West Dunbartonshire Heritage

WDC Heritage is part of West Dunbartonshire Council Libraries & Cultural Services and provides museum, exhibition, local history and archive services.

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Book now to explore your archive and learn how to read early Scottish handwriting! Thursday 19 November, 2pm @ Dumbarton Heritage Centre

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Monday. 21 Sept Got up at half past four and having breakfasted we were off by five. Much pleased with the attendance etc. of the Hotel Angelo. We proceeded along a beautiful carriage road very comfortably although the rain for the first time falling heavily. As we ascended the Ticino the gorge gradually became narrower till at last the course of the river was like a mill race - rolling and tumbling down a rocky and precipitous bed, the colour of the water is most beautiful, being of a fine blue and every few reaches lathered into a foam. The road is a wonderful piece of engineering. The gorge is just a rent in the mountain – the old carriage road which was in the bottom of the defile, being swept away in 1834 – a new one is now constructed out of reach of inundations. It is zigzagged up the face of the rock and in one place passes through 5 tunnels. After passing Airolo where we got a relay we proceeded up the pass – among the mist which almost completely shut out all view. Between Airolo and the Hospice the whole ascent is by a series of 28 zigzags, most beautifully engineered. As we were now at a considerable height it became very cold and we were glad of all the rugs and wrappers we had. Between 10 and 11 we reached the summit of St. Gothard, a height of 6,808 feet. The Hospice is situated here and also a small inn. Just here there is a small lake in which the Ticino up whose banks we had come rises, and in the other direction the Reuss runs down to the lake of Lucerne. The Rhone and the Rhine rise very near to this also. Having reached the summit we proceeded down at a rapid rate until we reached Hospenthal about 2 hours from the summit. Here we had dinner. Intending to have visited the Rhone Glacier and the Grimsel Hospice, but as the rain still came down in torrents and the mist was thick we decided to remain all night and to go on to Lucerne on Tuesday. We telegraphed for rooms and having had tea we went to bed hoping for an improvement of the weather in the morning. Tuesday. 22 Sept On getting up at half past six this morning we found the ground white with snow and sleet still falling. The morning being very cold, having dressed as warmly as our limited outfit would permit, each with two flannel shirts on; we had breakfast and started for Flüelen at half past seven. All our plaids and wrappers were brought into requisition to keep us warm, but as we proceeded and began to leave the snowy regions the temperature rose and we found it more genial. The drive down this valley leading down from the St. Gothard pass is very fine, and though the summits of most of the lofty hills were shrouded in mist, leaving the grandeur to be supplied by our imagination in keeping with what we could see, but several times the mist drew aside for several minutes like a curtain and disclosed to us most gorgeous scenery. The River Reuss in several places falls over a very considerable height and being confined in a very narrow channel – a deep cut between weather and water worn granite rocks it tosses and foams till it rises in spray all around.  The road is wonderfully engineered on this side as well as on the other. Having zigzagged up the steep face of the rock, which is in many places tunnelled through, guarding the road from glaciers and slides of stones from above. These are several beautiful spans of bridges across deep and roaring chasms and in many places the old and dangerous mule path is seen winding in and out among the rocks by the very edge of the torrent. As we descended the scenery gradually and beautifully softened, wood beginning to grow from the rocky banks and patches of beautiful green grass and several kinds of produce, appearing here and there, and fruit trees soon make their appearance, walnuts, cherries, pears and apples. About halfway down the valley we stopped for half an hour to rest and feed our horses at Amsteg, a prettily situated village, just above it there is a very fine waterfall. Having started again we continued down the beautiful valley which is here very richly wooded, and very grand, though below glacier land.

Between eleven and twelve we reached Altdorf, the capital of the Canton Uri, and the scene of the exploits of the Patriot Tell. In the market place there is a colossal statue raised to his memory on the spot where he shot the apple from his son’s head. A little further on we reached Flüelen where having discharged our part of the contract and had some coffee, we got the steamer to Lucerne at 1.15. On starting the view was very magnificent. The rain cleared off and the sun shone out driving the mists in beautiful wreaths up the rocky sides of the mountain. As we went on towards Lucerne we passed on the right hand side, the eastern shore of the lake, at the foot of the Aschenburg a little platform of rock called the Tellenplatte on which stands Tells Chapel. This is said to be the point where Tell sprung on shore out of the boat in which after his exploit of shooting, he was being carried to Küssnacht. The chapel is lined with old faded paintings of scenes in the delivery of Switzerland. This we are told was erected only 31 years after his death, in 1388 by the canton of Uri in presence of more than 100 persons who had known him personally, which goes far to prove that the story of his life is not a mere romance. Once a year mass is said here and attended by the people in boats.

