leading off to the second rose, however continuing up the rightmost past leads to the first, larger, and more fully bloomed rose.
The stem connecting to the larger rose on the right is done in E with another thorn done in M. There are three sepals emerging from the rose. Left to right their colouration is as follows:
There is a small section they adjoin that the underside of the rose is visible and done in K.
The rose itself is yellow and starting on the left of the bottom center petal that is almost the width of the blossom and moving upwards in rows towards the center of the bloom:
Petal 1,Row 1. Each of these numbers has a divot in the petal between them forming a scalloped edge:
1, 3(the petal has flipped to reveal it's underside), 3 (the petal has turned back to normal, there is a gap here due to a scallop in the rose petal, 4, 5 (underside), 4(topside), 3 (underside), 3 (topside).
Row 2:
3, 2, 4, here is a continuation of the gap from the previous petal that has shrunken slightly and terminates in a v shaped point in the next row, 3.
Row 3:
2, 4, 6, V point, 5, 4.
Moving clockwise to the next outer petal which is about half the size of the previous one and curves slightly upwards so the rows are now columns:
Petal 2, Column 1:
3, 2 (underside), 3 (topside), 3, 4.
Petal 3, column 1:
1, 1.
Column 2:
2, 2.
Column 3, peeping out from behind the largest front facing center petals edge:
3.
Petal 4, row 1:
1, 1.
row 2:
2.
Petal 5, row 1:
3, 4.
Row 2:
6.
Petal 6, is the last petal for the outer ring and butts up against Petal 1 on the right side. Column 1:
3.
Column 2:
2 (underside), 5(topside), 3, 4.
The inner petals are all held in by two larger petals, the left overlapping the right like a jacket.
Both have the petal lip turned over much like a jacket colar as well, and it's done in 1's.
Left Petal Inner, done in rows from bottom to top. Row 1:
Row 4 is the petal lip on a diagonal slant.
Right Petal Inner, Row 1:
6.
Row 6 is the petal lip also on a diagonal slant but smaller than the left one.
The last 4 petals are arranged with one in the center v of the outer petal "jacket" and the other 3 fanning out behind it.
Starting with bottom petal and working clockwise in rows from bottom to top. Row 1:
6.
4 (topside), 2 (underside), 4 (topside).
Petal 4 is done entirely in 5.
Back down to the fork of the stem, the leftmost fork is done in E that transitions to d with two thorns done in M.
This stem also forks at the top, but the left fork is a set of 5 leaves. There is one on either side that form a matched pair, and then a second matched pair above that, and the stem terminates with a single leaf emerging from the tip.
The Leaves will be in pairs from left to right, from the bottom of the stem to the tip.
Tip is done in C, and then gradients to D, then E, and ends in a touch of H on one side of the leaf at the base.
The Right leaf goes under the stem leading up to the smaller rose and has no lettering, so you can pick one of the colours you used from the other leaf to make it match.
Tip is done in I, then B, Then splits along the center into two different colours, A for the one side and D for the other, before going back to E, and then splitting again into C and K.
Pair 2, Right Leaf.
There is no letter at the tip, instead the leaf is split with the top going from B to A, tip end to base, and the bottom going, D, B, E respectively.
The Top Leaf Goes from A at the tip, to I and B, then to B at the left edge and C, before ending at D at the base.
The stem for the rose passes under Pair 2 Right Leaf and is done in R. With 4 sepals, done in O, R, O at the tips, and R, S, R, at their bases respectively from left to right.
The flower bulb base thing is done in D and K. The rose itself has the front petals left, over right, and thenthe rest of the petals emerging in an alternating fanned fishscale sort of arrangement behind bottom center "jacket" V petal once again.
Starting with the outer left petal, Row 1 from the bottom up:
6.
Row 3:
2, 3, 2(underside).
Outer right petal, row 1:
4, 3.
Row 5:
3(underside), 4(topside), 2.
Center Petal:
5, 1(underside), 6(topside).
Above that is the row of outer petals, the left done in 4 and 3 at the base with 2 at the tip, the center done in 3, and the right done in 4 at the base with 2 at the tip.
Behind them are two other petals in the gaps between the layer in front of them and they are both done in 1.
