all dog owners should know...

things all dog owners should know to keep their dogs healthy, happy, and well-behaved. disclaimer//all tips//admin's blog questions? suggestions? all urgent health questions should be directed to your veterinarian. if you'd like a private response, you can put a "P" at the beginning of your ask and I will be sure not to publish it!

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Sorry to disappear on you all like that. My life’s been a bit of a whirlwind - dealing with abusive family members, working on my dog’s training and health, and starting to apprentice under a few fantastic dog trainers. Things are becoming predictable, if not less time intensive, but I feel the urge to start up on these again. Keep an eye out; I’ll announce any changes.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Flexi-leads can be helpful, but they can also be very dangerous. Knowing when to use and when not to use a flexi-lead is vital.

Flexi-leads should not be used in crowded places. The thin cord or tape is difficult to see and can easily trip a person or dog. If the tape gets wrapped around someone’s limbs it can severely injure them or even amputate fingers. Letting your dog get too far away can mean you’re not close enough to help if they get in trouble.

Using flexi-leads near roads is also a bad plan. Even if your dog “always stays on the sidewalk,” they might get distracted by a squirrel or panic because of sudden loud noises. A dog who is ten feet in front of you can be suddenly ten feet to the side and in the path of a car, and there’s not much you can do in a short period of time.

Do not use more than one flexi-lead at a time. Unless you have a third functioning hand, you won’t be able to safely hold two or more when you need to pick up after your dog. Flexi-leads are bulky and difficult to hold onto at the best of times; trying to fit more than one in your hand is a recipe for disaster. You won’t be able to lock them quickly, or they may be pulled from your hands.

Do not use a flexi-lead with a new rescue or a sound-sensitive dog. Many dogs get scared when their walker drops the flexi-lead and it “chases” them, clattering loudly. 

Another thing to be aware of is the failure rate of flexi-leads. Many people have experienced their flexi-lead’s lock mechanism breaking. Make sure the leash you’re using is rated for your dog’s weight and that the brand is well-rated. Always be prepared for your equipment to fail.

Do not use a flexi-lead with any kind of anti-pull device. Prong collars, choke collars, head halters, front-clip harnesses, or the pulls-on-thin-cords-in-the-dog’s-armpits anti-pull harnesses are not meant to be used with a flexi-lead, which encourages the dog to pull by rewarding them with more freedom of movement when they do. Ideally, a back-clipping harness should be used to protect the dog’s neck from any kind of sudden pressure when you lock the leash.

Now that you know when not to use a flexi-leash, here are some reasons you may want to.

Some dogs want privacy when pottying. A flexi-lead allows you to keep them on a leash while still giving them the space they need to be comfortable. For dogs used to pottying in a fenced yard, this can be invaluable when traveling.

For deaf dogs, being off-leash may not be an option. Some find the constant feedback of the flexi-lead’s pressure to be reassuring since they can’t hear your footsteps like other dogs can.

When exploring an unpopulated trail, a flexi-lead will allow your dog to explore and sniff to their heart’s content while keeping them from running away. 

Long lines are an alternative to flexi-leads, but carry some of the same caveats. Do not use either in crowded places, and be aware that the drag of the line over skin can cause serious friction burns quickly. Wrapping any kind of leash around your hand can cause injury, but the longer the leash the more likely this is.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Flexi-leads can be helpful, but they can also be very dangerous. Knowing when to use and when not to use a flexi-lead is vital.

Flexi-leads should not be used in crowded places. The thin cord or tape is difficult to see and can easily trip a person or dog. If the tape gets wrapped around someone’s limbs it can severely injure them or even amputate fingers. Letting your dog get too far away can mean you’re not close enough to help if they get in trouble.

Using flexi-leads near roads is also a bad plan. Even if your dog “always stays on the sidewalk,” they might get distracted by a squirrel or panic because of sudden loud noises. A dog who is ten feet in front of you can be suddenly ten feet to the side and in the path of a car, and there’s not much you can do in a short period of time.

Do not use more than one flexi-lead at a time. Unless you have a third functioning hand, you won’t be able to safely hold two or more when you need to pick up after your dog. Flexi-leads are bulky and difficult to hold onto at the best of times; trying to fit more than one in your hand is a recipe for disaster. You won’t be able to lock them quickly, or they may be pulled from your hands.

Do not use a flexi-lead with a new rescue or a sound-sensitive dog. Many dogs get scared when their walker drops the flexi-lead and it “chases” them, clattering loudly. 