The lake here is 800 feet deep and all along of a most beautiful colour. The rocks all along run sheer into the lake, and hardly anywhere is the shore of a shelving character. Crossing from side to side a beautiful view of the lake is obtained and the variety of outline is grand and charming. On reaching nearly half way the Rigi comes into sight. Uncle Rob and I ascended this in 1861. There are two large hotels on the summit (5676 ft. high or 4270 ft. above the lake) which may be reached by about 5 ½ hours climbing. The view from the top of this is charming and the general routine is to be on top to see the sunset and get up at 4 to see sunrise, if the weather be fine both are gorgeous spectacles. Weggis is the point on the lake from which the ascent is generally made – there are 3 other routes. After passing this Mont Pilatus is seen towering up. A hotel has been of late built on or near the summit. It is only two years since travellers began to ascend it and a mule path was made. After passing Weggis the rain again came down and continued till we got to Lucerne at half past 3, when it cleared up a little. We found rooms ready for us, at Schweizenhoff, having telegraphed from Hospenthal. We soon got our letters from the post and were glad to have good news from home.

Having ascertained that table d’hote was at 5 o’clock we went to see the most interesting of the sights of Lucerne. The monument to the memory of the Swiss Guards who fell defending the Royal Family of France in one of the bloody massacres after the first French Revolution Aug 10 1792. It is situated a little distance from Lucerne on the Zurich road. Designed by Thorvaldsen and executed in a masterly style by Ahorn a sculptor of Constance. It represents a lion of colossal size, wounded to death with a spear sticking in its side yet endeavouring in its last gasp to protect a shield bearing the fleur de lys of the Bourbons, which it holds in its paws. This is hewn out of the living sandstone rock and is 28 feet long & 18 high – beneath it are the names of the officers who fell. After seeing this we hurried back to dinner and found a very large assemblage gathered. After dinner we went and visited the old wooden bridge ornamented with a great many faded pictures and saw some other parts of town.  

Wednesday 23 Sep.

Neufchatel – Paris-Lion   home

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Sunday. 20 Sept We had all a very sound sleep this morning and got up quite refreshed and after breakfasting sauntered about 2 miles up the Ticino & choosing a nice spot below a spreading chestnut we read and chatted till the afternoon and reveled in the magnificent scenery. Close to Faido there is rather a fine waterfall that of the Piumogna. Returning to the Hotel (Angelo) we had a very capital dinner & took a walk through the village in the evening. We saw in one place a jovial meeting with dancing to music and drinking going on at a great rate. Thus the natives pass the Sabbath evenings.

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Saturday.19 Sept Rose at 6 and saw the town, passing the market place where a great business was being transacted in all sorts of merchandise from fruit and fish to boots and shoes, the latter of which are made entirely of wood just a sort of sandal. The best fish in the lake are called agonis and have a very delicate flavor. Having obtained a carriage and pair we set off for Bellinzona at 10 where after a beautiful drive we reached the top of Maggiore and proceeded up the banks of the Ticino which is a very beautiful stream. We reached Bellinzona after a very hot and dusty drive at half past one. Having lunched we made a contract for a carriage to take us across the St. Gothard pass to Huelew. We started about two. We enjoyed very much some fruit, grapes and green figs which we had bought in the morning in the Lugano market place. Bellinzona is situated on the left of the Ticino; above it rise three fine old castles which give it a very picturesque appearance as you approach. We passed two small villages Osogna and Biasca and then Bodio where we changed horse and carriage. The road was still very dusty but the drive along the banks of the Ticino was beautiful and grand. Between Bellinzona and Bodio the driver of our carriage was a very decided Garibaldiau, belonging to Nice, who amused us much by his opinions with regard to Napoleon, Victor Emmanuel & Garibaldi. We also saw a fine looking body of Swiss troops on parade – nearly choked with dust. We reached Bodio between four and five and getting very soon a relay we went on ton Faido where our journey for the day was to end. Here we were all enchanted with the beautiful groves of chestnut trees. Beautiful trees of between 30 and 40 feet in circumference. The branches gnarled and knotted and the fine contrast between the dark green & autumnal yellow of the foliage and the bright green of the dense clusters of chestnuts is very striking. The walnut trees also are very beautiful and we all admired much the beautiful scarlet foliage of the wild cherry. We reached Faido a little after 7 having enjoyed our drive very much the day like those preceding being very fine. Having telegraphed from Bellinzona we found dinner and rooms ready for us all very good and comfortable. We discovered in the carriage that brought us to Bellinzona from Lugano we had left a flask, an old friend and as our hopes of recovering it well rather slender we sadly gave it up as lost! Telegraphing however to Bellinzona was a last resort and we were amazed by its being handed into our bedroom early next morn.

