travel talk: sail croatia
Once upon a time, I was having dinner with friends in Melbourne when I received a message from my sister saying she had booked us onto a Croatia sailing trip. 8 days cruising our way down the magical Dalmatian Coast from Split to Dubrovnik, and it gets better – we were doing it on a pirate ship!
It was the first part of our trip that we booked and we kind of worked everything else around it. It was also the part I was most looking forward to, a week of cruising between stunning Croatian islands, waking up in the morning and rolling onto the deck to sun bake, pulling up into secluded coves and leaping from the deck into warm, crystal clear water. Oh and not having to drag my suitcase anywhere for whole 8 days. Bliss.
We arrived in Split the day before our tour started, had dinner by the waterfront and watched the 2Cellos play an open air concert. The next morning we met our tour group at a café near the water, it wasn’t hard to pick which boat was ours, apparently it’s the only pirate style ship that does tours in Croatia. Then our sailing started!
Day One | Split – Makarska
After meeting our amazing group, tour leader and crew we had lunch while sailing to Makarska. We then had our first swimming stop, stopping the boat in the middle of the ocean with no other boats around. A-mazing!
That night we went to a club called Deep, which is built into a cave on the edge of the ocean.
Day Two | Makarska - Brac
Day two we sailed into Brac, where we had a walking tour then the afternoon to ourselves. Some people headed off to a winery tour but we decided to walk along the coast and discovered Borak Beach and spent the afternoon having cocktails on the beach. #winning!
That night we had a Pirate Party on our boat, the highlight being the crew teaching the guys how to play a local game they all played at school – it was kinda like leap frog and totes hilarious to watch!
Day Three | Makarska – Hvar
I had high expectations about Hvar; whenever you tell people you are going to Croatia everyone talks about Hvar and its bars and clubs and how Prince Harry hangs out there. I gotta say, despite the super high expectations which almost doomed it to disappointment, I really liked it! I think there are prettier places in Croatia - but not by much - and I had bigger nights out in Croatia – but, again, not by much.
We went to Kiva and had cocktails from buckets and shots called Tequila Boom Booms which come complete with helmets. From there we headed to a huge open air club in the trees called Veneranda (where Harry infamously went for a dip)
Day Four | Hvar – Korcula
After another hard day of sunbaking, swimming and eating, we spent the evening in Korcula. It’s worth a visit for Massimo Bar alone; its a bar on the top of an old tower, you climb up a ladder to get to the bar and they bring up the drinks on pulleys. I did wonder how many people had drunkenly fallen down the ladder or off the side of the tower. Eeepp!
Rumour has it when Croatia transitions into the EU, Massimo will need to close as it doesn’t entirely meet safety regulations. So, glad we got to go while it was still there and didn't kill ourselves.
Day Five | Korcula – Mljet
I felt like a bit of a broken record in Croatia, everywhere we went I kept saying ‘ohh it’s so pretty, this is the prettiest place we have been to!’ only to say it again at the next place we stopped. Now that it’s all over I can look back and say that Mljet National Park was definitely the most stunning place we went. You have to drive inland through the national park then hike for a while but you end up at the most beautiful lake surrounded by thick forest.
Day Six | Mljet – Slano
In Slano we had another party on the ship, this time a Cowboys and Indians themed party. It was a good thing we were nearing the end of our trip because, of all the nights, this ended up being my biggest.
Day Seven | Slano – Dubrovnik
On the way to Dubrovnik we made our last swimming stop at a secluded bay with no other boats in site and caves you could swim out to and explore. Then we docked at our last stop, (booo!) Dubrovnik. The old town of Dubrovnik is absolutely a-mazing! It’s what I imagine an old town would be if Disney built it; it’s staggeringly beautiful,surrounded by beaches and mountains and perfectly intact after time and war should have ravished it. You can walk the complete city walls, which run 1940 meters around the old town but it was OMG hot when we arrived that we decided to skip particular activity.
After a walking tour of the city and our final group dinner, we all went out to a bar built into the city walls called to Revelin.
Day Eight | Dubrovnik
After saying our goodbyes we got booted off the ship and bused it into the Old Town where we had booked another night.
Pack for the Parties
Check out your itinerary before you leave and make note of any themed parties. We were really unprepared and struggled to find something pirate-ie or cowboy and indian-e.
Drinking + Eating on the Boat
Outside food and drink was not allowed on the boat. This wasn't a problem until we discovered that drinks on the boat cost two or three times the mainland price. Also, a couple of guys on the boat asked for sandwiches one afternoon and discovered on the last day that these had been added to their bill.
Optional Extras
Other than walking tours, you need to pay for everything that happens off the boat. I was prepared for this but there were a couple of things that we had to pay for that I kinda think should be included. One such example, we couldn't dock in Hvar until late in the evening because of crowding. In order to get into town for our walking tour and dinner we had to catch a water taxi at an additional fee. I'm really not sure that counts as an optional extra. Moral of the story, bring a little more cash than you think you will need.
Tip the Crew + Tour Leader
At the end of the tour you're expected to tip the crew and tour leader. I loved both our crew and tour leader so was more than happy to fork over the money, but it did come as a bit of a surprise and not everyone had cash on hand for this. I tipped 250 kuna each which worked out to about $40 AUD
Power Outlets
On order to conserve energy and costs, the boat only has power while the engine is on. This means that nothing will charge while you're docked over night - make sure your camera batteries are charged before you arrive.
Pirates were not comfortable
So, turns out sailing on a recreated pirate ship has its ups and downs – on the plus side it’s easy to find among the rows of matching catamarans, even after a few too many drinks. On the downside, pirate ships are not built for comfort. Who would have thought, right? Our room had two single bunk beds with just enough room for one suitcase on the floor, the second had to be placed on one of the beds during the day and stacked on the floor after we had gotten into bed at night. Oh and did I mention the shower was over the toilet? Fun times.
Travel Talk vs Sail Croatia, Busabout, Top Deck etc
By far the best reason to go with Travel Talk is the people. Our delightful tour manager and amazing local crew completely made up for anything the ship lacked. They were so much fun and took such good care of us. Plus, our group was brilliant! Travel Talk mostly seem to attract antipodean expats living in London who are also a little older than the typical Sail Croatia/Contiki crowd. For someone who was staying on in London after their trip (i.e ME!) it was perfect because I arrived in London with a ready-made handful of friends who I adore!
I really, really enjoyed the week. I totally get why Aussies are flocking to Croatia at the moment.
p.s you might also like to read about my trip to paris or cannes + nice