21st Escapade, Day 13 part 2
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21st Escapade, Day 13 part 2
21st Escapade, Day 13: Te Anaroa Caves and Langford store in Golden Bay
21st Escapade, Day 13: Escape to the Underworld
The rain finally caught up to us in the night, and we were glad we’d booked a cave tour at Te Anaroa caves for the morning. Our first stop was to browse a few of the stores in Takaka in search of internet, before hitting the road once more. We drove up to the small Rockville to meet Andrea, our guide for the day. It was a private 2-hour tour of the limestone caves. We were equipped with hard hats and Colman lanterns, immediately making us feel like we were in for an authentic experience. Andrea explained that this cave had been discovered in the early 1900s and that tours had been running since the 1910s! They hadn’t changed the cave much, only added some stairs in one place, deciding to use the lanterns instead of outfitting the cave with electrical lighting. The original tours were done by candle light, and as we started our journey through the cave we gained an appreciation for how difficult it would have been.
Passing through narrow passageways (the narrowest affectionately called the “Barber Shop” because it was such a close shave!), we made our way to the back of the cave, its entrance barred by a metal gate. Andrea gave us a smile when she explained that we’d see why they needed to lock it once we were on the other side. The cave walls and ceilings were dotted with shellfish fossils and signatures of cavers before us, some dating back to 1913. Entering the second part of the cave, we were stunned by the limestone formations, getting up and close to the stalactites and stalagmites. It was a surreal experience as Andrea explained how long it took to form these creations. She also told us about the time where she’d been underground when an earthquake had rolled through, describing it as being like a freight train passing over her and her clients’ heads.
Some of the coolest moments were checking out the ancient penguin bones in the ceiling, and seeing the “cathedral pipes” lit up with one of our lanterns. Andrea had an obvious passion for the caves, growing up in them, and letting us know about every slippery rock, tripping hazard, or common places where heads get knocked. The two hours passed quickly, and we were treated to a surprise at the end when we turned out all of our lights and watched the dozens of glow worms at the height of the cave’s entrance, twinkling in the dark.
After the tour we had to say goodbye to the Golden Bay area. We made one last stop at the Langford General store, a cute old post office where the owner refused to be shut down when they changed the post system. We would’ve liked to explore the Nelson area, but the rain kept coming down and most of the shops were closed on late Sunday afternoons. We wound our way through the area outside of Nelson, stopping at the Pelorus Bridge Scenic reserve briefly. Rebekah was shocked to see the river a lot more flooded than usual. Unfortunately we didn’t see any signs of the Hobbit film crew who were due to start production in the area any day of the week.
Making our way to Picton, we drove along the Queen Charlotte Drive, taking us past some of the islands in Malborough Sound. The water was still with clouds hugging the tops of the hills, giving the area a calm feel. After refuelling in Picton, we headed to Aussie Bay, our waterfront campsite for the night, complete with tame ducks trying to get a free meal. We fell asleep to the sound of rain on our camper’s roof.
21st Escapade, Day 12
Pictures from our trip with Abel Tasman Dive! Read more about it here.
21st Escapade, Day 12 continued: Shakes and Sand
Heading back over Takaka hill, we drove into the famous Waikoropupu springs which boast the clearest waters in the world. The entire area is sacred to the local Maori, and there were signs everywhere prophibbiting anyone from making contact with the spring. The algae didymo is a huge concern to NZ waterways and the Department of Conservation was doing all it could to ensure this water did not get infected with the swampy algae. We couldn’t believe how clear the water was; our cameras couldn’t come close to capturing it. The bottom of the springs and all of the plant life were visible, in some places a couple of metres down, and we both resisted the strong urge to jump in and explore it.
Soon we headed back to our campsite for the night at Totaranui beach. The road to the campsite was just as windy as many of New Zealand’s roads, but there was a lot more traffic than most backroads. The campsite is the biggest in the country, holding almost 1000 people in peak season. Thankfully it wasn’t that busy for us, so we picked a site and got a warm supper ready. As Rebekah was cooking a curry, she felt a familiar rumble underneath her feet. She couldn’t quite believe it was an earthquake until it jolted enough to make the stove top wobble. We later found out it was a 5.7 centred 60km away from Picton (over 100km away from where we were camping). When the food was ready, we took it and our Monteith’s apple cider down to the beach to enjoy the view, despite the cloudy skies. Definitely a refreshing end to the day.