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Friday 18 September

We got up early and having looked about the town which is an old one and contains some good specimens of medieval architecture. It stands on the border of the lake. After having breakfasted we got the steamer “Ullione” starting up the lake at 8.30. The morning was very beautiful and the lake looked very enchanting. The lake is about 40 miles long. Its south extremity is divided into two branches by the promontory of Bellagio at the bottom of one of which lies Como from which we started. The beauty of scenery opening as we ascended was great. The banks are richly wooded interspersed here & there by lone & lofty rocks. The whole shore is thickly dotted with villas and villages. The steamer crosses from one to another zigzagging up the lake, this affording a beautifully varied view. The head engineer on board here we found to be a Scotchman from Glasgow. He has been here for 30 years and was very glad to see us and hear about his native place. Having sailed up to Colico – the head of the lake and their had dinner in the Hotel we started down the lake again at 3 and in 1 ½ hours arrived at Menaggio where we landed and got two small carriages for ourselves and a third for baggage and the whole cavalcade started off for Porlezza on the Lago Lugano: The view as we ascended the hill above Menaggio and saw Como lying below us was most beautiful and is said to be the finest on the lakes. Sunset came on as we drove over and the tinging of the richly wooded barks and of the bare peaks rising in strong contrast behind was a most enchanting scene. The drive was very enjoyable. We bought on the way some green figs which have a most delicate flavor and are a very fine fruit. Reaching Porlezza about 6 we engaged a boat, one of those in which the men row standing, and which are covered with awning during the day. Just as we set sail the moon rose and lighted us cheerily on our way. This lake we all thought as fine as any others, it is more rugged and has less cultivation on its banks than either Como or Maggiore and its grandeur is increased by the greater solitude, its shores not being lined with villas as those of other lakes. Its length is 20 miles: near the Lugano end Mont Salvadore, an extinct volcano juts into the lake, and from its summit a magnificent view may be obtained. Half of this lake is in Lombardy and half in Switzerland. On arriving near 9, after a delightful sail we walk to the Hotel Du Pone but could not get accommodation. We however got tolerable rooms at the Hotel Suisse where we staid till next morning.

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Thursday 17. Sept Having risen at seven and ordered breakfast at 9 we went on to see how the town looked by daylight. We entered the Cathedral and were amazed at its size and magnificence. After walking through some streets we went back to the hotel. Intending after breakfast to get a guide for the town. As soon as we finished we sent to the Post Office for our letters which we got in a short time. I got one which was very welcome, but found to my disappointment that there were none from home, owing probably to their not having been posted in time. We sent word to forward any letters to Lucerne.

Having got our guide who spoke English tolerably we went first to see a gallery of paintings almost all modern, many very fine, also some fine statuary. Our limited time however did not permit of our staying long there so we went off to the Cathedral to see it more thoroughly. It was built in 1383 and is altogether of white marble and of a gigantic size. On entering one feels quite bewildered with the stupendous magnificence of the building. The floor is marble of various colours and patterns. The roof is marble most beautifully flowered and fretted. Several most beautifully coloured glass windows of a tremendous size. We found that high mass was to be performed in half an hour so we ascended to the summit of the highest pinnacle by a weary ascent of 508 steps. The view from the top is very fine, from where you stand the vast plains of Italy stretch away all round. The various battlefields of the late campaigns all visible and if the day be clear the Alps. A magnificent rampart near their snowy tops behind. We found it rather hazy so the view was somewhat limited. The outside of the Cathedral is in fine preservation and is in many places being renovated and additional carved figures of life size placed in several points. 40 are said to be added every year. On descending we found part of the service was over. We seated ourselves and saw the remainder. The church was filled with smoke and odour of incense and after a little time when the music began, the swelling of the choir, and the deep pealing of the fine organ was very beautiful and grand. Immense numbers of priests are required to keep up the service here. We saw them in all sorts of [?]. There are inside as well as outside as many very fine sculptures, statues and medallions and some beautiful wood carving and bronze work. We also saw the confessionals, some of them at work.

After the service was finished we got a carriage and drove to an old church, which used to be part of a convent, where the inquisition was held, but is now made into barracks (with the exception of the hall where the fresco is) and saw the original of the “Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. It is a fresco and now very much defaced. What remains however of it is very beautiful and soft and the different expressions and attitudes are most wonderfully portrayed. We then drove to a triumphal arch built of white marble very similar to that in the Place Carousel  in Paris. Then we visited the amphitheatre which is built in the old Roman style in the open air. It is sometimes flooded and made into a small lake for regattas. After driving partly round and through the lush parts of town which are beautifully laid out with sort of boulevards. Having visited the Post office we went to a Caffe in the outskirts situated in a beautiful garden and had lunch in the open air – the day was exceedingly hot and the shade here was very grateful. We then returned to the hotel and after writing some letters and packing up we came down and had dinner the Table d’Hote which was very well served. The Earl of Shaftsbury was staying in the house and he and his family were at Table d’Hote.

