At the Beauty Cooler-Nothing but all Things Beauty

My finding along the way about beauty finds as a professional in the beauty industry as well as links to links to articles i had written and other beauty finds found by other beauty junkies. https://marginadennis.contently.com

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A great breakdown of film and tv positions. https://indiefilmhustle.com/film-crew-positions/

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Wisdom Wednesday: All UVC light isn’t created equal  by Margina Dennis

A ton of UVC products have hit the market in the wake of COVID19 and I know it is a daunting task to decipher through the sea of devices with their claims.  UVC is not new technology.  It has been around for many years used in food, water purification, and medical industries to sterilize.  We know it is effective on hard surface, but to date there isn’t a single medical study that I have been able to find that says UVC has been tested on cosmetics or cosmetic brushes.  So let me tell you about the different kinds of UVC lights, why UVC is used instead of UVA and UVB, and what to consider when buying.

UV is short for ultra-violet light which is a radiation that occurs from the sun. UVC is weak at the earth’s surface because the ozone blocks it. Although all UV light has some germ killing capabilities, UVC is the most effective, meaning it takes the least amount of time.  That is why it is used over UVA and UVB.  Even though the nm (nanometer) range for for UVC is 100nm-280nm, the most effective is 260nm so you want  device who produce close to this.

There are currently three primary types of UV lighting:

LED -  Light emitting diode (LED) is a semiconductor that combines the use of aluminum to provide a light in the UVC range, typically 255nm-280nm

Mercury -  This is actually a fluorescent lamp (minus the phosphor) with mercury; the vapor from the mercury creates the UV wavelength and that “fresh air”  smell. typically 254.7nm.  And technology advances inhibit creation of zone.

Xenon -  An incandescent lamp filled with xenon gas 185nm-2200nm controlled using a pulsing  motion so that it is in the 200nm-280nm range.

UVC works by damaging the DNA or nucleus of a cell so that it cannot reproduce.   Okay, here are the cliff notes on the three:  Xenon is at this time used commercially and is very expensive, but is the most effective.  Mercury is effective and has been used for years. LEDs typically are only effective at greater power output and you need alot more of them in order for them to be effective based on the size of the container they are in and the power output.  they also a smaller beam range.    It is also extremely important as to what the housing is made of containing UVC.  Mirrored glass and aluminum are necessary when using LEDS because it allows the UVC get around the more of the exposed surface.  PVC ( a type a plastic) completely blocks the UVC wavelength so if you have a lamp in a PVC box and are using it the light won’t work.  Also anything in the unit cannot be sitting on the bottom so make sure it has a metal tray and/or rack.  There is some testing happening with pulsed higher voltage LEDs. And why the boxes and not the wands?  Exposure to UVC can be damaging to your skin and eyes.  There is working being done in this area on a safer alternative, but it i in the testing stages.

example of multi-led bag with tray and reflective interior.  Since need to get specs!

not recommended Sitting in plastic, not rack and lights are coming from the side.  the two edges of the phone are the only places really coming into contact with light.

Mercury lamps top and bottom with suspended metal tray.

I actually own this bag.  the image above is the inside with the mercury lamp on.

glass mirror interior with metal racks and mercury lamp

Okay, now for the real fun stuff.. what should you be looking for when buying.....

IGNORE THE SALES PITCH!!!!!!!  What you really need to be asking if it really works!  You will see just about every single UVC device out there with the claim UVC kills 99.9% of germs.  fact, but DOES THAT DEVICE?????  For example, if the LED power output isn’t strong enough, there aren’t enough of them and there is nothing to reflect then if might be effectively on a tiny spot on the item that is in the unit.  That isn’t effective on the entire surface of the object.  request safety data sheets (SDS) and how the testing was done.  Any company that is worth it’s salt will happily furnish that data.  Also ask how the testing was done and with what.  UVC light on a petri dish in a lab doesn’t help you.  WHAT TESTING WAS DONE WITH THE DEVICE? On what objects?  What type of germs/viruses? and for how long?  Lastly, WHAT IS THE QUALITY OF THE LIGHT SOURCE?  They should have the data from the company that they purchase those lighting technology from.  This also factors in to how effective and reliable the device will be.   And let me repeat... as far as I am aware, NO TESTING has been done with UVC and COSMETICS and COSMETIC BRUSHES.  I know UVC will work on my metal implements and my brush handles.  So for those devices out there that are making those claims, that is the first thing I would ask for data on....what brushes, what type of brushes and where are the receipts.  Link to all of the resources I used for this article are below.....