21st Escapade, Day 12: Diving into the Cook Straight with Abel Tasman Dive
Waking up early and organised (for once), we drove back over the big Takaka Hill to get to Stephen’s cove where we were meeting up with Abel Tasman Dive’s boat for Kathy’s dive tour. Rebekah wasn’t sure whether she’d come on boat but with some encouragement from Sue from the dive company, jumped aboard. Sue gave us a quick tour of the national park, including the famous Split Apple Rock and some of the seal colonies along the golden shores. We headed out to Tonga Island Marine Reserve where Mark, the dive instructor, was teaching a group of eight their final lessons for a dive certification course. We pulled the boat and all of the gear into a small bay in the reserve, and Rebekah set up camp while Sue and Kathy started prepping gear for the day’s excursion.
Rebekah couldn’t believe how much gear was necessary for the dives, or how heavy some of it was. Kathy was pretty keen to get in the water, and soon Mark took her out into the cove and around the point to show her the life below the surface. Unfortunately neither of us had an underwater camera, but Kathy's description of the dive sounded idyllic. From monster crayfish to a seal diving past her, her 45 minutes underwater was quite the adventure.
While the divers were in the water, Sue and Rebekah went exploring, running into some of the local seals in the area. One of them had a nasty gash across its face, making us wonder how it was able to deal with the pain and the piece of flesh hanging off its face. The beach itself was a perfect spot to relax, nap and catch up on some reading.
An hour or so later, Rebekah saw Kathy and Mark swim back around the point, a smile on Kathy’s face. It was easy to tell that Mark was a good instructor; enthusiastic, approachable and very knowledgeable about the area. He and Sue kindly invited us to drop by their place in Nelson that night; however we were planning on spending the night on Totaranui beach. Fully satisfied from the day in the water and on the beach, we reluctantly headed back to shore, knowing that the best way to experience Abel Tasman is on the beach or in the water.
Abel Tasman Dive kindly provided us with a discounted rate for this experience.
21st Escapade pics from Day 9, part 2
21st Escapade Pics from Day 9, part 1
Learning to Re-start
This is a reflection on my 10-month exchange at the University of Canterbury in Christchurch, New Zealand. Feel free to read or pass over it as you please.
Looking at my bags packed next to my bed, it's hard to believe that in a few hours I'll be flying over the Tasman Sea. Typically in the past few months this (somewhat chaotically) organised packing would lead me to heading up to the North Island for another kiwi adventure, but this time it's my turn to say goodbye.
Now, I could veer off here into the realm of cliches, along the lines of hundreds before me who have experienced exchanges or study abroad programs and felt moved or changed by their encounters (and rightly so!). The temptation is there, but I'll try to keep my version simple, honest, and relatively cliche free (where possible).
I learned a lot about humility and generosity this year. Aside from the quakes, most of the Kiwis I met are always willing to give someone a hand when they need it; whether it's grabbing someone a beer, giving a hitch-hiker a lift, or helping fix a flat tire. Add into the mix massive national disasters, and it was quite clear that the nation was ready to help in whatever way they could - from sending baked goods down to the emergency workers and volunteers, to donating money towards organisations helping on the ground or with the households. Students dove into the uncertain situation, shovelling silt for neighbours and strangers, rallying together to try to make life a little easier for others around them. Even those who went away, like myself, were drawn in with fundraising and letting those outside the city know what kind of help was needed.
To me, Kiwis have a special kind of persistence. Living on the edge of the Pacific at the mercy of winds and fronts that change the weather almost instantly in some places, with a small population of 4.4 million means that the Kiwis have to be self-sufficient to a degree that many other countries never experience. Yes, they are still affected by the global markets and trade, but when it comes down to it, the are a small group of islands in the vast (not-so-warm-part-of-the) Pacific. After the February earthquake the catchphrase became kia kaha - stay strong. I didn't really understand its depth until a few months later, when I realised how slow the rebuild process was going to be. The paperwork and legal discussions involved in reconstruction is mind-boggling to me, with so many players seemingly caught up in their webs of conditions and obligations, slowing the process to a crawl, leaving the locals waiting for definitive answers. Communities grew stronger and were challenged by these wait times, with some members holding fast, and others deciding to pursue other opportunities elsewhere that would provide a better base and emotional/financial/physical support for them. Nonetheless, there was a quiet determination within Kiwis around the country saying "This will not beat us." This spirit of (not-so) quiet determination and faith resurfaced during the Rugby World Cup and the massive celebrations after the All Blacks' victory in the finals.
Despite the unexpectedly shaky start to my time here, there were many highlights throughout my life at the University of Canterbury and outside of academia. I'm not going to list them here; I don't think that's the point. This was one of the most flexible academic years I've ever had, and it took me a while to learn how to balance having extra time, and figuring out where it was best spent. Some days this was having a quiet day, catching up on reading (school-related or otherwise) and meeting with friends, others it was heading into the community and gardening for a few hours, or even heading off on a 4-day adventure with a group of strangers on a tour bus. It really cemented in my mind how university and life outside of the books connect, particularly in cities like Christchurch that have undergone a natural disaster where it's impossible to isolate the areas of a person's life that has been affected by the quakes.