Dinner was over by a little after six. We then got a carriage and drove to the Railway Station which is outside the town. The evening was very fine and we saw a beautiful sunset. We got tickets for Camerlata which is about 2 miles from Como. On arriving there we got an omnibus which took us a very pleasant drive by moonlight to the Hotel de L'aige at Como where having got rooms and tea we went to bed.

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Wednesday 16 Sept Got up early and having breakfasted, we hired a gondola to take us to see some of the lake before leaving for Arona. We were very well pleased with the hotel. About 10 we started, and having passed Isola Pescatori we landed at Isola Bella, the property along with other 3 islands and residence of Count Bonomeo. In the 17th century it was converted from a bare rock to a seemingly tropical garden of beauty. All the earth on the island was brought from a distance. It consists of ten terraces covered with statues and trees of all sorts and sizes – oranges and many tropical fruits grow outside with cactus, aloe etc. A tree in the garden is pointed out with some letters on its bark where Napoleon is said to have cut the word “Battaglia” a short time before Marengo.  The palace which is a fairy like and splendid structure is liberally shown to strangers, and contains many fine paintings in the gallery and elsewhere. Also many antiques and very valuable monuments.  Below there is a grotto beautifully laid out. The walks are lovely the beautiful green water of Maggiore and the view in all directions is most lovely – softly wooded and sloping hills and villages dotting the lake. After remaining here for more than an hour we set sail again and having cruised about for some time and admired the beautiful lake we landed at Intra, a few stations up the lake, with our baggage which we had brought with us, and here at 2.20 we got the steamer for Arona. In sailing down, the steamer being very comfortable and covered with an awning to protect from the heat of the sun which was very great. We discovered many resemblances between Maggiore and Loch Lomond. About 4 we arrived at Arona, and there got into the train for Milan. We got soon started and passed through a beautifully rich – and very level country. We stopped by the way at the village of Magenta where the battle was fought, here we saw numbers of tombstones for those who had fallen. There is a large stone obelisk in memory of the French and Italians who fell. About half past seven we arrived at Milan and drove to the Hotel de la Ville where having secured rooms and had dinner we sallied out to see Milan by gaslight. It is rather poorly lighted. The cathedral is the lion of the place and is very beautiful and imposing. We walked round it, intending in the morning to inspect it, along with the remarkable parts of the town, more at leisure. We are having the most beautiful weather and the heat here is very great.

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Tuesday, 15 Sept. Rose a little after 4 and having breakfasted we set out through the town with our mule carrying the luggage. We met great numbers of country people bringing produce of all sorts into the market, every one here being astir at a very early hour. Many of the people, chiefly women were very heavily laden, many of them carrying not less than two hundredweight of hay in long baskets on their backs.

The morning was clear and fresh very pleasant for walking, and giving promise of a fine day, about a mile from the town we struck off the high road to the left and began the ascent to the Col de Colina, which is not very steep and very pleasantly shaded by the beautiful wood that grows all the way up the hill side. Not much of a view is obtained until the col is reached, when a magnificent panorama is suddenly opened up.  Away in the distance and stretching far down we see the Val Sesia rich with beautiful wood and studded with many pretty little villages, while in the background appears Monte Rosa and the chain of the Alps: on the southern side the view is enchanting. The Lago d’Orta, a beautiful little sheet of water about 8 miles long and one broad lies below beautifully blue and sleeping among thickly wooded hills while in the dim distance we see the Lago Maggiore and the plains of Lombardy. After admiring this for some time we began the descent which is by a steep path leading through vineyards and orchards. At one of the former we bought some most beautiful clusters of grapes from a girl who was gathering them. After a short descent we then reached the side of the lake where numerous and very picturesque boats, covered with awnings lay in waiting. A woman had joined herself to our party some way up the hill, why, we did not know but on arriving at Pella – the lake side we found her and another woman ready with their boat with our baggage on board. After paying our muleteer we pushed out into the lake, and, rounding a point we all got on shore and had the most refreshing and delightful bath in the lake, after which, re embarking and passing, the Isola de San Giulio lying between Pella d’Orta containing a village and a church said to contain the ashes of St. Giulio, - some paintings etc. On reaching orta we drew up our barge at the side of the Albergo St. Guilio, from the balcony of this hotel we had a most beautiful view of the lake. The maître speaks English well and is very obliging. We dined here between 12 and one, having made up our minds that in place of staying all night here we should get on to Baveno, on Lago Maggiore and having arranged to send our baggage there by a return carriage on the high road, at the same time writing for rooms; we got two donkeys to help to take us over the Col de Monte Mottarone, 4800ft high. The heat on leaving Orta was very intense but decreased as we ascended. We rode and walked by turns, the donkeys were very slow, but served to rest us often the mornings tramp. The ascent was not very steep. We got some very nice milk at a small farm house on the way side. On reaching the top of the pass about 4 o’clock we had a most magnificent view though a little hazy. On the one side lay the Lago D’orta we had just left and on the other, the Lago Maggiore and then small ones round it, and stretching away in the background the plains of Italy beautifully dotted with white sunny villages and threaded by silver streams. In a short time sunset came on and the whole scene was most beautifully lit up and tinged with pink. It very soon became dark and that before we were half down this descent is the worse we have yet had and was like the bed of a mountain stream in some places, dry, -in many wet. It was very fatiguing and we were all thankful to escape without having our ankles twisted. The seeing of this place which seems of a considerable size we reserved till Wednesday and our baggage having safely arrived at la Poste Hotel we changed our dresses and had tea and went to bed.

