If I could select a track to describe my experience in Detroit it would have to be Jay Daniels “Paradise Valley”. For me, it describes the perfectly complicated parallels I sensed in the city. A feeling of decay and desire. A notion of embracement yet reclusively. A city much overlooked yet so influential.
Usually, in the last week of May, us Canadians celebrate a day dedicated to a lady whole basically is the reason why me and my homies from the diaspora are living in the Commonwealth. What up Queen Vic?
Rather than stay in Toronto, me and my partner decided to drive down to Detroit and experience what the city had to offer. One of the main reasons I wanted to go was because of the music scene. House, Hip Hop, Rock and let’s not forget the birth of Techno. My partner, on the other hand, was excited to explore the food scene.
Now let’s get this straight. Detroit is definitely not just a city you just pop up in, hop out and make it look sexy. I really suggest you dig through websites, books, blogs, the socials and figure out what you want to see based on your interests. I’m a pretty spontaneous travel but I knew for sure I wanted to:
1. Eat Detroit Style Pizza ( didn't even get a chance :( but I tried a Corned Beef sandwich was was delicious)
2. Experience House music in an authentic Detroit venue
3. Speak with the locals about how the city has changed and their reasons for sticking around in a city believed to be in "decay".
When we rolled into downtown Detroit, which was literally 5 minutes from the Windsor border, you could just feel the eeriness. Derelict buildings, huge roads with no one on them, and darkness. I couldn’t help but imagine what the city would have been like at its capacity.
The next day consisted of walking to the local bakery for some brekkie. Pretty much what you would expect from any Saturday morning brunch spot. Yep, I’m looking at you Avocado Toast consumers. We then took some time to explore the downtown city area. Quite a few people were in town for the Baseball game close by, but as you would expect in any city’s downtown core on a Saturday, it was pretty quiet. After chatting with a few people in line at Nike and demolishing some donuts, we headed over to the Eastern Market. This market is bloody massive, so arrive early to try and get parking. Walking around you see a lot of visiting from the Detroit Metro area shopping for fruits, veg and most importantly flowers. There’s also a plethora of food spots to check out that offer everything from ribs to old world sandwiches. I opted for the later and had the most cost efficient lunch all for $6 at Seafood World. For some dinner, Ima helped us warm up with some bomb diggity Udon noodles paired with the most refreshing tacos I’ve ever had.
The next day was raining cats, dogs, hamsters and everything else on board Noah’s Arc which was perfect for the museum day we had planned. First stop, breakfast at Brooklyn St. Local.The only place I’ve been to in American so far that knows how to make poutine properly! A short drive north of the city brought us to the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit (MOCAD) in Midtown. Midtown is close to the Wayne University campus with a decent amount of art stores, food spots, and museums. I chopped it up with the bartender at the museum, and we ended up talking for like 40 minutes about the Detroit music scene, outsiders perceptions of the city and dope spots to visit for live music. Just a short 10-minute walk north of MOCAD you’ll find the illustrious Detroit Institute of Art. You could literally spend all day here, most of my time being spent in the Black Contemporary Art section.
After getting soaked in the rain and baptized with puddle water from the Cadillacs and Fords that passed, by we headed East over to The Heidelberg Project. This was a TRIP! Imagine going from a university campus with a Whole Foods and numerous cocktail bars to liquor stores, money marts, and houses that were barely holding themselves up. This is the Detroit most people think of but do not let it be the only impression you have. The project itself sticks out like Danny Brown at a Bar Mitzvah.
After walking around and seeing another Torontonian reppin’ in her problematic Toronto vs. Everybody Tee, we headed back to Corktown for some good ol’ Slows BBQ and drinks at The Sugar House. Both places serve their plates heavy and their drinks strong, so visit either place with your ribs touching and you’ll have a dope time. Homie from the museum recommended a place not to far called Motor City Wine. The was probably my highlight of the trip. As we approached closer and closer we heard the thumping 808′s and the joyful crowd enjoying the patio outside. The place was POPPING on a Sunday. Imagine a house party with hipsters dancing alongside older heads who could have been their Aunts and Uncles. Not to mention the DJ was spinning strictly 12" vinyl too! Overall a dope way to end the night.
For those who have thought about visiting Detroit and for those who have not even considered it, GO NOW. Show respect to the city and it’ll show respect back. Basic mantra of travel fam.
Thanks for reading and enjoy the pictures!
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