"Stained glass" faille jacket by Freda Blackwood, 1970's or early 80's, via Kerry Taylor Auctions.
There's more of them!!

Discoholic 🪩

⁂
wallacepolsom
$LAYYYTER
i don't do bad sauce passes

祝日 / Permanent Vacation
Aqua Utopia|海の底で記憶を紡ぐ
we're not kids anymore.
Sade Olutola
Show & Tell

tannertan36
KIROKAZE

PR's Tumblrdome
h
Cosmic Funnies
No title available
Three Goblin Art
Alisa U Zemlji Chuda

izzy's playlists!
YOU ARE THE REASON

seen from El Salvador
seen from Spain
seen from Lithuania
seen from Italy

seen from Germany

seen from Malaysia
seen from Italy
seen from United States
seen from Italy

seen from United States
seen from United States

seen from Malaysia

seen from United Kingdom

seen from United States

seen from Malaysia

seen from Japan
seen from Greece

seen from United States
seen from United States

seen from Germany
@yarnnerd
"Stained glass" faille jacket by Freda Blackwood, 1970's or early 80's, via Kerry Taylor Auctions.
There's more of them!!
Since this very very much in progress fish plate has gotten some surprising fame, I would like to ask you a small favor:
How should I finish this? Which fish is obviously missing? Help me fishblr!
Dear comrades, I would like to inform you:
THE FISH PLATE IS READY!
New gender dropped: yarn
Translation: Women / Men / Yarn
please read the instructions on the rit dyemore bottle before you start your project
Okay, as we have just hit 100 notes on this, let's talk.
Rit DyeMore dye for synthetic fabrics does not work like regular Rit dye. Standard Rit may not give us the brightest or longest-lasting colors, but it is popular because it's relatively easy to use in a variety of different applications. You can dye on a stove, or in a bucket or a sink. You can tie dye it and process that by leaving it in a trash bag in the sun. If you hate your roommates, you can even dye fabric in your washing machine. You will generally get a decent result with any of these, because natural fibers are able to hold onto pigments.
Rit DyeMore is popular because it's literally the only easily-available product that can even remotely attempt to perform the near-impossibly task of dyeing polyester fabric. It's popular because basically nothing else will do what it does. It's also popular because people are familiar with how easy Rit classic dye is and they think that using DyeMore will be the exact same process.
This is not true. This is not true because honestly we shouldn't be able to dye polyester at all anyway. You may say but hey, Dollar-chan, I see brightly colored polyester fabrics all the time! They're bright and cheerful and they don't fade when you wash them. And that's because a lot of polyester fabric isn't dyed. This comes down to the fact that polyester is plastic. It's great plastic, but it's plastic. It's plastic the same way this thing is plastic:
[image description: yellow and red Little Tykes Cozy Coupe children's foot-propelled car]
This thing is not dyed. They start out with red and yellow plastic pellets, and then melt and form those plastic pellets into the shape that they want. Polyester fabric is the same thing, except that the shape that we want is for it to be thin hair-like strings that can be turned into cloth. The easiest way to get red or yellow polyester fabric is going to be to start with red or yellow polyester plastic pellets, and then turn them into polyester fibers for polyester cloth.
If I wanted to make an orange Cozy Coupe, I could mix the yellow and the red pellets together, and then when they're melted, the colors would mix and I'd get orange. If I want to make orange polyester fabric, I can mix yellow and red pellets together and get orange polyester fibers. The important thing about this process is that the pigment isn't transferring on its own. We're not moving a pigment onto the fibers. We're mixing plastics and then reforming them. If you want to keep your plastic in the state it's currently in (coupe or fabric, your choice) and just change the color without changing what it is, you have a different situation.
It is extremely difficult to change the color of polyester plastic once it's made. That's actually one of its big advantages. The color's in the plastic, so it won't fade when it's washed or exposed to the sun. It just won't come off. That's very cool. When humanity is long gone, your XL Twin bedsheets you got conned into buying in 2009 will still be bright green and purple in the landfill.
