Advanced Esthetics

Hi! I’m a licensed advanced “master” esthetician. 20 | Skincare enthusiast | 2.5 yrs experience

[alizeesthetics]

Final Blog Post

I just want to say how much I have enjoyed making and creating this blog. Testing out my knowledge each week on skincare. This blog has made me realize just how much I enjoy the field I’m in and how much this industry has grown! I encourage and hope that I’ve reached my readers and have made them re-think their skincare routine. Or at least made the readers consider taking the time to realize what they’re applying to their face. I do realize that my recommendations are all on the pricier side but I garuntee that it’ll be all worth it for the health and protection for your skin. Again, we only have one skin and the more we love and take care of ourselves and our skin, the more graceful we will age in the future. I understand that beauty standards and makeup trends may come and go, but you always need a good base for the application of these products. I hope you have all enjoyed this blog and can reference these posts anytime you’d like! I know there’s SOOO much more that goes into skincare and I may have only touched the basics, but I’m always here if you have any general questions regarding your skin concerns, or product recommendations. It is a bit harder to recommend something without physically being able to evaluate someone’s skin but I’ll try my best. Going into this industry I always want to encourage people to love their skin no matter the condition that it’s in and to be more confident with their bare faces. I never put down anyone for wearing makeup, but personally I’d use makeup as a mask everyday because I wasn’t confident with my natural face, and I never want anyone to feel like that. So yes, skincare is important for everyone. Also if you didn’t take anything from this blog as helpful that’s fine, I just hope you at least wear an SPF EVERYDAY! It’s been fun making these weekly blogs and maybe one day I will return with more new and awesome product recommendations as well as more advanced skin revitalizing treatments that esthetician/dermatologists can offer for you. Thank you again for everyone who has followed/liked my blogs thus far. I didn’t expect as much traffic of people to come around, but it is very much appreciated and thank you to my teacher who made this as an assignment. I enjoyed taking the time and sharing my love for skincare. I may also during my research have spent some coin in investing into some products that i’ve recommended to others. Happy holidays!

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All about pores & how to minimize their appearance

We all have pores, and sometimes these pores can get clogged with oil & debris. No matter how hard you “scrub” or how clean your face is, pores are stubborn when it comes to how to extract out that build up. I’ve talked about the wonders of chemical exfoliants, these can help unclog your pores. I’d stay FAR AWAY for a pore/nose strip, as these can cause more damage to your hair follicles than they do any good. The way pores appear are solely based on genetics. Unlike the myth of pores being able to shrink in size, avoid any product that garuntees reducing the size of your pores. What products can do for your pores is instead minimize their appearance by getting rid of the dirt, oil and debris built up.

Important facts to know about pores:

Pores are indeed the opening to your hair follicles.

Excessive cleaning can actually cause your pores to produce more oil & buildup.

Regular cleansing can minimize their appearance, but without products with chemical exfoliants in them added to your routine, cleansing can only do the minimum.

Your pore appearance is based off of your genetics. Their size can never increase or decrease.

Environmental factors, dry skin, aging, acne and oil can make your pores APPEAR bigger.

Important tips to minimize pore appearance:

Cleanse your skin 1-2x daily in order to remove any makeup oil or dirt that has built up on your skin through the day.

Choose the right products for your skin type such as non-comedogenic skincare & makeup (won’t clog pores).

Exfoliate 1-3x a week to remove dead skin cells & help unclog pores. Don’t overexfoliate your skin! stay away from face scrubs!

Make sure you’re applying your SPF everyday, UVA damage not only ages your skin quicker but it ages your skin by breaking down your collagen & can cause your pores to appear saggy.

Always be mindful of what products you’re using on your skin. Always read directions and ingredients to make sure you’re using something that your skin will react good with. Also be mindful of what products are safe to use in the day vs. the night, since some products can cause irritation when exposed to sunlight.

My Recommendations for products that will minimize the appearance of your pores;

Obagi Pore Therapy Toner : contains 2% salicylic acid

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha-Beta Pore Cleansing Gel : A non-stripping cleanser that gently tones & exfoliates the skin.