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Monday Sep. 14

           At 4 o’clock by English time but 4.30 here we were wakened and having dressed, packed up and breakfasted we set off much pleased with the hotel and had a good part our journey – (a walk of 25 miles in all to Varallo) over before the sun was up. On reaching the small village of Riva a short distance down the Val Sesia we had a sublime view of Monte Rosa, springing from a mass of snow. The River Sesia is a very beautiful one – now it is of a bright emerald green and now in a lather of foam and spray rushing among granite rocks. As we went down the sun began to rise on the lofty summit of Monte Rosa, and the pink and purple tinting of the snowy peaks and of the bare rocks was most beautiful. Gradually the sun crept down the valley until the whole was in a flood of light. As far as Mollia the road is only a mule path but here it becomes a fair and well engineered carriage road. We hen pass through Campertogno where there is a rather fine church in proportion to the size of the place. The people all through this valley are quite of a different class from those on the other side of Monte Rosa. They are much more cleanly, have more comfortable houses, and seem to enjoy themselves which the others do not, as far as an onlooker can judge. As we go down the valley the scenery gradually softens until from cold, rugged and snowy we have finely wooded hills clothed to the very top with the beautifully varied foliage of the ash, walnut, chestnut, and birch. Many of the ashes are all stripped of their leaves and present rather a wintry appearance. The people seem to take them all off and dry them for winter fodder. We pass the village of Piode and Scopello, at the latter of these copper ore is obtained and reduced. The day was very hot and the road very dusty so we were not sorry when Varallo hove in sight. We sat about half an hour by the road side waiting for the mule that had stopped for some short time to feed and reached Varallo about one. After bathing our feet and getting rid of dust we had some lunch in the hotel to which we went “La Poste” and then went up to the Monte Sacro – an eminence above the town commanding a most beautiful view of mountains wooded to the top, watered by streams in the foreground and the alps as a gorgeous background. This Monte is famous for a series of 50 chapels or oratories containing groups of figures modelled in terracotta, painted and clothed, representing chiefly events in the life of Christ. These are seen from peep holes in front, and most, in fact all are merely disgusting, some are surrounded with paintings and frescoes some of which are tolerable. The figures within are life size, and the buildings containing them are rich in ornament, many with fine granites pillars and porticos.

           There is also here a flight of steps – “Santa Escala” built in imitation of those at St John Lateran in Rome. There are 28 steps and indulgence is promised to all who creep up saying an Ave, a Pater and a Gloria on each step and kiss each devoutly. We saw four very well dressed persons engage in this piece of mummery. A convent is close by where the priests reside commanding an excellent view.

           On descending we walked through the town. It was a market day and every one was very bust. This is rather a curious old place. After dinner we had another stroll. Paid off our baggage mule – engaged another to take our baggage over the Col de Solina to Pella on our way to Orta and Milan. Intending to make an early start.

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Sunday 13 Sep.

           We all slept very soundly after our fatigues and after breakfast – there being no English church we sauntered out and started about 12 to the “Pice Alp” an eminence about 1 ½ hours walk from the hotel at the top of the Val Sesia in which Alagna stands. We passed on the way up the abandoned gold mine of Rues, the minerals here being apparently rich in pyrites, copper ore. After a steep ascent up a sort of stair cut out of the rock on a small shoulder of the Staffelberg the top is reached commanding a magnificent view of the S.E. side of Monte Rosa with 3 very fine glaciers – and of many other grand peaks, some of them nearly 15000 feet in height. We see the source of the Sesia, which just here has a very fine fall with a deep and rugged gorge. Here we all sat and read until the sun left the platform on which we were, when after taking a parting look we descended, and had time to see the R. Cath. Church which is ornamented outside with some pretty fair frescoes by a native artist, we then had dinner along with the other two parties who were Irish and whom we had met at Gressonay. Having given directions to our muleteer to be ready at five next morning and arranged to have an early breakfast we went to rest for the night.