Another thing to be aware of is the failure rate of flexi-leads. Many people have experienced their flexi-lead’s lock mechanism breaking. Make sure the leash you’re using is rated for your dog’s weight and that the brand is well-rated. Always be prepared for your equipment to fail.

Do not use a flexi-lead with any kind of anti-pull device. Prong collars, choke collars, head halters, front-clip harnesses, or the pulls-on-thin-cords-in-the-dog’s-armpits anti-pull harnesses are not meant to be used with a flexi-lead. Flexi-leads encourage the dog to pull by rewarding them with more freedom of movement when they do. Ideally, a back-clipping harness should be used to protect the dog’s neck from any kind of sudden pressure when you lock the leash.

Now that you know when not to use a flexi-leash, here are some reasons you may want to.

Some dogs want privacy when pottying. A flexi-lead allows you to keep them on a leash while still giving them the space they need to be comfortable. For dogs used to pottying in a fenced yard, this can be invaluable when traveling.

For deaf dogs, being off-leash may not be an option. Some find the constant feedback of the flexi-lead’s pressure to be reassuring since they can’t hear your footsteps like other dogs can.

When exploring an unpopulated trail, a flexi-lead will allow your dog to explore and sniff to their heart’s content while keeping them from running away. 

Long lines are an alternative to flexi-leads, but carry some of the same caveats. Do not use either in crowded places, and be aware that the drag of the line over skin can cause serious friction burns quickly. Wrapping any kind of leash around your hand can cause injury, but the longer the leash the more likely this is.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Teaching your dog to enjoy taking medicine before it's needed is a good plan. When dogs aren't feeling well, they're even more suspicious of new things.

Most dogs will readily accept pills hidden in moldable, smelly foods like peanut butter, cream cheese (or another squishy cheese like brie), or products like Pill Pockets. Sometimes you can cut a small slit in the side of a piece of chicken, for example, and hide the pill in there too.

The best way to ensure the dog doesn't realize you're sneaking something weird into them is to train them to take a piece of food quickly and eat it without swallowing. (While this is difficult for some humans, dogs are adapted to gulping large chunks of food and for most dogs it won't be an issue. Dogs with injured or very weak throats might have trouble; consult with your vet about this if you have any doubts.)

To train this, have about four pieces of whatever you'll be giving them at the ready, at least one in each hand or, if you can give one treat and keep others in your hand at the same time, you can do that. Give one treat, then immediately put the next treat in front of the dog's nose. They'll likely swallow the first quickly to get to the next one. Continue with the quick presentation until you've used up your treats. Practice with empty/normal food, or with a dog-safe supplement in pill form.

When it comes time to give them a pill, put the pill treat in the middle of the sequence. If they know it's the last treat, they may take time to chew it, and they may investigate the first treat before taking it. Both can lead to the dog discovering and rejecting the medicine.

For dogs that catch treats well, tossing them the pill treat often works well too.

For the discerning dog who is sure what you're giving them is poison, or a dog who feels very ill and doesn't want to eat, you may have to simply open their mouth, put the pill treat in the back of their throat, and gently hold their mouths closed until they swallow. Gently stroking the throat from top to bottom can encourage them to swallow the pill. Even if your dog won't take the hidden pill willingly, it's kind to cover the medicine with one of the aforementioned foods, or at least offer a yummy treat directly afterwards. Most medicines taste awful! Practicing this process with plain treats ahead of time will make your dog less suspicious when you do need to give them meds.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

I now have a working tablet and lots of ideas, so expect to see some action here soon!

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Fireworks Tips

In the US, the Fourth of July is approaching, and in a few months, the UK will celebrate Guy Fawkes Day. These holidays are often celebrated with many fireworks. Here are some tips for keeping a fearful dog safe during such times.

