We travelled to Dominican Republic, the larger of the two countries sharing the Hispaniola Island, last year, during the winter holidays. We visited the Puerto Plata province, which is on the northern side of the country, popular for it’s beaches, surf, and mountain views. We spent there about a week. It was a family reunion type trip. First attempt to get two brothers and their families in the same house for a couple of days. It was great fun combined with surf, sightseeing, swimming in the pool overlooking the ocean, delicious food and even sea urchin stings for most of us.
Here are a few takeaways from our vacation:
Arrival & Departure: The airport serving the Puerto Plata province (the 4th busiest in the country) is fairly small and easy to navigate. When we were getting ready to land (afternoon) we were able to see this beautiful hilly and lash green part of the island. Once landed, we went to pick up our luggage in the cargo area, paid an entrance fee at the border patrol window, as we were getting our passports stamped and were let in with not much delay. The departure was also fairly painless. We filled up the gas tank of our rental car at a gas station right outside the airport and dropped it off right where we picked it up. Someone from the rental agency inspected it visually and off we went to the ticket counter (3min walk). After a short wait in line, we were all hooked up with seats on the planes all the way back to California. The security screening went quick and easy for all of us. Once on the other side of the security lines, there are a few small restaurants where we all had lunch and a last (or a few) cold one in the Caribbean’s.
Car Rentals: The car rental companies are just outside the border patrol area, which is very convenient if you are carrying a lot of stuff, like we always do. The car rental process can be very slow though. It was actually a bit horrendous for us. We were getting a large SUV for the entire crew arriving on the island (seven adults and one child). Or, so we thought. However, because we arrived a little later than the online car reservation for pick-up stated (maybe one hour later), the lady from the car rental place was scrambling for ideas on how to get us the car we wanted. They gave ‘our’ car away before we got there. The cars are limited there apparently, the, the traveller must make sure the car pick-up time matches the arrival time in order to avoid this type of debacle. She finally hooked us up with a car that was a super small sedan with a busted radio that was playing loud Spanish music and had a non-working air conditioner (in 85F hot and humid weather). It smelled like cigarette smoke inside and it barely had any space for our luggage. This was their temporary solution for us until the next morning, when we could return for an exchange. The rental price for the car by the way was just as much as the cost of the housing for the entire stay (ouch).
Spanish Command Desirable: Before you go to Dominican Republic, please brush off on your Spanish a little bit if you are willing to communicate with the locals (whether voluntarily or not). Barely anyone speaks any English outside the airport (or maybe not willing to); thus, it can get challenging trying to find your way around or being able to order food at the local tacos shack. We experienced the language barrier as soon as we arrived, while trying to find our way to the hotel. It took us a good couple of hours driving around in our rental car (what normally would take 15 minutes direct route) with a local driver in his car driving ahead of us, trying to help us out. We couldn’t explain him what were the directions given to us by the property manager, nor could he find the address we gave him on a piece of paper. It was getting dark and almost dangerous to keep driving around. At one point we even started to question the driver’s honest desire to help out, I remember. Eventually, we managed to call the property landlord and had him speak with the driver directly, which helped getting us to the right place after all.
Safety and Security: This is something to have in mind at ALL times while visiting the country. It is considered a high-crime area, particularly popular for tourists’ pick-pocketing, violent crimes and gun robberies. Vigilance is required, especially if you are venturing out during night hours. Almost every hotel or vacation rental community has guards (carrying real guns) at the gate. Most of the compounds designated for tourists are fenced. If it is not fenced and guarded 24/7, perhaps it’s best not to stay there. The place we stayed at had a gate that was locked during the evening and night hours, with a guard on duty at all times. It gave us a little piece of mind. They were patrolling the property-enclosed area multiple times per day and night ensuring that everyone is behaving. If you are leaving your hotel, bring someone with you, just in case. It’s highly recommended not to wonder around alone. Don’t bring expensive things with you and don’t wear flashy jewelry to avoid unnecessary attention. It does feel like you are constantly watched, no matter where you go. Despite a high drop in the poverty rate and “strong economic growth” in the last couple of years, according to worldbank.org, poverty is visibly high in the rural areas. Thus, you can easily encounter some desperate locals hoping to get some “easy” cash.
Wine & Dine: We had the chance to taste some great local food from our hotel’s surrounding area. One night we went to search for tacos but ended up dining at a sushi place, which to our surprise, was really good (and much cheaper than the sushi in California). Some other time, we had dinner at a hotel restaurant nearby, which had delicious seafood dishes we all enjoyed. ‘Presidente’ is Dominican’s best pilsner in my opinion (ranked 16th highest rated beer brewed in DR by the ratebeer.com), which I highly recommend if you ever visit the area. Rum drinks (made with rum from the Dominican Republic) are their signature beverages though. Plantains are one of the main ingredients on pretty much every menu and it is served in a variety of ways, baked, fried, coated or roasted. Seafood, white rice and refried beans are also amongst the most popular dishes everywhere you go. There are a lot of meat options available as well like chicken, beef or pork. Overall, the local cuisine is well diversified to satisfy every tourist’s taste buds. I would suggest being careful with the food picked up on the streets or even in restaurants due to low sanitation and poor hygiene concerns.
Surf: One of the primary goals of our trip was to find good surf in the middle of the winter for the young and old surfers of our group. We spent most of our beach time on Playa Encuentro located between Sosua city and Cabarete and 15 minutes from our hotel. The water was really warm and pleasant to swim in (despite this area being bathed in the Atlantic Ocean waters). It was a small and isolated beach that wasn’t too crowded (maybe due to this being the low season time of the year). That beach had a small shack right on the beach (pictured above) selling cervezas and some food, some lounge chairs that were for rent and a number of cabins that were looking vacant at the time. The beach had nice soft sands and a bed of rocks as you go into the water (also pictures above). The rocks that were separating the deep waters from the beach were a nice playground for children and great for collecting shells and colorful small rocks. These rocks were also an attractive environment for sea urchins of all colors and shapes. We learned about their existence the hard way. As soon as one would try to cross the bed of rocks to get into the ocean to go catch some waves (or on the way out) it was almost inevitable stepping on one of those spiky, small, constantly moving creature. That’s why you will see most people on the beach wearing water shoes almost at all times. It is really painful and hard to get those sharp and long urchin spikes out of your feet, by the way. I hope this post will help someone be more prepared than we were at the time. There were some fun waves for our surfers to play in every day during early mornings or late afternoons. On the same beach there were people doing kite surfing, taking surf lessons or stand up paddle boarding.
Lesson learned during this trip for us was to always try and stay at a hotel/rental property on or walking distance to the beach (if beach is your preferred place) to avoid driving at all costs. Driving around the area was not very easy, nor very safe. If I will ever go back to Dominican Republic (and surf wouldn’t be the main trip aspiration), I would choose the other side of the island, Punta Cana area. From the pictures/stories I see/hear, it has clearer waters, more resorts with easy beach access and pink flamingos running around. I guess I will have to go see it for myself to validate these rumors.
https://www.ratebeer.com/beer/country/dominican-republic/62/
http://www.worldbank.org/en/country/dominicanrepublic/overview
A Family Trip to Dominican Republic We travelled to Dominican Republic, the larger of the two countries sharing the Hispaniola Island, last year, during the winter holidays.