Love and Lipstick,

Margina 

https://www.clordisys.com/pdfs/misc/UV%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

https://iuva.org/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7136868/#:~:text=Pulsed%20xenon%20ultraviolet%20(PX%2DUV)%20is%20proven%20as%20an,effect%20also%20applies%20to%20clinical

https://www.iuva.org/resources/2018_IUVA_Americas_Conference/Technical-Proceedings/LEDs%20and%20Other%20UV%20Sources%202/McKain_Molly-UV-C-LED-Devices-and-Systems-Current-and-Future-State.pdf

https://www.americanultraviolet.com/uv-germicidal-solutions/essentials-of-germicidal-irradiation-for-reduction-of-microorganisms.cfml

https://www.stouchlighting.com/blog/faqs-about-uv-disinfection-lighting-the-basics

http://www.izakscientific.com/blog/uv-disinfection-led-vs-pulsed-xenon-uv-light

http://www.uvresources.com/blog/the-ultraviolet-germicidal-irradiation-uv-c-wavelength/

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/ina.12619

https://www.electronicsweekly.com/news/products/led/heat-light-uvc-leds-2017-09/

https://www.powerelectronictips.com/when-it-comes-to-uv-c-led-lights-buyer-beware/

https://www.ledsmagazine.com/leds-ssl-design/packaged-leds/article/16695812/reconsider-uvc-led-lifetime-for-disinfection-based-on-development-decisions-magazine

https://www.klaran.com/images/kb/application-notes/Using-UV-Reflective-Materials-to-Maximize-Disinfection---Application-Note---AN011.pdf

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Are you a Follower or a Leader? by Margina Dennis

Okay, I have to address the elephant in the room with beauty community in relation to #COVID19.  I’ve been seeing alot, and I do mean alot of certificates posted from a certain beauty product site.  I took that same “certification”  before I knew exactly it was.  I thought the certification was going to actually help me to understand this plague that we are dealing with and help me to further keep my clients in my #makeup chair safe.  I was disappointed to find that this “certification” was nothing more directions that you find on the actual cleaning product and how to use the product.  And then I saw “official looking” websites popping up and products trying to capitalize on this #pandemic we are dealing with and again alot of  people jumping on a bandwagon without digging deeper or questioning it.  Unfortunately, we have serious consequences if we don’t do our due diligence.  No one is going to accept “well, Sally told it was great to use”  as an acceptable response if shit goes sideways.  We  have an obligation to our clients and our business to go the extra mile and get it as right as we possibly can.  The responsibility legally falls on us.  We need to operate from being prepared, not scared and hoping for the best.

So what should be looking for when it comes to education and product information when it comes to the #newnormal that we now live in?

1.  Understand infectious diseases and not just COVID19 -  whether you are self taught or went to school, this is critical to know because when you learn about these things, you also learn how they are caught, how they spread, and how they “neutralized or killed”.  This will also play into way products or methods will will be using in your business to minimize exposure and contamination.

2.  Understand the difference between Sanitizing, Disinfecting, and Sterilizing.  What Procedures/Products do these.  How they pertain to what you use to services.   What the difference is between Porous and Non-Porous surfaces?   For example glass is non-porous and plastic is considered porous.  Think about things that you use in your business and what processes maybe be necessary to rid them of any viruses or bacteria.  This is better understood when you have the knowledge.

3.  Understand that there is a difference between a sales pitch and a SDS (Safety Data Sheet)

A sales pitch is just that.... to tell you what they think you want to hear so that you buy.  Safety Data is information that shows what testing has been down.  I’ve included a link to a SDS here.  And it is so important to understand how that pertains to our business!   So if a company for example is claiming that their product kills 99.9% percent of germs, what exactly does that mean?  and where is the data to back that up?  Have they done any testing?  Have they done any testing on the items/products that they are claiming the product works on?  where are the test results? If it is a course, where is the data coming from that they talk about in the course? I watched a “certification”  from a known reputable company that did not have a single reference to where they got their “facts”  and because I was aware of information on the CDC and OSHA websites, I was able to spot a few instances where they were providing false information.    You have the right to ask for and receive this data!

4.  Just because EPA or OSHA says that a product or technology kills a virus or bacteria doesn’t mean it is still okay to use in a way different than it was tested for.  For example, we know that bleach kills COVID and many other things on surfaces, clothes, etc.  but that does not mean it is okay for us to drink it.  It is important to read the directions for usage not only to make sure you are using it correctly so that the product is effective but also so it is safe.  Again, always refer to directions on the packaging, not a sales pitch or sheet.

Yes, I am aware that talking about this stuff can mind numbing, scary, and daunting at same time.  Unfortunately, we have to take the fun with the not so fun.  We are all running a business.  Our safety, the safety on set, and the safety of those we are working on are depending on us getting with the program.  