DO NOT:

leave your dog outside - many dogs are lost each year when terror from the sound of fireworks drives them to escape their yard. Even if your dog has never gotten out before, do not assume they will stay in their yard! Keep them secure! Many humane societies report that July 4th is their busiest day of the year, with many panicked, escaped dogs picked up and brought in as strays.

use acepromazine (aka “ace,” “ACP,” “promace”) or chlorpromazine (aka “Thorazine”) to medicate your dog for fear of fireworks - acepromazine and chlorpromazine do not affect your dog’s mood or emotional reactions to the fireworks; they only make them unable to respond physically to their fear (source). This means your dog is still terrified! They may be even more scared than they would otherwise be, as they aren’t able to communicate or move normally. If your vet recommends these, ask about other options and do your research! (acepromazine and chlorpromazine may have uses in other areas, but are considered by many vets and dog trainers to be inappropriate for fearful dogs.)

punish your dog for being scared - punishing or “correcting” a dog for showing fear is not going to work. It only suppresses expression of fear, which is very dangerous - a dog who thinks that subtler communications aren’t safe will escalate to more obvious communications, including biting.

corner a fearful dog - if your dog is terrified and cowering in a corner, do not trap them there with your body. A scared dog may bite even their best friend. Sit a couple yards away, talk soothingly, and allow them to approach you if they want comfort. If they growl at you, move away calmly.

DO:

supervise your dog - keeping an eye on your pup is the best way to know they are safe.

keep ID tags on your dog - while microchips are a great help, if your phone number is easily available on your dog’s collar, it will be easier for people to get in contact with you should your dog escape. If you worry about strangulation from a collar getting caught on something, break-away collars are an option. 

talk to your vet about anti-anxiety meds if your dog has shown strong fear of loud noises before - some medications can really help noise-sensitive dogs cope with the cacophony of fireworks celebrations. Your vet can help you determine if your dog would benefit from medication.

comfort your dog - while making a big fuss and acting scared yourself can cause a nervous dog to feel more scared, a massage, cuddle, or special treats will not “reward the fear.” It isn’t possible to use rewards and good things to make scary things scarier. That’s just science - specifically, Pavlovian conditioning. Pairing a scary thing with a reward can actually turn a fearful dog into a confident one!

look into alternative help - things like Adaptil (comforting pheromones), ThunderShirts (special vests), and TTouch (organized massage) may help a scared dog feel more relaxed.

If your dog is showing some signs of fear, do some quick counter-conditioning to help them feel confident. Each time you hear fireworks, do something the dog enjoys - play tug, or throw a ball, or (easiest of all) give them a tasty treat. You may find your dog beginning to look forward to the crash of fireworks - because they mean something great is coming!

Here’s several articles from Positively.com on how to help a dog during fireworks.

Here’s a quick list from DogStarDaily.com on how to handle fireworks.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Tablet Broken - temporary hiatus

Sooo my tablet appears to be broken - no pressure sensitivity which means ugly chunky drawings. Until I get a new tablet pen, I will only be sketching and planning future ADOSK posts, so nothing new will appear here. If you want a fix of dog advice, and don’t mind naughty language, I suggest checking out my friend’s creation Foul Mouthed Fido on Facebook! As always, for training advice, I recommend the Positively forums.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

With summer approaching the Northern Hemisphere, it’s important to remember that sidewalks and roads can get very hot in the summer sun. They may get hot enough to burn your dog’s paws! So allow and encourage your dog to walk on surfaces with cooler temperatures, like dirt or grass. Sand and gravel may get warm too, so they should be tested before you have your dog walk on them. Check the temperature of surfaces with your own shoe-less foot or the back of your hand. If it feels hot to you, it will be hot for your dog.

If avoiding hot surfaces is difficult or impossible, consider dog booties. Booties with a solid sole are recommended - a thin layer of fabric or plastic material may not provide enough buffer from the heat. While dogs tend to feel uncomfortable with them at first, counter-conditioning (link to step-by-step guide) may help them adjust to their new footwear. Some dogs will dislike booties inside, but have no problem wearing them once they’re out and walking.

(And remember that booties can be useful in winter too! They can keep ice from gathering in between your dog’s toe pads, and will keep ice-melting chemicals off of your dog’s paws. These chemicals, even natural salt, can be harmful to your dog if they lick their paws after walking in them. Thoroughly cleaning the paws after a walk can also keep your dog safe from these chemicals.)

[alldogownersshouldknow]

With summer approaching the Northern Hemisphere, it’s important to remember that sidewalks and roads can get very hot in the summer sun. They may get hot enough to burn your dog’s paws! So allow and encourage your dog to walk on surfaces with cooler temperatures, like dirt or grass. Sand and gravel may get warm too, so they should be tested before you have your dog walk on them. Check the temperature of surfaces with your own shoe-less foot or the back of your hand. If it feels hot to you, it will be hot for your dog.