But it comes with some limitations. One of those is that, if you want to change the color of polyester plastic, you're going to have to play by its own rules. There isn't really very much wiggle room out there for how the procedure should work. Actually, it's kind of amazing that there is a possible stovetop dye procedure for polyester dye. As anyone who does sublimation on polyester knows, which is a thing that I'm sure everyone has done, you set the heat press for 350-400F for sublimation. We can't set our stove to 350F because water boils at roughly 200F. Once the water is boiling, it stops getting hotter, so if your water is boiling at 212f then you're never going to have a dye bath at 350F, so you'll never be able to dye the fabric at the same temp that you sublimate it.
Rit DyeMore allows us to do the impossible. To get polyester dye to accept a pigment at a temperature under the boiling point of water, a lot of what we'll call Spooky Yucky Chemicals have to be used. One of the reasons why its so important to read the DyeMore instructions is that you really do not want to accidentally ingest this product. You don't want to get it on places that you don't want to get it. I don't know what's in it but I've never eaten any of it and I'm not dead, so that all sounds solid to me.
You're violating the very laws of nature by attempting to dye polyester at all. This process does not want to work. Back as recently as 2010, home dye of polyester fabrics was not actually considered possible. This means that, if you want this to work and have any kind of long lasting results, you better read the instructions, do what they say, use your "please" and "thank you"s. Tell the dye you appreciate it. Give it everything it asks for and maybe it'll actually do what it told you it would do, because it's looking for any reason at all to make the process fail.
So no, unfortunately, you can't tie dye with Dyemore. You can't sponge dye, ombre dye might look very weird. You're already right on the edge of breaking the laws of physics. Just be grateful that it works at all.
[text on image: Nobody claim rit dyemore as "your dye". We're all going to walkin real slow. Be good. Be quiet. Be cautious and respectful. Don't touch anything.]
Dino how FUCKING DARE YOU leave this gem in the replies.
dino-in-a-dress: According to all known laws of chemistry, there is no way a rit dyemore should be able to dye. Its temperature are too small to get its fat little chemicals off the ground. The dyemore, of course, dyes anyway because dyes don't care what humans think is impossible.
why are so many canners so determined to get botulism 😭
"our great grandmas fed their entire families with their knowledge. they didn't need the government telling them how to do it."
great grandma also lost babies for want of vitamin k shots and antibiotics and would have had fewer babies to start with if she'd had the option to access birth control.
great grandma did the best with what she had and knew.
why can't we do the same 😭😭
edit after
@princessxombie an excellent point!
the reason for a preference of bottled lemon juice over fresh squeezed for canning (as reported through the Iowa State University Extension and Outreach): "It is a USDA recommendation that bottled lemon juice be used. And consistent with the recommendation, reputable canning sources will agree that the best source of lemon juice for canning is commercially bottled lemon juice, as opposed to the juice of a fresh lemon. The reason for the recommendation is that bottled lemon juice has been uniformly acidified or standardized per FDA regulations: “lemon juice prepared from concentrate must have a titratable acidity content of not less than 4.5 percent, by weight, calculated as anhydrous citrus acid.” With a guaranteed pH...there is a consistent and known acid level which is essential for the critical safety margin in canning low-acid foods and for making jams gel properly. "
as for resources:
the usda guide to canning (revised in 2015). you used to be able to find it on the usda website but for SOME reason (two guesses as to why 🙄) that website is now routing to a broken error 404 page not found. fortunately, it's available other places! here it is hosted on the internet archive! if you want it printed in color and spiral-bound, you can also purchase it for $25 from perdue university.
if you want more resources, the university of utah has a whole section of their preserve the harvest extension website dedicated to safe food storage practices including freeze drying, fermenting, drying, etc.