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Saturday Sep. 12

           Got up a little after 4 o’clock and having breakfasted we started across the Col D’Ollen. The ascent begins about an hour after leaving Gressonary and at starting we had to walk sharply as it had been hard frost during the night and as the sun was not yet up it was very cold. In about half an hour we reached La [Isuila?] where we found the houses superior to anything we have seen for some days, the people seem to be better off as regards means and much happier. After this is passed we had a very sharp ascent on very rough ground and close by the edge of some small snow glaciers until we reached the summit about half past twelve. From this point the view is most beautiful, the exquisite combination of bold and rugged rocks, of glaciers and snow clad peaks and of rich forests and grassy banks, with a silvery stream threading its way through them, is very striking and lovely. Having brought some provisions with us we rested a short time to take lunch, but we found that our wine had been left and we had nothing to drink but brandy, which requires some dilution and so no water was near we packed up again intending to descend until we should come to some stream – before we had well begun the descent, our mule who had hitherto been very active and lively suddenly became unwell and lay down, nearly rolling our baggage down the hill. Our muleteer, whose whole fortune I suppose lay in his mule (each one costing about £20) wrung his hand and began to weep, lamenting the misfortune that had befallen him, and telling us that it had never been unwell before. We revived it somewhat by pouring some brandy down its throat, and it went on again but soon lay down 4 or 5 times and we had to unstrap the baggage and lay it on the bank, leaving all till his mule should recover should recover or some who were behind us came to his assistance. We then after stopping at some water and lunching began a very steep and tiresome descent which made our knees very shaky for some hours after, on the way down we found some very beautiful blackberries which we enjoyed much. This steep descent occupied between four and five hours, on reaching the Monte Rosa Hotel we found that an English party whom we met on the top and who passed us when poor mule was in distress had kindly as we had requested them secured rooms for us in the Hotel Monte Rosa. After washing our hands we had a very comfortable dinner, in the middle of which our mule arrived with our baggage all safe and sound and quite recovered. We were all rather tired and went early to bed.

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Friday Sep. 11

           Rose at 8 having slept very soundly, and having breakfasted and written home we engaged three mules two of them for riding and one to take our baggage to Gressonay, fully 8 hours walk. The hotel at Chatillon “The Palais Royal” we were not pleased with. There is hardly any attempt at management or method and the rooms are very dirty. Chatillon has nothing remarkable about it but the bridges one of which is a fine span across a very deep gully close to the hotel.

           We left about eleven, and proceeded along the high road till after passing St Vincent we turned up a steep mule path to the left, where after climbing for more than 2 hours we reach the Col de Jon which is covered with beautiful pastures and the sides finely wooded with larches. From this a most beautiful view of the valley of Aosta and of Mont Blanc in the distance. Descending by a steep but very beautiful path through pine woods we reached Brussone where we had a very good lunch having found from the visitors book that the hostess could make very good omelettes we proved her skill and found that she did not belie her character, having started we immediately commenced another ascent, riding on the mules as before by turns. The road is very rough and steep but we reached the Col de Ranzola in 2 hours and ascending a little piece had a grand view of Monte Rosa with a beautiful valley – that of Lys – lying far below, lined on both sides with fine forests. We walked all the way down taking at the end a short cut and sending the mules by a longer way. The descent is very steep and the darkness having now come on we did not find the stony and rough road either very safe or agreeable. We reached Gressonay which lies in a beautiful valley about 9 and having had tea and arranged to be called early next morning so as to proceed to Alagna – with one baggage mule across the Col D’Ollen which is 9553 feet high – we went off to bed.

