Anjerasu STUDIO

n00b photography on the budget. Canon EOS 60D | Canon 24-80mm f/3.5-5.6 | Canon 50mm II f/1.8 | Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 SP VC | Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 SP VC | 4 Different DSLR bags | 1 Manual Flash Gun | Yangnuo Wireless Triggers | AIPO AS-25L Dry Cabinet

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Rosewill HIVE 650w Unboxing: http://youtu.be/U7Prg5T4U4s 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Continuous 650W@40°C Single strong 12V rail -- idea for Gaming system Modular Design SLI & CrossFire Ready -- 2x 6+2pin Connector 1x Silent 135mm Fan with Auto Fan Speed Control for better silence Active-PFC with auto AC-input voltage adjustment(100-240V) Black Coating Housing Mesh sleeving on all cables for easier cable routing and better ventilation Over Temperature/Current/Voltage/Power Protection, Under Voltage Protection, and Short Circuit Protection provide maximum safety to your critical system components Safety & EMI Approval: UL, CUL, FCC, CE, CB, ROHS

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Bitfenix Shinobi Window Bitfenix Shinobi Window Red Mesh Edition w/ 2 USB 2.0, 2 USB 3.0 & 2 Red LED Spectre Fans). It's a mid-tower case which has good airflow, fan filters, more space for cable management and smoky glass panel. Great for those who would like a more simple, slick & smooth finish design. The case cost around RM270 (now at RM249). For that price range it's more towards who are on a middle budget PC builder. Review: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/BitFenix-Shinobi-Case-Review/1288 Showcase:  http://youtu.be/oIG9j65uWFk

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AMD Gaming/Rendering PC My new Gaming/Rendering Rig I recently got. One of the reasons I was 'away'. My first ever self D.I.Y build PC (but not my first PC), parts from all over the place from PC shops to online stores and garage sales.

SPEC:-

CPU: AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Mobo: GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD3 RAM: AVEXIR 宇帷國際 2x4GB DDR3 1600mhz SSD: Plextor M5S 128GB SSD Chasis: BitFenix Shinobi Window Red Mesh Edition PSU: Rosewill Hive 80+ Bronze 650w Semi-Modular  Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120M HDD: Seagate Technology 1TB GPU: Leadtek GeForce GTX 650Ti Boost 2GB Extra: NZXT LED 60cm Orange Strips,NZXT Cable Sleeving Extension

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REVIEW : AIPO 25L Dry Cabinet

About 3 days ago I decided to invest on a Dry Cabinet (Dry Box) for my camera gears. Living in a tropical weather like Malaysia, the humidity here is horrible for photographers who would spend money to buy different glass for their DSLRs. It could reach from 60-80%RH at most time, which is ideal for fungus growth. I used to believe those D.I.Y dry boxes would help protect my gears until last year 1 (maybe 2) of my lens had a lil fungus growth. I was really heartbroken as I find that reselling value would drop and the cost to clean those things would break my bank account. --------------------------------------- So for those who may want to take photography as a hobby or side job on a long term basis and you happen to stay in places like Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia or anywhere else which is under the High Humid / tropical region, should consider buying 1.  There's a lot of brands out there like AIPO, SunDry, Octopus, etc. One of the most affordable and most used is AIPO. They come in many sizes and also you could choose between Analog or Digital. If you got the cash, go Digitial. It's just so simple even a newbie can figure it out. As for budget wise, Analog, but this takes a lot of patients and some reading on how to set it.

Picture taken with HTC Sensation. 

The AIPO 25L Dry Cabinet (replacement for the 21L) is the most cheapest among all drybox, retailed about RM240. I got mine from a trusty supplier, GStrapInUse. From my setup, you're able to keep 3-4 zoom type lens and 1-2 prime lens, 1-2 DSLR (depends if you have a battery grip) and a few other items like compact camera/flash guns. But if you have heavy gears and pro-lens maybe a bigger box like 28L would be more ideal. Now for those who are seriously willing to go analog, I would have to give you an advice where it may take 3 days or more to config your dry cabinet setting.