If avoiding hot surfaces is difficult or impossible, consider dog booties. Booties with a solid sole are recommended - a thin layer of fabric or plastic material may not provide enough buffer from the heat. While dogs tend to feel uncomfortable with them at first, counter-conditioning (link to step-by-step guide) may help them adjust to their new footwear. Some dogs will dislike booties inside, but have no problem wearing them once they’re out and walking.

(And remember that booties can be useful in winter too! They can keep ice from gathering in between your dog’s toe pads, and will keep ice-melting chemicals off of your dog’s paws. These chemicals, even natural salt, can be harmful to your dog if they lick their paws after walking in them. Thoroughly cleaning the paws after a walk can also keep your dog safe from these chemicals.)

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Hello. My daughter spilt rice krispies over the kitchen floor this morning, and my dog managed to get good amount of it before I could get him out the room. I was just wondering how bad for him this could be. He seems okay, but I'm not sure if I should be worried. Any idea?

I don’t think Rice Krispies are a danger to dogs! Granted, they shouldn’t be a main or regular part of a dog’s diet, but unless your dog has allergies to rice, it shouldn’t hurt them.In future, I would suggest calling your vet if your pup consumes anything of possible danger. They probably won’t charge you for something simple like that! I would be surprised if they did.

After-hours, if you are concerned about something your dog has eaten, the ASPCA Poison Control is a reliable, 24-hour resource. However, they do charge US$65 which can be a steep fee for many people. Google may also be a helpful resource, but I would suggest checking multiple sites and thinking critically about if the site seems trustworthy.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

I always heard the raised dishes -prevent- bloat in bigger dogs?

Here’s an article that explains it. I’ll quote the most relevant part:

In any case, here’s the finding in the largest study of its kind (1,634 dogs), one you can read and dispute at your leisure: “Cumulative incidence of GDV during the study was 6% for large breed and giant breed dogs. Factors significantly associated with an increased risk of GDV were increasing age, having a first-degree relative with a history of GDV, having a faster speed of eating, and having a raised feeding bowl. Approximately 20 and 52% of cases of GDV among the large breed and giant breed dogs, respectively, were attributed to having a raised feed bowl.” (J Am Vet Med Assoc 2000;217:1492–1499)Despite the impressive nature of these stats, it’s true that this is but one study, the only one that ever attempted to discern whether raising a bowl made any difference whatsoever. We have no conflicting research. Not yet. Though we keep looking for clues, preventing bloat remains one of veterinary medicine’s most elusive grails. More research needs to be done, certainly, but in the meantime, what can I say? Raise your bowls at your own risk…for now, anyway. 

While raised feeding bowls were recommended for a while, veterinary opinion seems to be swinging back the other way, and in matters of health I listen to vets’ opinions!

If you want to see for yourself, google “raised food bowls bloat” and you’ll see that all the results on the first page are about how raised food bowls can increase the risk of bloat in large-breed dogs; several of the first articles are from vets.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Choose your muzzle carefully!

Nylon or fabric muzzles hold a dog’s mouth shut completely, preventing the dog from biting, but also from panting, drinking, or eating. They should only be used for short periods of time while the dog is closely supervised. Situations where nylon muzzles are appropriate include being examined by a vet, nail trims, grooming, or medical treatment. Do not use nylon muzzles while the dog is exercising or walking, or for longer than about 20 minutes in nice temperatures, shorter if it’s warm or hot.

Basket muzzles are a better choice if you need to muzzle your dog on walks or for longer periods of time. Because a properly sized basket muzzle allows the dog to open their mouth, the dog is still able to pant, drink, and even accept treats.

No muzzle should be left on full-time. Remember that while a muzzled dog can’t bite, they can still scratch and “muzzle punch” - shove their nose into something or someone, hard. A muzzle punch from a large dog can cause injuries.

If you wouldn’t bring your dog into a situation without a muzzle, do not subject them to that situation just because they are muzzled unless it is unavoidable. The muzzle should be a safety net, not the first line of defense. (The exception is veterinary care and necessary grooming.)

If you’d like to train your dog to wear a muzzle, check out this guide from the ASPCA. This blog post has a great idea to help introduce a dog to a muzzle, too.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Choose your muzzle carefully!

Nylon or fabric muzzles hold a dog’s mouth shut completely, preventing the dog from biting, but also from panting, drinking, or eating. They should only be used for short periods of time while the dog is closely supervised. Situations where nylon muzzles are appropriate include being examined by a vet, nail trims, grooming, or medical treatment. Do not use nylon muzzles while the dog is exercising or walking, or for longer than about 20 minutes in nice temperatures, shorter if it’s warm or hot.