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Thursday Sep. 10

Between 3 and 4 in the morning our chief guide called us on my getting up, he said that the weather looked bad, that the Matterhorn, Mt. Rosa and the Col St Theodule were covered with clouds and that we must wait till a little later. We got up before 5 and having got breakfast and an additional guide to carry our plaids we started, the guides being furnished with hatchets for cutting steps in the ice and ropes in case of mishap. We descended for about half an hour till we reached the Gorner Glacier and then we walked up its side on the moraine for an hour or so as at the point of our descent it is impassable. This is tremendously rough walking among loose stones where one time you slide and go to up to the ankles, in heaps like a cottage, and tremendous boulders where you have to leap like a goat. At last we got on to the glacier and after some difficult and slippery ice walking for ½ an hour or more crossing small crevasses as we reached the other side where we rested for 5 minutes, we then began to ascend another glacier that runs up towards Monte Rosa, pretty steep but much smoother than the last. After ascending for some time we left it and struck up the face on our right, very steep, more so in some places that the side of a house, one place we caught each other’s hands and got pulled up over a ledge of rock. The rain had been falling and now that we were high above the glacier it became snow, we saw 3 ptarmigan among the rocks here. After a very steep ascent we entered upon snow most beautifully pure and like the top of a globe seemingly endless. The snow drift was now pretty heavy and a strong wind blowing so that we could see very few yards before us. The guides put on their snow gaiters and we put down our veils and tied our handkerchiefs over our hats and ears. Most of the time we were walking in snow above our ankles and it was very cold. All this time we were walking by the foot of the Matterhorn and among the grandest scenery but might as well as far as we were concerned been facing a stone wall. We gradually neared the summit of the pass and were in Italy (in Piedmont.) Here there is on the highest point of the Col a little Chalet inhabited for 3 months in the year July, August and September. It is a very little place with a very low roof but on entering the warm stone that was burning inside was very grateful. We had brought provisions and wine and brandy with us but having seen mulled wine recommended as made by the landlord here we told him to prepare some for our party, guides and all, he did so, the wine being Chauilave Rouge, an Italian wine and it was most acceptable, banishing at once all cold that we had got outside. This is the highest inhabited house in Europe, being on the summit of the Col St Theodule, the highest pass in the Alps, 11,185 feet. From this we all wrote letters knowing that the good folks at home little fancied we were such a tremendous height above them. After resting here about ¾ of an hour we again faced the drift, for more than half an hour we tramped in the now which was here much softer than previously . After finally leaving the snow we proceeded for 45 minutes among rocks and loose rubbish and then entered upon sloping and pretty steep pastures. We at length reached the Hotel at Breuil which is a very nice clean house – the landlord is very attentive. Here we paid off our 3 guides one having left us at the Col. We were amazed at the strength and endurance of these men we had 2 portmanteaus one of them at least 40lbs and these they carried among them with several plaids and wrappers all the way without a slip or false step. We found them very pleasant and polite men. Two of them were chamois hunters and they enlivened us with descriptions of their expeditions in hunting.

By the time we arrived at Breuil it was between 12 and one o’clock, once having lunched we procured two me to carry our baggage to Chatillon – a distance down the valley occupying 6 hours. The view is very beautiful as you descend the scenery of wood and mountain is so grand and varied, the river running down the rocks from the glacier above runs through so many deep and rugged gorges, and foams among huge rocks, then several fine falls are reached from which point a very fine view of Mt Cervin is obtained in fine weather. There is then a short but very steep descent and the village of Tournanche is reached commanding a magnificent view down the valley terminating with the snowy peaks of Le Grand Paradis. Here we had a short rest and tried some of the vin au pays as we were rather thirsty after our walk; the weather down here being very different from that which we left a few hours ago. We then started again for Chatillon. The valley is beautifully green and finely wooded with large walnut and chestnut trees, willows also abound and the beautiful red berries of the barberry cluster thickly all along the road. The torrent roars and foams below with tremendous rocks and precipices on either side, about 2 hours from Chatillon darkness came on us. We had a very rough and steep descent to Chatillon, which we reached a little after nine having had a fifteen hours walk. We were all pretty fresh, and having bathed our feet which were a little beaten, and having had tea we went off to bed.

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Wednesday Sep. 9th

After breakfasting we left at _ for the Riffelberg which we reached after a pleasant though often a tough climb of hours. The view as we ascend is very grand and gradually increases till on reaching the summit you have a splendid view of all we had seen the previous day and in addition the Gorner Glacier, a very long and beautiful one of the Spechhorn and the several peaks of Monte Rosa. After engaging rooms and having lunch and a rest we started for the Gornergrat a still higher peak and from which you have the finest view in Switzerland. We reached the summit after rather a hard pull in an hour and certainly the view did not disappoint us. The grandeur and sublimity of what we saw it is impossible to describe, you are in the centre of a vast amphitheatre of many many miles across – Monte Rosa 15,217 feet high crowns all and the sweep on both side of everlastingly snow clad mountains without a speck, save where a bold and black rugged point rises up to the sky is unspeakably grand, and one that will ever remain in my memory.

           After going on a small glacier close to the top we descended, and after admiring the gorgeous effect of the setting sun on the magnificent panorama around us we went into the Hotel and had dinner. During this our baggage arrived with 3 guides – two having been found hardly equal to the weight.

           We went to bed having arranged to be wakened at 4, breakfast at 4 ½ and start over the Col St Theodule at 5.