PCA Skin Pore Refining Treatment: Contains natural enzymes to break down oil and debris from the skin. Can be used 1-2 times weekly.

SkinCeuticals Micro-Exfoliating Scrub: DISCLAIMER- DO NOT USE OVER ANY ACTIVE ACNE!! Perfect for people who like the feel of a scrub but don’t want to damage their skin. I’d use this 1-2 times every other week. Perfect for normal-dry-oily

Invest in your skincare 1 product at a time. I promise you your at home care will visibly do wonders for your skin just give it time. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask! I love talking skin 😇 happy holidays to all!

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What is retinol?

Retinol is derived from vitamin-A. It increases the cell turnover rate, renews the skin and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and pigment spots. Retinol is a highly active molecule and can be broken down very easily through sunlight exposure. Most retinols should ONLY be applied at night because when it’s exposed to sunlight, it can cause the skin to get irritated. Most people don’t use retinol correctly or don’t know that there are different types of retinol. With all retinol products you should introduce them into your routine slowly, start 1-3 times a week. Your skin will slowly develop the proteins it needs in order to carry out and absorb the vitamin-A. A common side effect when first starting retinol is redness, stinging/spicy feeling, flakiness, peeling or any other sensitivities. This is why you have to introduce them slowly. After continuous use, your skin will build up enough retinoid receptors that it’ll stop being so sensitive towards retinol.

Types of Retinoid:

Retinyl Esters (Retinyl Palmitate)- This can be sold over the counter and is the weakest formulation of retinol.

Retinol- Can also be sold over the counter, and is a stronger formulation than retinyl esters. These can be found in different strengths and the higher the strength the more effective. Just remember he higher the strength the more irritant it can be.

Retinaldehyde- The MOST effective over the counter form of retinol. Will be more irritating than retinyl esters & retinol. The strongest formulation you will find over the counter.

Retinoic Acid- Usually prescription only. This is the most studied and active form of retinol. A common example of this is tretinoin/Retin-A.

Some good brands of over the counter retinol:

Obagi Retinol 1.0

PCA Skin: Intensive Age Refining Treatment 0.5%

PCA Skin: Intensive Brightening Treatment 0.5%

SkinMedica: Age Defense Retinol Complex 0.5

Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare: Ferulic+Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum

Remember sensitivities are common when using retinoids but if any are causing severe side effects. Please dismiss the use of any and all products you’ve been using and consult with your dermatologist or esthetician. Have a wonderful day/night! If you have any questions please don’t hesitate to ask 😌

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Credit: @ScienceBecomesHer on IG

This is a perfect visual of how pimples begin to form. Whenever something causes a hormone imbalance, this will cause the sebaceous glands to overproduce oil, when this oil gets built up under dead skin cells it can cause inflammation in the pore. Therefore causing pustules. Once the oil is back to normal production, there may be a scar or post inflammatory hyperpigmentation left over the spot where you had the pimple. This is why chemical exfoliation and manual exfoliation is key in a weekly/monthly routine. It can shed off the dead skin that keeps the oil trapped in your pores. This is why it’s also important to not touch your face with unclean and/or unsantized hands, brushes, wash cloths, sponges, face wash brushes ect. As the p.acnes bacteria that causes acne can be spread all over the skin with anything that you use all over the face. It’s very hard to get rid of pimples but if you can do things to keep breakouts at bay, then you should absolutely be taking these necessary steps to help aid your skin, such as cleaning makeup brushes, changing out your makeup sponges monthly, washing and sanitizing your face wash brushes weekly, and any other tools you may use on your face. I hope this helps!

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Cold Weather Treatments

Chemical Peels: Since there’s less exposure to sun during the colder months chemical peels are awesome to try out. You should still always wear your SPF regardless.

Microneedling: Any form of collagen infusion therapy is good to get during this time. Tackle your hyperpigmentation needs!

Oil Infusion: Oil mixed with steam will keep your skin glowing. If you’re acne prone/grade 2 & 3, avoid using oil over active pustules. Since acne is bacteria built up in the skin, you don’t want to be rubbing that bacteria over any open pores. It will only worsen the condition.