Basket muzzles are a better choice if you need to muzzle your dog on walks or for longer periods of time. Because a properly sized basket muzzle allows the dog to open their mouth, the dog is still able to pant, drink, and even accept treats.

No muzzle should be left on full-time. Remember that while a muzzled dog can’t bite, they can still scratch and “muzzle punch” - shove their nose into something or someone, hard. A muzzle punch from a large dog can cause injuries.

If you wouldn’t bring your dog into a situation without a muzzle, do not subject them to that situation just because they are muzzled unless it is unavoidable. The muzzle should be a safety net, not the first line of defense. (The exception is veterinary care and necessary grooming.)

If you’d like to train your dog to wear a muzzle, check out this guide from the ASPCA. This blog post has a great idea to help introduce a dog to a muzzle, too.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

hey, first thanks for this blog i rly like it :) i was wondering if you knew if i could do something about my dog... she looks way calmer than usual and eats less too. i was wondering if it was normal (she just passed 3 y/o so ive been told shes maturing)and if i could do something about it! thank you for your time and pardon my english :)

It’s hard to say without knowing the dog personally. Sometimes dogs do just mature, and will get calmer. Dogs also need to eat less as they grow up. However, if she’s 3 and just now eating less, I would wonder if she’s healthy. Any change in behavior can be a clue that the dog could be sick.

One of our dogs seemed almost depressed after our other dog passed away; however, when we mentioned this to our vets they did a blood test and found out that he had hypothyroidism.

I would suggest asking your vet if they think there could be anything wrong. It’s very possible that she is fine, but you don’t want to miss something if she is sick!

[alldogownersshouldknow]

We just got My three year old dog. She was a rescue, and they told us she was potty trained but she often has accidents. She pees and poops without any warning, she just goes. Is there any way to get her to stop?

It’s possible she was potty trained in the environment she was in previously, but she doesn’t apply that to her new environment! It’s also possible the rescue was lying; some aren’t as honest as they ought to be. I would first get her vet checked to make sure there’s nothing medically wrong with her; training can’t fix a medical condition!Whether with a puppy or adult dog, if you’re having multiple accidents on a regular basis, I would go back to square one. Prepare a small room or, preferably, a crate to be her “home base,” where she goes when she can’t be closely supervised. It should be fairly small - she should have room to lie down, stand up, and turn around, though. Have some wonderful, yummy, smelly treats stashed by the door so you can grab them whenever you take her outside. Dried liver works well.Until you figure out her schedule, take her out every fifteen minutes that she’s not in her crate. Choose either to stand in one spot in your yard/wherever you want her to potty for three to five minutes, or take her on a short walk. Her potty walk should be the same route every time, but her exercise walks can and should vary!

If and when she goes potty outside, calmly praise her and give her three treats, one after the other. Once you’re able to predict when she’s about to pee, start associating a cue with it - “go potty,” “pick a spot,” “sniff,” whatever works for you - by saying the word(s) right before she squats.

If she has an accident inside, know that you need to take her out more often, kindly put her in another room, and clean up the area with an enzymatic cleaner. I’ve always used Nature’s Miracle, which is easy to find and works well.

Don’t scold her or act sad or annoyed or angry when she potties inside. This will make your training more difficult - she will try to avoid going potty when you’re around, and will hide somewhere in the house to potty.

Don’t leave her alone outside during the training process. If she potties outside without you, you lose a chance to reward her for a job well done!Here’s one guide that I like. Here is Dr. Ian Dunbar’s guide, which I also recommend.

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Why are raised food dishes a risk for bloat? My dogs have raised food dishes, but their tracheas sometimes collapse, which causes them to pass out because they can't breathe, and the raised dishes help them not have to bow their heads so much. Should they still have dishes on the ground?

Raised food dishes can increase the amount of air accidentally swallowed while the dog eats. I am not a vet, but I think the collapsing tracheas are more of a concern than possible bloat - if they were my dogs, I would continue using the raised food dishes, but I would also make sure that for an hour beforehand and two hours after eating, or even longer, that they don’t do any playing or running, or extended periods of walking. You can also ask your vet for their opinion!

[alldogownersshouldknow]

Okay, I’ve queued all the public answers now. If you don’t see your question answered by Saturday, it means that tumblr ate it :( Feel free to send it again!