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Tuesday Sep. 8th

During the night Uncle Walter was taken unwell, we consequently could not leave at the hour we had intended – by 7 o’clock however he was much better and having breakfasted we left for Zermatt at 8. Proceeding for about 2 hours up the Visp river the valley branches into two one leading to Saas, the other on the right to Zermatt. The view is very grand as you proceed on both side high peaks rise some bare and rugged some with glaciers, lying on the shady slope and many richly wooded to the summit. The constantly changing appearance of the valley is very striking at one time it contracts and the stream – of a milk white colour roars and rushes among huge boulders and through deep and precipitous gorges, then it opens out and runs smoothly among green fields and wooded banks. All along it leaves marks of recent inundation and in several places the whole of the valley is covered with white mud, and small gravel. This valley bears very few signs of life. Many of the villages seem more like churchyards closely huddled together while up to the tops of the wooded hills small chalets are planted, seemingly inaccessible and almost always overhanging a precipice. We were all amazed at the number of churches and chapels, every village has several, and you can see them perched away far up on a hill side, while as you go along the road you come every few minutes to little huts with one side open to the road having a cross and pictures of the Virgin and Saviour and often several others many richly gilded. The whole country is ruled by the priests whom you see going about like spectres dipped in ink, very forbidding looking characters. Goitre and Cretinism prevail here to a painful extent, consequent it is believed on the constant drinking of snow water.

The road the whole way is very good, though only for mules or horses, at 12.30 we reached St Nicholas, a small village though the largest in the valley except Visp and Zermatt. Here we had lunch and rested an hour – and as Uncle Walter felt still weak we obtained a pony, which he rode the rest of the way.

The road continued to rise, following the course of the stream: the scenery gradually becoming more and more wild, until, just after passing the base of the Weisshorn, a magnificent peak of ___ feet, and rounding a turn of the river a magnificent scene burst on our view of the Matterhorn (Mt. Cervin) 14,836 feet high, its form being that of a church spire it seems a tremendous height, the sides of it are too steep to allow snow to lie, they have the appearance of being covered with drift, its base is all covered with [……] snows and glaciers, its summit has never been attained, through from the Italian side which is less steep an ascent has been made to within a few hundred feet of the top. This lofty summit, so clearly defined against a perfectly clear sky is a very fine sight. It is the most wonderful mountain any of our party ever saw.

We reached Zermatt a little after 5 the walk having occupied 9 hours. We had just time to make ourselves comfortable after our travels when the bell rang for table d’hote. Here (Hotel Mt. Cerin) we met a great many English, and hardly any foreigners, as is almost always the case on this part of the continent. We arranged with the Maitre d’Hotel to send up next afternoon two porters with our baggage to the Riffelberg Hotel, a height of 7000 feet, and to proceed the day following over to Italy across the Col St. Theodule.

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Monday Sep. 7th

Got up at 5 a.m. and having breakfasted we got the train leaving Lausanne for the head of the Loch and Sion at 6. The view as we go up is very grand and imposing. The old castle of Chillon we pass close by so beautifully sung of by Byron, laved by the blue waters of the placid lake which no less beautifully he has celebrated. At Villeneuve we left the lake and continue our route up the valley of the Rhone amid most magnificent scenery until we arrived at Martigny. Thence the line runs eastward disclosing to view the line of the Bernese Alps ending with the Oberland covered with snow.

           Both sides of the valley are dotted over with Chalets as high as vegetation reaches and the Rhone between runs like a milky torrent form the glaciers far up in the mountains.

           We reached Sion at 9.30 and went in an omnibus to the Hotel du Lion d’Or where we got a comfortable breakfast and a carriage and pair which took us to Visp (or Vieche) a distance of 25 miles along the valley of the Rhone. Many parts of this are flooded by water and must be very unhealthy from malaria arising from the marshes.  The view of the hills behind – on both sides and that round which the Simplon passes in front are very fine – the contrast between bare and jagged peaks and the grassy and fir clad slopes dotted here and there with Swiss chalets – is very fine. After a very pleasant and delightful drive we reached Visp about 5 and had dinner. I went to bed having arranged that we should be called at 5 the next morning and after breakfasting leave at 6 for Zermatt – a nine hour walk – a horse carrying our two portmanteaus and a man along with it.

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Sunday Sept. 6th

Got up about 8 and after breakfast went down to the English church which we found very full and heard a very good discourse from Luke VI. In the afternoon we went and heard a very earnest discourse in French in the fine old cathedral from the words “Follow peace with all men and holiness without wh. no man shall see the Lord.” Hebrews.

           This cathedral has a very fine deep toned bell and has many curiosities and beauties in architecture about it. We came down from it by the old wooden staircase which has stood for very many years. In the evening we sauntered down to Ouchy and saw the lake in twilight.

           Our baggage encumbering 4 portmanteaus we all began to think was too much so we made a selection and sent two of them back to Lucerne to await our arrival there – taking only two with us.