Today, on my last afternoon here, I took my cousin on a wander around the city centre. The Cashel Street Mall re-opened around a month earlier, but I hadn't had a chance to check it out. Standing in the middle of the tram tracks where I'd last stood on February 20th (two days before the big shake) was eerie. Parking lots took the places of buildings, and familiar store names were now hanging from retrofitted shipping containers instead of traditional storefronts. The area looked good, and it's a great start for the new face of the city, but it's an indication of how far there still is to go. Walking 200m to the edge of the cordon, and peering over the fence is a huge indication of this. There are dozens of buildings waiting to be torn down or reinforced, and the gardens of some of the streets have started to grow wild among the debris around them. The city council is now running walking tours around the edge of Cathedral Square on weekends, letting everyone get a chance to see the city centre's damage firsthand. There will be no shortage of emotions on those walks; it'll be a reminder and an inspiration, bringing back the painful events but offering an area that can be turned into something new. The most important part it seems, is taking it all in, step by step, and deciding where to go next.
So, with my airport shuttle pulling into the drive, I look to Christchurch, to the rest of New Zealand, and the people I've met in the city and around the country, and say thank you. Thanks for teaching me what it means to wait, what it means to be flexible, what it means to be a backpacker, and most of all what it takes to restart.
21st Escapade Update
Hi folks,
We've been having patchy internet and computer issues over the past few days and will be playing catch up from here on in. Sadly, we handed in our keys this afternoon to the wonderful Escape team, sad to see Hibiscus go. We didn't want to disrupt the flow of the posts, so will continue when we get a chance. For now, we're getting some sleep before an early morning flight to Australia, where Kathy heads off to a med placement and Rebekah will be adventuring along the coast, ending up with seeing her extended family. Photos will be up as soon as possible.
Thanks for reading!
21st Escapade, Day 11: Paradise is just over the Hill
Kathy was very excited the morning we headed off to Abel Tasman National Park. It was a quick drive from where we'd parked for the night; only an hour or so to the entrance to Abel Tasman: Motueka. The whole area was very cute, but we passed on the opportunity to watch a Santa Claus parade later that afternoon, instead choosing to head up over the Takaka hill to check out some of the views, lookoffs and anything else we could find along the way.
Along the way we were tempted by the fresh fruit, happily picking up some fresh cherries (Rebekah was happy as she missed Canadian cherry season). Both of us were quite surprised when we started ascending Takaka Hill, neither of us realising how steep or how high the road went as it turned in tight, winding switchbacks up the slope. After a few brief stops at various lookouts overlooking the Motueka area, we found ourselves at the entrance to Harwood's Hole, NZ's largest drop into a cave at 183m. The road in was quite the feat, narrow, gravel and very windy. We laughed as we caught up with 2 other Escape vans on the way in, more than we'd encountered on any other road in such a short period of time. The biggest surprises, however were yet to come.
As the road leveled out, we found ourselves in a small meadow with beech trees. Next to one patch was a construction site, which we quickly realised was going to be one of the sets for the Hobbit films (the third one we'd run into during the trip!) as the person at the i-Site had warned us the road may be closed due to filming. Taking a few quick pictures at the bare outlines of the buildings, we headed into the forest for a hike to see the massive hole.
To be truthful, we didn't get to see the pit plunging over 100m into the ground. There were warning signs everywhere about how dangerous the edges were, so we walked up to its base, got a glimpse of the drop before heading up to the other lookout. We weren't in proper climbing shoes however, and the very sharp, slippery rocks proved to be a challenge as we tried to navigate ourselves to the viewpoint. After reaching the cliff's ridge, we decided to enjoy the view and not worry about peering into the abyss. A good decision on our part.
The trip out along the 11km windy road became a bit interesting with a construction truck barrelling towards us at a high speed, but thankfully we were still in the field area so could turn down another rough track. Leaving the top of Takaka hill behind, we headed towards more switchbacks and down into the Golden Bay area.
After checking in with our site for the night, we headed to the DOC Totaranui campsite where we planned to spend the next day. We decided that we wouldn't make it to Wellington the next day, instead deciding to let Kathy have a chance to scuba dive in the national park - one of the things on her to do list while in the country. Totaranui beach was beautiful, at the top of the National Park, and was in a beautiful light as we ran through the golden sands. Our visit was brief, however as we wanted to catch the sunset on the other side of the peninsula.
