On the Early Days as a Young Photographer:
“We were taught that the most important thing a young photographer can do is learn how to see. It wasn’t about the equipment we were using. I don’t remember being taught any technique. A camera was only a box that recorded an image. We learned to compose, to frame, to fill the negative, to fit everything we saw into the camera’s rectangle. We were never to crop our pictures. We went out every morning and took pictures and developed them in the darkroom the same day. Since the prints were washed in communal trays and everybody’s pictures were lying there with everybody else’s, you tried hard to come back with something good. In the evening we would sit around and discuss our work. We were a community of artists.”
“...I had traded my Minolta in for a Nikon, the camera of choice for professional photographers in the late sixties and early seventies. The Nikon had a really sharp 35mm lens. A free-flowing, beautiful lens. During the early years at the (Rolling Stones) magazine, when I thought of myself more as a photojournalist than a protraitist, I usually carried three cameras on assignments. I didn’t want to lose time changing lenses. I would take a 35mm lens, a 55, and a 105. A 35mm lens provides a perspective close to what the human eye sees, and it was my lens of choice. The 55 was considered a “normal” lens, very classic, simple and noninterfering. The 105 was on a body with a meter and I could use it for light readings. Zoom lenses were not really an option then. They weren’t made very well. When you saw a photographer with a zoom lens on his camera you didn’t take him seriously.”
“...The best thing a young photographer can do is to stay close to home. Start with your friends and family, the people who will put up with you. Discover what it means to be close to your work, to be intimate with a subject. Measure the difference between that and working with someone you don’t know as much about...Take pictures of something that has meaning for you.”
On Getting Enough Pictures:
“When I was young, I never knew when to stop. I could never tell what I had. I was afraid I was going to miss something if I left... As I became more experienced, I began to understand that someone who is being photographed can work for only so long and that you shouldn’t belabor the situation. Something is either going to happen or it’s not going to happen. It’s not going to suddenly turn into something else... What does happen a lot is that as soon as you say it’s over, the subject will feel relieved and suddenly look great. And then you keep shooting.”
“(Robert Frank) picked up my camera once... He said to me, “You can’t get every picture.” That was comforting advice. You do miss things. You’re attached to this machine. To its timing. Things are moving in front of you and you’re supposed to capture them, but it’s not always possible.”
On Learning about the Subject:
“I do my homework. When I was preparing to photograph Carla Bruni, the new wife of Nicolas Sarkozy, the president of France, in the Elysee Palace, I looked at pictures of the palace. I looked at pictures of other people who had lived in the palace. Pictures of couples in love. Pictures that other photographers had taken of Bruni, She had been photographed many times before. I thought Helmus Newton had seen something in her that other photographers hadn’t. I knew she was a popular musician, and I listened to her music.”
“I came up with the formula of at least two days to work with a subject... A day for meeting them and a second day for shooting or finishing any shooting that had started the day before. When you first meet someone you’re just trying to be nice and picking up clues for a picture. You get ideas when you’re with them that you wouldn’t get simply by reading about them or studying their work... The first day gave me room to observe and talk. Then I could go away and think about what I’d learned.”
On Lighting:
“Natural Light is the greatest teacher. You place the strobe so that it follows the direction of the natural light. You try never to fight the natural light by coming from another direction. Adding strobe to the natural light outside makes a daylight studio. When you’re working inside, you try to remember what natural light looks like and see if you can re-create it. I’ve never been able to make strobe light look as beautiful as natural light.”
“The best time to do the kind of work I do is on an overcast day, or at the beginning or the end of the day. When the light levels are low. That’s the time most photographers like to take pictures. The tones are most even then. Although I finally decided that shooting at sunset was too stressful... It’s better to shoot at sunrise. After the sun comes over the hill you still have time to work.”
On Tripods:
“The original tripod is my two legs. Being able to move, to go up and down, is an important part of my work. When the camera is put on a tripod, the picture looks different than when the camera is held in your hand. The photograph will never feel the same. My assistants will set up a tripod next to me, and I won’t use it. By the time you’ve renegotiated the tripod, you’ve lost the moment. Everything’s changed. I shoot a lot of pictures standing up. With a tripod, you have a tendency to straighten everything out. With your body, you unconsciously tilt yourself. You’re not coming straight on. You’re fine tuning by pulling yourself in a little bit and then out a little bit.”
On Digital and the Choice of Cameras:
“I believe that you are better able to capture what you really see in color with digital. There’s a distinctive intensity in a digital file. Digital gives a more honest view of how things actually look, and with the advent of all these possibilities, I still want the pictures to look like they’re real.Whatever camera helps me do that is the camera I’m going to use. I’m not nostalgic about cameras. When I talk about how important the camera is to me, I mean the idea of the camera. What photography does. I’m not into it because of the equipment, and I’m not concerned with the things that concern more technically acute people. I want to use whatever helps me take a picture in all kinds of light with faster speed and fewer problems. I changed my 35mm digital camera four times in one year. As soon as I hear there’s a better one out, I try it.”
On Music:
“I use music when I shoot. In the beginning it camouflaged my inability to talk to people. But the music on a shoot isn’t just background. It raises the mood, sets a tone. The right music at the right time elevates the situation. Music can make or break a shoot.”