The dial has A-B-C-D-E config (A being lowest - E highest), usually some would set it to C/D (factory settings is around C) and for ideal RH% is usually from 40-50RH% (45RH% average) for your camera gears, lower than that and you may spoil your rubber and some internal mechanism.  To begin, set it to E, why? Because you want to get your lowest reading of RH%. Tip from me is that if you leave it in a storeroom or close space, the settings should be from D-E, I did try going C-D but the RH% went to 60. Patients is the key here, at times you can get it in 2-3 hours, or a week. Just monitor the readings once in a while.

Right now my readings are from 43%-45% RH, but do keep in mind that if it rains, those readings may go up. So in order to keep you gears away from fungus, just save up and buy a dry box, no regrets. Cheers!

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Living is a tropical country has it disadvantages, especially when you got an expensive hobby :/ After like 5 years I decided to get myself a Dry Cabinet where I could keep some of my gears. Bad thing was 1 or 2 of my glass got a minor fungus attack.  

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FINALLY, ended my misery of having to clean & maintain this piece of glass. Sold it today for a dirt cheap price just so I can make way for a new lens. I got my eyes on a Tokina 11-16mm either the DX MK1 (USED) or MK II (NEW). Time to save up! 

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Happy Chinese New Year folks!

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Canon EOS 550D  This is one of the best highly recommended DSLR for both Photography & Movie Making. I got this camera as an upgrade to my Canon EOS 400D (which later then sold both bodies for a Canon EOS 60D) for it's Full HD recording function for my uni projects. If you are looking for something on a budget for movie making I seriously highly recommend this body unless you have enough cash to spill out then maybe the 600D or 650D. Another piece of advice to people buying this, is that buy the Body Only set, then maybe push some of your cash to get the Canon 50mm f/1.8 or buy a lens with the f2.8 or lenses with IS (Image Stabalization) / OS (Optic Stabalization) / VC (Vibration Compensation). So down the road, you can just change the body to a semi-pro, pro DSLR while you lens collection stays the same.

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DSLR Bag arrangement for a 6 Million Dollar Home.

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Canon 400D | Canon 550D | Canon 17-85mm | Canon 24-80mm | Canon 50mm | Sigma 70-300mm My gears from 2008-2010

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One of my wishlist for 2013, the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 and the Flycam Nano series.

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Weapon of choice.

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The Canon 17-85mm f/4-5.6 USM IS lens, seriously what can I say...it has a good all round lens for outdoors and if you have a speedlite works wonders indoors too. This is kinda the older brother to the latest Canon 15-85mm which usually comes in a kit, for most APS-C DSLR. The build is quite solid like the Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 but like it has a few problems.

An Issue with this lens which is pretty unnoticed, is that if you ever buy a lens filter, whether it's a UV, ND or CPL you have to get those super slim ones. I bought the normal filters and found out at 17mm you could find very noticeable vignetting at the corners. I had to crop or touch up a lot of photos due to this mistake.

Another problem most users have encounter with this lens is the Error message. Yes, pretty much a lot of owners get the error lens message but if you have it under warranty just send it over the to Canon service centre. I was quite unlucky and got the problem months after the warranty ended. Had to pay repairs which cost a Canon 50mm f1.8, which I was aiming for at that time. Yeah shit happens...

A year after repairs, it gave me the most biggest headache ever, the IS (Image Stabilization) got busted and I think the focus ring went nuts, send it to the Canon repair centre and got another invoice that could have gotten me a second-hand Tamron 17-50 XR Dii f/2.8. For the moment it still in my inventory but I'm trying to get it sold for an upgrade. It's basically a lost for me no matter what.

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Last year, I decided to sell off my trusty Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 APO DG Macro lens. It was my first every third party lens I bought and I must say Sigma has a really good built. I used this lens quite a lot in the photo studio before and for those looking for something cheap and on the low budget for a beginners lens, do that a look at this catch. The built quality is way better than the Tamron 70-300mm Di Macro (non VC). When buying this new at the shop you'll get a 2 year warranty (or more) and the body is made in Japan. Recently they have a newer models for this which has OS (Optical Stabilization) which really helps a lot especially with zooms from 135mm to 300mm. But if I am not mistaken the macro system has been taken off.

Overall I can say if you're into cheap budget zoom lens, take a look at this lens. Then maybe later you can save up to upgrade to those f/2.8.