ball (the mason jar company) also has a section of their website dedicated to canning 101, including the basic process, recipes, a glossary of terms, and videos for their tutorials if you're a visual learner. they also offer free online recipes broken down in a way that's meant to be easy even for new canners.
go forth and enjoy canning without giving yourself and others botulism, friends.
yes! an excellent thing to point out!
as reported through michigan state university: "The acidity of a tomato is considered borderline between a high- and low-acid food. Tomato varieties have been changed through the years and as a result, many now have milder flavor and lower acidity than in the past. Testing has shown that some current tomato varieties have pH values at or above pH 4.6; a few have values of pH 5 or even higher."
for reference (thank you, university of georgia): "The bacteria that cause botulism poisoning can grow and produce toxin in sealed jars of moist food at room temperature if the pH (measure of acidity) is above 4.6."
so great grandma's recipe might have been perfectly safe with the ingredients she had access to! but you may or may not still have those same ingredients.
It's also important to note that if your recipe relies on vinegar for acidification (some recipes do), you need to need to need to check that your vinegar is 4% or greater vinegar. Many vinegars now are 3% or lower and they WILL NOT get you to the necessary ph. Companies have lowered the percentage slightly, and for someone who's, like, making salad dressing, it doesn't really matter, but for canning? It really really matters.
ⓘ Tip: while sewing, you can unlock scary sewing by losing your needle somewhere on your bed.
The Very Hungry Cardigan!!!!
This is a test knit! I’m not sure when the pattern will be released yet, but I am so obsessed with it!
Edit: this pattern is now available on Ravelry!!
Pattern by KatieAliceMakes on Instagram
@official-library-posts ?
They should invent a way to sit hunched over doing crafts that is Good for your body
I'm sorry, is this... Is this implying there's no DYE in that rug? All raw wool in its natural colours? She fucking bred the sheep to get the colours she wanted over the course of ten years!? Holy shit.
Edit: this has gotten a huge amount of traction (fibrearts tumblr is a, uh, tight-knit community it seems!) so I am adding this note to state that I checked Lola Cody's website and can confirm: There is no dye in her work. She uses exclusively hand-spun Churro wool sheared from her home-raised sheep flock. It's all natural colours!
A large part of my dislike of modern plastic sewing machines comes from the fact that, in my limited experience at least, they just don't feel as nice to use. The vibrations are yucky.
That's it! That's the problem! I could never really figure out why I don't like them. I grew up using an old Singer and when I was forced to use a newer one I jsut dind't lke it. Diagnosed: yucky vibes.
Yeah! Yucky vibes and unhappy sounds! No nice happy metal thunks and clunks and good weighty vroooms.
OH ALSO the hand wheels! Absolutely fucking awful!! On the old cast iron ones it's a real proper wheel with rounded edges that glides around oh so nicely. As long as everything's well oiled you can move it with one finger, but modern hand wheels are a horrid puck that hates you. They made it so so much less ergonomic and I can't understand why.
My serger is the only plastic machine I have and I'm currently serging some fabric for washing and it's like. am I hurting you? Are you ok? Is there supposed to be this much resistance when I move the wheel??
To be far it might be a bit worse than intended, since it was a somewhat messed up machine that I repaired myself, but I've gotten the same kind of awful resistance from other people's sewing machines. Aesthetic complaints aside, the hand wheel is one of the very few things I don't like about the industrial I use at work.
My medieval hood, with liripipe! I’m tentatively planning on sticking with machine sewn seams and hand sewn finishing for the rest of the outfit as well
On the theme of dyeing… I’m planning to make a bunch of the hats from Knitting the National Parks as well, and I am NOT buying twenty different colors of expensive yarn
i am a experiencing the temptation to Learn A Completely New Type Of Sewing again
not until the projects I have materials for already are done, brain!
A bunch of dyeing for my medieval outfit project
My medieval coif- it’s the same fabric as the shirt, but here I did the hems and felling by hand
Medieval shirt! This is a cotton/linen blend, and I machine-sewed all of it except the binding on the neck and cuffs