Slippers. 1790â1805.
Credit line: Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Herman Delman, 1954
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/156203
Chapeau capote assorti Ă la toilette, garni dâun oiseau de paradis.
A. â Visiting Ensemble. â Costume in plum-colored faille and damask fabric of the same shade, set against a light gray background.
A princess-style gown featuring a train 1.05 meters in length; the hem is trimmed with two pleated flounces, each cut to a width of 12 centimeters, and surmounted by a 3-centimeter heading in the matching faille fabric. A panel of damask fabric adorns the back of the skirt and the back of the bodice. The sides are embellished with a wide lapel, also in damask; this fabric is arranged across the front of the skirt in a chevron pattern, with the chevrons tiered and tapering gradually in width up to the neckline.
A matching paletot (short coat), designed with a vest-like front, features a single fitted seam at the back and is cinched at the waist with a belt. It is trimmed in the same style as the gown and features a large, fold-over damask collarâsquare at the back and split over the shoulders.
A bonnet matching the ensemble, trimmed with a bird of paradise plume.
B. â Promenade Ensemble. â A costume in Indian cashmereâdyed a tawny brown hueâand silk damask; the damask features a background tone matching the cashmere, with a darker pattern. The trim consists of a woven silk braid in fire-red and brown, accented along its edges with a dotted pattern in two shades of yellow.
The dress features a Princess-line silhouette in the front and a cuirass-style back. The skirt fits snugly against the body in the front; in the back, it is gathered beneath the cuirass bodice into three deep box pleats. It falls in undulating folds, forming a train 90 centimeters in length; this train is cinched in the center by a bow of matching faille silk and is finished at the hem with a cashmere pleating topped by a band of braid. A similar pleated trimâcut on the bias to create a distinct headingâadorns the sides and front of the skirt. The damask fabric used to trim the sides of this model also forms the cuirass back of the bodice and the side panels of the front. A matching paletot (short coat) accompanies the dress, featuring a cashmere vest front and cashmere sleeves; it is edged with braid that ascends the front on either side of the vest before curving around the neck. A Marie Stuart-style bonnet, crafted from matching faille silk, is trimmed with marigolds and foliage.
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