La Mode nationale, no. 8, 19 juin 1886, Paris. No. 5. — 1. Costume de ville. 2. Costume de courses. 3. Costume de visite. Bibliothèque nationale de France
(1) City suit. Surah skirt lined with heavy muslin, with trimmings above the hem, black cashmere mantle, trimmed with two rows of guipure lace. Shell on the front. Brown hood in black lace, trimmed with flowers.
(3) Visiting suit. Black, pleated paneled fault skirt. Mantle of beaded fabric lined with black silk, trimmed with a single row of Chantilly lace, topped with a row of pearls. Shelled in front. Round black straw hat with egret feather.
Plain flat skirt in heliotrope surah, entirely covered with a skirt in English embroidery, executed on ecru lawn. Blouse in heliotrope surah with yoke and cuffs in English embroidery, similar to the skirt.
No. 1. Walking ensemble. Bodice-blouse in supple beige and blue striped wool, opening on the side by an embroidered band in appliques, from which escape buttoned tabs with olives on the bodice; a gathered ruffle closes the side opening. Stand-up collar folded over a sapphire blue satin tie; Empire facing sleeves; coated white leather belt; beige woolen skirt, flat on the hips. Round hat, adorned above with a large bow of blue silk muslin, having in front of a reclining bird with wings and tail spread in a crest. White veil.
La Mode nationale, no. 24, 19 juin 1897, Paris. No. 23. — Toilette de jeune femme. No. 24. — Chapeau de jeune fille. No. 25. — Toilette de bain. No. 26. — Grand manteau de voyage ou de campagne. No. 27. — Toilette fantaisie. No. 28. — Chapeau de jeune femme. No. 29. — Toilette de courses ou de voyage. Bibliothèque nationale de France
No. 23. — Young woman's ensemble in silver-grey silk skin. Bodice-bolero, embroidered in leather, open on a lace tie, cascading down from the neckline under a ruby velvet collar; similar corselet belt rising above small black embroidered basques; flat sleeves, bulging from the top with embroidered facings; tight skirt, trimmed at the bottom with four small embroidered ruffles placed in scallops. Round silver-grey horsehair hat adorned on the side by a black silk muslin feather lying down, and on the other by ruby ribbon shells behind which rises a black aigrette feather.
No. 24. — Young girl's hat in white horsehair, turned up on one side with ruffling of muslin underneath, and on the other side a group of multicolored roses hiding the foot of three large black ostrich feathers posed in egret.
No. 25. — Dark blue serge swimming ensemble. Square neckline bodice-blouse with trim of white braid posed as a bolero; jockeys trimmed with white braid on the shoulders; short skirt, trimmed with braid, over baggy trousers; canvas shoes tied with braid around the leg. White paillasson hat, adorned with two large cabbage on the side.
No. 26. — Grand traveling or country coat in gray wool. The bottom of the coat, gathered at the neckline, falls to the bottom of the skirt; it is covered at the top by two pelerines, trimmed with white wool braid, one of which is completely round, and the other forms a point in front. Hood on the shoulders. Gray paillasson hat, decorated below with shells of poppy ribbon, white veil above.
No. 27. — Fancy ensemble with small gray and blue checks. Flat bodice adorned with little blue velvet, on which is placed a similar plastron, buttoned on one side and forming a bolero behind; puffy sleeves at the top adorned with small blue velvet. Plain and tight skirt fitted at the top by small velvets. Blue straw hat adorned on the side by a large picket of multicolored flowers.
No. 28. — Young woman's hat in yellow paillasson, surrounded at the top by a high velvet nasturtium with similar shells widening on the sides. Above, small wreath of roses, hiding the foot of four black ostrich feathers placed behind in aigrette.
No. 29. — Shopping or travelling dress, tailored style in nickel gray wool. Flat bodice, closed at the side by a green wool braid; small checkered nickel gray and green bib with stand-up collar surmounted by a ruche; flat sleeves covered from the top by high jockeys; gray leather belt; clingy skirt, pleated at the back with tab down from the seam on one side.
Round nickel-grey straw hat, with small ribbon puffs under the side ruffling, and large shells of green ribbon rising above it like an aigrette.
The bodice is mounted onto a yoke of gathered silk chiffon that extends down the front as a plastron framed by the puffed bands; the trim is completed by a gathered ruffle that drapes low over the sleeves. The upright guipure lace collar is framed by two pink velvet ribbons tied in a cravat style at the front. A pink ribbon tie connects the edges of the ruffle. The sleeves are puffed and finished with a pleated ruffle.
La Mode nationale, no. 25, 19 juin 1909, Paris. Fig. 1. — Princesse de drap. Fig. 2. — Robe de foulard. Fig. 3. — Princesse simple en grosse serge. Fig 4. — Robe de serge. Fig 5. — Longue veste de schantung. Bibliothèque nationale de France
Fig. 1. — Cloth princess dress. Boot seam in the center of the front. Trimming patterns and buttons on the sides. A shaped satin part highlights the embroidered lawn wimple.
Fig. 3. — Simple princess dress in heavy serge. The front forms a large apron decorated with trimmings patterns up to the waist. At knee height, the apron forms a wide box pleat. On the hips, trimmings patterns.
Small lace collar. The sleeve is cropped on a lace cuff.
Hat draped in muslin, pink on the side; velvet ribbon.
Fig 4. — Serge dress; the tunic is decorated at the bottom with a wide band of satin. On the sides fine pleats stopping at the hips. Satin belt veiled with lace.
Fig 5. — Long schantung jacket closed on the side draped under a large old-style cabochon. From the closure, the jacket's edge is adorned with buttons and trimmings; same trim on the sleeve.