Monthly facials from your local esthetician’s: Results will NEVER occur overnight. Be sure you’re consulting with your esthetician and asking their recommendations on what your skincare routine should be looking like at home. Constant individually catered facials & persistent at home care is KEY!

Microdermabrasion: Exfoliating your skin will help keep your skin glowing and radiant. Be sure not to overexfoliate! As over-exfoliation can lead your skin to be more dry and can cause dry patches. Microdermabrasion can help suck out all the dirt, debris and dead skin out.

Another tip is your hand hygiene. Make sure you’re not touching or picking at your skin throughout the day. Make sure your hands are thoroughly washed and sanitized when touching your skin. You can do a paraffin dip or hydrating mask on your hands to keep them moisturized and prevent them from cracking.

Last tip that I’ve mentioned before is to get a humidifier. If you stay in front of the heater or keep it on blast, this can dry out your skin. The humidifier will help bring hydration back into the air.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS & KEEP GOOD CARE OF YOUR SKIN! (remember you only have one skin so take the best care of it & age gracefully.)

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SkinWave Facial:

The skinwave facial is a machine that uses an aqua-delivery system to cleanse, exfoliate, extract, and hydrate the skin all in one simultaneously. The skinWave device also has a unique feature called hydrogen therapy. Hydrogen therapy helps diminish cellular damage. The SkinWave device can be used by esthetician’s and can be customizable for each person, no matter what your skin concerns are. The Skinwave machine holds 3 different solutions that can be infused into the skin. It holds alphahydroxy acid (AHA), betahydroxy acid (BHA), and hylaronic acid. Which we know now are 3 key ingredients to have in your skincare routine.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid: AHA’s are primarily used to exfoliate, while promoting collagen and blood flow. AHA’s improve the appearance of surface lines and wrinkles, while also preventing acne breakouts. They brighten the complexion, and increase product absorption.

Beta Hydroxy Acid: BHA’s are primarily used to reduce the signs of aging in the skin, while also provides exfoliation and improves the overall skin texture.

Hyaluronic Acid: Well known for it’s hydration properties and ability to retain moisture. The results are healthier, plumper, and more radiant looking skin.

The SkinWave is an all in one device and has AMAZING results.

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3 Medical Treatments to Help Your Skin; Beyond At-Home Skin Care

PicoSure Laser

PicoSure is a non-invasive, non-surgical laser procedure that is attracted to pigment in the skin. It’s a great way to get rid of stubborn sun damage, melasma, hyperpigmentation, acne scars, pigmented lesions and freckles. This procedure may take 2-3 sessions but it definitely works quickly and is painless. There’s no down time for this treatment & is semi-permanent. As long as you’re doing your at home care this procedure is perfect for achieving beautiful healthy looking skin.

IPL Photofacial

IPL (IntensePulsedLight) is similar to the PicoSure. but is only used for fitzpatrick skin types (I-III), essentially lighter skin tones. Due to the intensity of the light it could cause hypo-pigmentation, (complete removal of melanocytes, which causes permanent white spots) for darker skin types. Now this doesn’t mean this procedure is more “powerful” than the PicoSure Laser. It’s just less inclusive for all skin types. The after affects of this procedure is your pigment spots will become darker in color and appear like a coffee ground, then eventually after a week will fall off on its own. If you’re the right fitz type this treatment is fantastic in getting rid of broken capillaries on the face. Broken capillaries appear like little teeny red veins and are typically seen around the nose.

Collagen Induction Therapy

Microneedling is a procedure that uses little needles to prick the skin. This is to cause micro-injuries to the face so the skin can repair & heal itself quickly. It also causes more collagen production. Some mirconeedling uses PRP (platelete-rich plasma) infusion. So they do the microneedling and cause the micro-injuries in the skin, then infuse the micro tears with your own white blood cells to speed up the process of healing & collagen. This version of microneedling is often referred to as “vampire facial”. There’s also RFMN (Radio-Frequency Microneedling) which is great for scars and stretch marks. It uses radio frequency to heat up the fibroblasts in the skin and gives them a nice “warm bubble bath” so they can then speed up collagen production further that just microneedling. All of these forms are great for unproblematic skin. Meaning you shouldn’t have these treatments done if you have multiple active pustules, cystic acne or inflammation.

