Amelia Jackson

Fashion Design and Marketing

[ameliajdesign]

- “More than three in five consumers said environmental impact is an important factor in making purchasing decisions.”

- “As much as 12 percent of fibres are still discarded on the factory floor, 25 percent of garments remain unsold, and less than 1 percent of products are recycled into new garments.”

Companies should:

-Invest in, incubate, pilot and test alternative materials and processes for a circular system;

-Radically reduce production waste and support, train and incentivise suppliers to reduce and reuse fibre, chemicals and packaging;

-Reskill designers and stimulate circular design innovation;

-Create momentum by collaborating and developing tools.

-Design reverse logistics to optimise value retention, either by partnering with a trusted intermediary or — more likely in the luxury space — taking direct control;

-Leverage store networks to create in-store circularity hubs;

-Build out non-store collection points and home pick-ups to improve accessibility;

-Optimise sorting facilities and recycling technology, either in-house or with partners;

-Eliminate single-use packaging.

Circularity is likely to be one of the key business trends of the next decade. However, it is not the kind of revolution that can be led by a few leaders, while others wait and see.

[ameliajdesign]

During my time at Christopher Kane, I worked with lots of different materials, crystal mesh was one of them which I have never used and found really exciting to explore.  

We were asked to fix some dresses and also make some t-shirts from singles pieces of crystal mesh and to link them all together to make whole garments. 

[ameliajdesign]

Kaftan Research! - Silhouette development 

It has been really interesting looking into the Kaftan history for my latest project. 

Beginning in the 13th century to 1923, wearing the traditional Arabic dress, as soon as a piece of textile was woven, someone thought to put a hole in it and to pull it over their heads and to even cinch in the waist with a rope, 

Russia and Persia then helped bring Caftans to the west and this was when Paul Poiret was a huge influence, who turned the s-shape corsets of the Edwardian century, into clothing that, “free’d the body from constraint”, making and asian style coat when he opened his fashion house in 1903. 

In 1928, loose fitting, drop waist dresses were the height of elegance in the 1920s. French designer, Madeline Vionnet, made bias - cut clothing, designed to hug and emphasise the natural curve of a women. 

1950′s - Cristobel Balenciaga experimented with unusual shapes. - Tunic Dress, Cocoon Coat, Balloon skirt. 1957- “Waistless sack dress”.

1968 - Yves Saint Laurent - He was hugely influenced through colour, textiles and sensuality of Moroccan culture! Other designers include: 

Pucci / Piere Cradin / Valentino / Oscar de la Renta - They included beading, rhinestones and metallic accents at the neckline on their Kaftans. 

[ameliajdesign]

The Caftan Liberation 

I have been looking at the history behind Kaftans and where they have originated from. Ancient fashion has set women free in the 1960′s! 

“The caftan moves with the air and with the body, so it goes from hiding the silhouette to emphasising it based on the movement of the wearer.” 

[ameliajdesign]

Research into WGSN concepts - Twomilesuit! I have been looking and researching different concepts, using WGSN. One of the main themes I like is the #twomilesuit! This concept would represent, homely textures/ matching sets/ stay at home style/ all dresses up to go nowhere/ feeling empowered at home.

[ameliajdesign]

Research into vintage safari Jackets - Amanda Wakeley Capsule Collection

[ameliajdesign]

My initial designs for my Amanda Wakeley capsule collection - ‘Escapism in Morocco’

[ameliajdesign]

THE BOX - Christopher Kane Sample Sale

A few weeks ago, we managed to help out in a Christopher Kane Sample Sale. The Kane archive is beautiful and the continuous style which follows through the many seasons, always represents the companies ethos. 

[ameliajdesign]

Sourcing fabric for toiles for Christopher Kane! - Fabric swatches / Fabric Sourcing

[ameliajdesign]

Christopher Kane Research I have been doing some quick three minute research sketches on the Christopher Kane Archive. The detail in the sleeves and bodice is so interesting. Some key details are: panelling/ ruching/ pleating etc

[ameliajdesign]

ADAPTABILITY AND COCOONING CONCEPT

I have been looking at fabric swatches that I could use for my potential cocooning concept. I am looking into fabrics which can be easily layered, like knit, netting, tech net, lace, contrasted with base layers like duchess satin, techno satin, etc. These materials can all adapt to the new normal and be layered. 

[ameliajdesign]

For my “Cocooning” concept I have been collaging to try and gain an idea of what kind of silhouette I would like to achieve. 

This includes:

- Layering, drapery, ruffles, oversized, transparency, gathering.

All to gain the concept of cocooning in a difficult time but being transparent to adapt to the new normal. 

[ameliajdesign]

I have looked at designers who have designed collections with multiple layers, including pleats, print, oversized!  

For example, Mame Kurogouchi Spring 2020 Ready to wear 

She focused her collection on traditional Japanese packaging - Tsutsumu and how silk worms cocoon like flowers and how they are discarded beautifully. 

She focused on: Knitwear, embroidery, outing, lingerie, printed frocks, hemlines, stitch, graphics, silk floral dresses, bell sleeves, net like garments draped of the body. 

I also looked at Sacai Spring 2019 and Come De garçon 2009, for inspiration for layering, netting, oversized knit and adjustable straps. - Making the clothing more wearable and adaptable - Just like us adapting to the new normal. See drawings and photos above to show my inspiration. 

[ameliajdesign]

‘COCOONING’

During my placement year, we have unfortunately been during a pandemic, due to Covid-19. The world has had to get used to the ‘New normal’, which can be many thinking points, with new ways to think about life. 

I have really looked into how the world coped for five months, everyone in there own ‘cocoons’ in different parts of the world, hiding from the virus. 

A potential concept I have been looking at is, how we all protected our selves in our cocoons, with lots of different layers, they might have even been transparent layers - just like a silk worm cocooning to make silk cocoons. 

I would focus on:

-Layering  - Folds  - Transparency  - Pleating   - Ruching  - Strands of layers   - Oversized   - New normal   - Envelop  - Safety Net   =  ADAPTABILITY 

[ameliajdesign]

I have been looking into a ‘MADNESS’ concept, which would allow you to release your “inner madness!!”

I really love oversized collars, pinstripes, check, volume, ruffles and embroidery. I looked at Marc Jacobs and his Summer 2020 collection. I want the concept to be about releasing your inner madness through your clothes and what you wear, into your own mystery and wonderland - ALICE IN WONDERLAND reference. 

[ameliajdesign]

My final ‘Escapism’ Spring/Summer 2021 Amanda Wakeley capsule collection. 

I have really loved designing a capsule collection for spring/summer 2021 for Amanda Wakeley. It has been really interesting focusing on the Wakeley Women and understanding the customer.

I have also loved reading about Morocco and including some indigenous craftsmanship from the Berber women, whilst keeping the designs modern,  sophisticated with a touch of Sport luxe, to keep in line with the Wakeley designs. 

To add to the finished line up, I added some accessories and designed my own three hand bags/ clutches to compliments the designs. 

[ameliajdesign]

The Final Four designs to complete the 7 look Escapism Capsule Collection. 

In these designs I focused on looking at:

- Waist bands, in embroidered indigenous craftsmanship

- Feathered and beaded trims

- Transparent, embroidered jackets inspired by military/vintage jackets

-  Embroidered Skirts, to follow my printed designs

- Techno Satin / Parachute Drape / Viscose Tailoring / Viscose Satin Materials