Picking up a quick fish n' chips from very friendly locals, we headed to Wharariki beach at Farewell spit. We were met by the best sunset Rebekah's seen throughout here time in New Zealand, with the clouds boasting many colours over the sand formations and archways in the water. Absolutely stunning.
That night we spoiled ourselves by staying at a Top 10 site that had electricity and SHOWERS. Both of us thoroughly enjoyed the warm water.
21st Escapade, Day 10: The West Coast in One Day
We woke up early to overcast skies typical of the West Coast. We weren't sure how far we would travel during the day, so we head off to the glaciers, with Fox Glacier coming into view with a small patch of sun on it. It took less than an hour to hike to 200m away from the glacier, passing a few of the glacier tours on the way, and working ourselves over the rocky ground and balancing on rocks over glacial streams.
The glacier itself was quite impressive (with Kathy once again commenting on its shades of white and blue) although the most impressive and steep part could only be viewed from the road to our campsite. One glacier for the day wasn't enough for us as we paid a visit to Franz Josef Glacier as well. It was a lot steeper from the viewing site (a mere 100m away from its start) with a massive cave at its entrance.
By this point the sun had decided it would burn through the cloud, and we had another surprisingly sunny day on the West Coast. We took a brief break at Hokitika, wandering around and checking out some of the jade/greenstone shops that the area is known for. The small town was quite cute, with a very, very nice beach.
Heading further North to the town of Greymouth, we decided to indulge in a brewery tour at Monteith's, one of the South Island's most famous brews. After sampling 6 different beers and their cider (including our favourites the Summer Brew with a hint of ginger and the Celtic, darker beer), we felt we had a good taste of the West Coast brews.
It's worth noting that the city centre of Greymouth is one of the most difficult areas to navigate, with roads going at all angles. Thankfully we didn't get turned around too badly, but were definitely surprised at the difficulty for such a small town.
The bartender/tour host at Monteith's had suggested we spent the night near the Fox River, underestimating how far we usually travel in the evenings, but we decided to press on towards Nelson and the Abel Tasman. We made the obligatory stop at the Pancake rocks (unfortunately we weren't there in time to see the blowhole go), and enjoyed the sunshine on the rugged coast. As we entered the Nelson Lakes district, we enjoyed the last of the sun in the valleys, before stopping at Kawatiri Gorge campsite for the night. Previously we'd planned to stop at one of the lakes, but were told that the sandflies were really bad - even the DOC pamphlet warned against the "ferocious sandflies". As we were suffering from enough bites already, we avoided that fate and stayed at the site next to the road before heading to the beautiful Abel Tasman park the next morning.
21st Escapade, Day 9: Housekeeping to Glaciers
After an adrenaline-filled day skydiving, we decided to spend some time and get a few mundane but necessary chores done. We had a punctured tire the day before so had to get that repaired, laundry to do and a number of blog duties to catch up on, so we spend the better part of the morning in Queenstown.
Finally, after lunch we headed towards the West Coast. Rebekah had previously warned Kathy that West Coast weather was notorious for being wet and wild, so we braced ourselves for the wet weather. Thankfully the weather gods smiled on us and gave us a perfectly clear day as we made our way to the Tasman sea.
First stop was the lakeside town of Wanaka, the local's favourite choice over Queenstown, where we paid a visit to the Puzzling World. We didn't have enough time to try out the 3D maze, but the illusion rooms were incredible, messing with our sense of balance, space and time. Watching a waterfall flow (seemingly) uphill was one of the biggest mind benders in the place.
Making our way through Haas pass and Mt. Aspiring National Park, we found ourselves surrounded by the familiar beech forests and mountain peaks. We did a quick walk to the Blue Pools, enjoying the colour of the glacial water.
We had a lot of interesting encounters with locals when we finally reached the coast, receiving both whitebait patties and venison, the former from a lovely lady at a whitebait company who cooked our patties fresh for us and gave us good suggestions for places to stop along the coast. Needless to say, the food was delicious (Kathy enjoyed the venison as well).
Our luck continued as we reached the Fox Glacier, with Mt. Cook appearing in view. Watching the sun set near the beach and the fading light colour the mountains was an incredible view. We even made it to Lake Matheson in time to have a quick view of Mt. Cook reflected in the still water. Our campsite for the night was a perfect beach camp, where we enjoyed a quick meal before falling fast asleep.
Cathedral Cove Sea Shuttle tours, part 3
Cathedral Cove Sea Shuttle tour, part 2
21st Escapade, pics from our experience with NZone skydiving!
Will post their professional pics in the air in the next few days.
21st Escapade, Kayaking in Doubtful Sound with Adventure Kayak and Cruise, part 2