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Cold Weather Skincare Tips ;🥶❄️☃️

Add a facial oil to your routine that’s hydrating- hylaronic acid never fails to make your skin feel 10x better

Pick up a hydrating or gentle cleanser

Grab a thicker moisturizer so if you layer any serums underneath they can absorb better

Avoid HOT showers, I know it’s hard during cold mornings or to even relax at night. But your skin will likely look and feel more dehydrated with the use of hot water

Apply & RE-APPLY your SPF even when it’s cloudy, rainy or snowy!

Personally I dial back on using serums with actives when I notice my skin starting to feel more dry. I absolutely love the PCA Hylaronic Acid Serum for hydration. Hope you’re all having a wonderful week!

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My current skincare routine

Step 1: Double cleanse

I usually get makeup wipes from TJ Maxx these are the current ones I’m using. They work decently for wiping away face makeup. They also don’t burn or irritate my eyes and face which I enjoy.

I then go in with this cleansing balm and apply it all over my face to get off the excess makeup & mascara off of my face. This stuff literally MELTS away makeup. The cherry scent I don’t mind but for those who don’t like that, farmacy carries another scent that’s green tea.

Step 2: Cleanser

Since my skin has been breaking out occasionally, I am using a face wash with some actives such as salyiclic acid, tea tree and willow bark. This is a gel based cleanser so it doesn’t foam up much but it lathers in the face quite nicely.

Step 3: Serums (PM)

These serums I use during my PM routine. I’ll either use these all or only 1 depending on how my skin is feeling.

Serums (AM)

I use both of these serums every day for moisture. My skin has been a little more on the dry side recently.

Step 4: Moisturize

This is the current moisturizer I’m using and I love it. The consistency of it is light and it has a botanical scent due to the ingredients. I use this both in the AM and PM.

Step 5 (AM): Sunscreen

This is my daily facial sunscreen. It is pretty thick but blends in and soaks up into the skin quickly.

I try and accommodate my products to the way my skin is feeling. Currently this has been working for me but I’m sure it’ll change once winter comes and the weather starts getting colder.

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My personal skincare journey

The above photos were taken December 10th, 2019. During this time of my life I was completely STRESSED OUT. I had a lot going on in my life and my skin showed this. I was using a face wash with salyicylic which helped but I had not been using serums daily/nightly and was overall inconsistent with my skincare routine.

These photos were taken March 6th, 2020. I had moved out of WA, was a lot less stressed than I was previously. I started slowly introducing retinol as well as AHA’s into my skin routine. I started being more consistent and taking better care of my skin. My acne was still inflamed but stopped being as cystic as before. I also made sure to throw out my beauty blenders monthly as these sponges tend to harbor bacteria. I still to this day replace them monthly! As well as weekly cleaning of any face brushes that I use daily.

Now this is my skin as of October 25th, 2020. I do still have occasional breakouts but nowhere near as severe as before. My skin is smooth to the touch but Ima still working on my post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. I do a PCA chemical peel every month to help chemically exfoliate my skin. I use my daily and nightly serums religiously. I pay attention to how my skin feels. It’s usually normal/dry I tend to only get oily in my t-zone when I wear makeup. Other than that my skin journey has taken almost a year to clear up what I had. As long as you’re consistent with your skincare routine and doing your research on what products can benefit your skin care needs, your skin will take time to see significant changes. I recommend you taking photos as I’ve done and see the comparisons for yourself. I hope this gives hope to those who are afraid of spending money and scared that they won’t see results. Happy Sunday everyone! ✨

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Exfoliating

Exfoliating is meant to help shed dead skin cells that sit on top of your skin. If your skin feels dull, dry or flakey then these are signs that your skin may need additional help such as a form of manual or chemical exfoliation to help increase your cell turnover. Typically every month your skin cells shed automatically and produces new skin cells. As we age the process of cellular renewal decreases which can cause a more dull look to your skin.

Chemical exfoliation:

Chemical exfoliation is using AHA/BHA’s which helps get deep into the epidermis and significantanly help speed up the process of shedding dead skin. The results from chemically exfoliating your skin leaves a dewy and glowy look. Chemical exfoliating is a much healthier alternative to microscubs as it doesn’t cause any micro-tears in the skin. Therefore if you have acneic skin the best solution would be to use a chemical exfoliant. It may cause purging but with continuous use bi-weekly as well as using other acne catered products such as salicylic acid in your routine, the purging will be kept at bay.

Manual Exfolation:

I personally do not recommend any scrub/micro-bead products to clients for their exfoliation. As these beads and scrubs can cause damage to your skin such as causing microscopic tears in the skin. This leaves your skin and pores open to getting bacteria inside and can even cause damage to your pores leaving them clogged and blocked for long periods of time. There are however modalities that esthetician’s can offer for your skin to manually get rid of debris and dead skin. One of them is microdermabrasion which is a machine that has a crystal tip that almost feels like a cats tounge. It can be used with serums and is non-invasive to your skin. It’s perfect for clients with minimal breakouts or no acne at all. Another modality is the HydroFacial, which cleanses, hydrates and extracts debris from the skin. It’s almost like a vacuum for your skin but a lighter tug that is non-damaging. It does wonders for removing blackheads especially around the nose.

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Credits to: @ ScienceBecomesHer on IG

I love this visual for how long it takes for active ingredients to start working and see visible results on your skin. It always takes time and patience. No one ingredient is going to magically work overnight and no one ingredient will treat all your skin problems. This is also a generalization chart as every skin is different and results may vary. Notice how hylaronic acid can visibly plump your skin up in about 15 minutes? I LOVE TO SEE IT!

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Skincare Reminder!

Remember that no matter where you start in your journey into skincare nothing is ever going to work overnight. Don’t get discouraged if you’re not seeing dramatic results right away. From personal experience with my own skin I had a severe acne breakout last year. It was almost cystic very inflamed and it was sooo uncomfortable for me. I had to introduce more products with salicylic acid and use a higher retinol. Chemical peels would always make my acne purge out so I had to refrain from getting any. It definitely messed with my confidence and took about 8 months to deal with it and get the inflammation at bay. I still have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from it which looks like little red spots on my skin but are not acne and are flat to the touch. No matter what your skin type is or what you may be dealing with just know it will take time and patience. Starting somewhere and trying to improve your skin is always a good sign. Just know there’s always dermatologists and esthetician’s who are trained to accommodate all of your skin care concerns. I hope you all had a great weekend/week. If there’s anything specific anyone wants to know skincare related or about any skincare products please let me know and I’ll cover it within the next week! 😇

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How Free Radicals Can Damage Your Skin

Free radicals can come from certain foods you may consume, air pollution, smoking, drinking alcohol, and pesticides. Free radicals can cause damage to your skin cells by damaging the protein and DNA in your cells. This can lead to loss of elasticity in the skin, uneven skin texture as well as hyperpigmentation (sun spots). It’s important to prevent this kind damage as well as treating damage that has already occurred. You can introduce antioxidants into your skin care regimen to support your skin from free radical damage. This youtube video will give you a visual of how this damage occurs as well as how antioxidants work with your skin to prevent and protect your skin.

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Hello! When I read the word acid, it scares me because I think it is a bad thing or may sting my face. Could you please explain to me the role of acid in cosmetics and that it's safe. I appreciate any help you can provide.

Hi! Thank you so much for asking, this is a good question!

Acids in skincare are used to dissolve dead skin cells. They’re nothing to be scared of! Treatments done by esthetician’s such as chemical peels, use Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA) that can be formulated at a higher percentage than your average at home treatments. Yet nothing sold over the counter can damage your skin unless the manufacturer directions are not followed. Overuse of certain acids can thin your skin out, which is why most of them are said to be used 1-2 times weekly, or to be used at night with no direct sunlight due to slight irritation of the skin when exposed to the sun especially without SPF protection. The role of acid is to promote healthy skin cell turnover, provide hydration, and/or lighten any hyperpigmentation (sunspots) on the skin. Most acids are also derived from nature such as fruits, mushrooms, sugar cain ect. It’s always best to do your research when choosing a product for your skin and checking the ingredients to see which acids and active ingredients are being used. Also from my personal experience when having a chemical peel done some stinging/spicy feeling is normal. If it’s too much for your skin to handle make sure to rinse off the product immediately. When dealing with acids in skincare it’s best to introduce them to your skin gradually. I hope this helped! If you have any more questions feel free to let me know! ✨

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Which serums are right for my skin type?

Steps for your skincare routine:

Cleanse 🧼

Tone 🧽

Retinols/Serums ✨

Moisturizer 🧴

(Daytime) SPF Broadspectrum Sunscreen 🌤

Dry Skin:

C-Quench Antioxidant Serum - PCA Skin

Skin Hydrating Booster - Dermalogica

Daily Hydrodrops - Obagi

C.P.R Skin Recovery Serum - CosMedix

Triple Hylaronic Antioxidant Hydration Serum - Allies Of Skin

Hylaronic Acid Intensifier - SkinCeuticals

Aging Skin:

Anti-Aging System - SkinCeuticals

ExLinea Peptide Smoothing Serum - PCA Skin

Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum - IMAGE Skincare

Intense Defence Anti-Aging and Repair System - Epionce

Blemish + Age Defense - SkinCeuticals

Sensitive Skin:

Serum 10 AOX+ - SkinCeuticals

Calm Gentle Retinal Serum - Osmosis Beauty

Calm Skin Arnica Booster Serum - Eminence Organic Skincare

AntiRedness Calmin Serum - Exuviance

EverCalm Anti-Redness Serum - REN Clean Skin Care

Acnaic/Blemished Skin:

15% Mandelic Acid 3-In-1 Serum - Vivant Skin Care

Blemish + Age Defense - SkinCeuticals

Obagi360 Retinol - Obagi

Acne Gel Spot Treatment - PCA Skin Care

Rescue Purifying Acne Serum - Suki

Hyperpigmentation:

Lytera 2.0 Pigment Correcting Serum - SkinMedica

Retinol Renewal - PCA Skin Care

Professional C-Serum 10% - Obagi

Glycolic 10 Renew Overnight - SkinCeuticals

Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster - Eminence Organic Skin Care

Brightening Regimen Kit - Best Products of Dermstore

Most skin is not all one texture. So maybe you have dry and sensitive skin, try using a serum targeted for dry skin then apply another for your sensitive skin. Mixing serums are safe, just make sure you give some time to let those serums seep into your skin. I’d say wait 2-5 min. before applying your next serum. Always start with lightest to thickest consistency, and if you’re using a retinol I’d recommend applying that first then your serums. Take some pictures of your skin before introducing serums then wait a month or so and take another picture for comparison. Serums are my favorite thing to apply to my face because I know that they work and will do wonders for yours too no matter what kind of skin problems you’re having, serums have your back!

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What are serums & why are they important?

Serums are key to treating any problems you may encounter with your skin. Most serums are formulated with active ingredients to target your skin conditions. When choosing a serum it’s important that you choose one specified for what you’re trying to target whether that’s dryness, redness, acne, texture ect. Make sure you’re using your serums appropriately as well. Some serums are only to be used daily or nightly due to ingredients that may be photosensitive. Meaning they may attract more sun to your skin causing irritation or damage. Some serums are safe for daily use and others such as retinols may be 2-3 times weekly. Some of the professional brands of serums may cost more but with serums you do get what you pay for. Some brands such as PCA Skincare use a technology so the molecules of their serums are small enough to surpass the epidermis and seep into the underlying layers of the skin where most damage is done. Therefore with technology such as this the price point for serums will be higher but you are garunteed results. In my next post I will list some serums that I’d recommend designated for each general skin type. Serums are critical for your skincare routine and will help alleviate your skin problems no matter the season.