Love and Lipstick,

Margina

Useful Links:

CDC

EPA

more CDC

OSHA

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Okay Let's Talk about TFP (testing for prints) by Margina Dennis

photos by J. Lafferty  

TFP is a term that originated from the print days,  meaning testing for prints;  another variation is TFCD which is testing for CD. (I know, I'm showing my age)! I wanted to give some clarification to those who are confused when they see this term and shed some light on this very elusive subject!  A test is basically a collaboration of people coming together working for the same thing, to get something for their book. It can also be an editorial spec, which is where you shoot a fashion or beauty story to be submitted to magazines and hopefully picked up by one of them. 

 1. The term TFP and JOB: the two should never cross - A test is something where the team is coming together to get images for their portfolio/reel/ etc. A Job is where a client is financially benefiting from the images/video/commercial/ etc. and is bringing together a team to execute their vision. Big difference! And the following or any variation on this sentence is NOT TFP "Designer is looking for a MUA for TFP for their lookbook shoot....." Sorry Boo Boo that is a job... and you can substitute the word "collaboration" for TFP and it is still a Job :-) And JOBS  are things we get paid for :-) 

2. TFP and kit fee are also two things that do not go together - A kit fee is a motion term. Motion is film, TV, video, etc. The term kit fee is for the rental of your kit, so it is the rental of the use of the items for a motion production (which is also different than the purchase of products for the production). If you aren't feeling the shoot, or it's not something you need, politely decline or let them you are available for a paid test. Using TFP and kit fee together in the same sentence unfortunately sends a message of "Hi, I'm really new and don't know what I am doing and I heard someone else does this." 

3. Remember it is a collaboration - You shouldn't expect you to get a zillion pictures or even a CD of images. You should expect to get a few images for your book and the images that will you receive will be based on what is best (hopefully) for the team. Remember, it's not all about you! If it is a fashion shoot and you want more beauty images, be prepared to pay for those images to be retouched which can be $40-$300 plus depending on how much needs to be done to them and the level of expertise of the retoucher. 

 Okay, let's talk about some things you should look for when you looking to do TFP or are responding to someone who is asking you to do TFP! 

 1. Do you like their work? Is this something you can use at this time? If the answer is no to either of these, then you probably shouldn't do the test. 

 2. Are you all on the same page with the vision of the shoot. This is SO important and why it is imperative that you seen mood board/storyboards or a Pinterest giving you a direction where the shoot is going. 

3. Who is the rest of the team on the shoot? What models are you looking to use? Remember, that you are only one element of the team and the team can make or break the shoot. Unfortunately, no one is going to single out your fantastic makeup or hair work when everything else just isn't working or just plain sucks. 

4. Post production (photoshop) or lack thereof - This is also something that take a great test and make it not so great so you want to study this when you are looking at the photographer’s website. If you see images that are over the place ranging from no retouching to weird to something that looks plastic, this is probably not a person who is going to be the best person to test with because you don't know what you are going to get. And on the subject of plastic, if every picture looks the person was created by a computer, it is also not going to be a good representation of your work. Current trend is skin looking like skin, complete with pores! 

 Things you should do when you are working on a TFP: 

 (example of very light and appropriate retouching, photo: N. Ruechel ) 

1. Communicate! I have heard so many stories of people just showing up and not having any idea what they were doing or what was going on a test. Don't be so excited about doing a test that you neglect to have a conversation. Communication helps make sure it is the test for you or to help make it a great test! This also includes discussing how long you will be waiting for images. 

 2. Don't a B*tch! Yes, I said the "B" word!. Remember, it is a collaboration, not the "me" show. If you want the shoot to be all your concept with no regard for the other team members, then get your shoot budget together and hire EVERYONE to create your vision or find a team that is 100 percent on board with it. 

3. Be professional! Treat a test like a job. If people see you conducting yourself in a professional manner, then they can see you conducting yourself in that same manner on a job :-) So that means showing up on time, having a clean and organized kit; being clean and not looking like you rolled out of bed :-) 

 Now get out there and get your TFP on! 

 Love and Lipstick, 

 Margina 

XO 

 About the author: When Margina isn’t working on set shooting an advertising campaign or teaching, she can be found exploring museums, interesting restaurants, and locations. For more information on Margina’s work and teaching/coaching. Please visit https://www.beautybeautebeauti.com​ and ​https://www.marginadennis.com​ .

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Why I decided to do this webinar....

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=RDCMUCuoxrRDDgk3UUnxR4tlkJYQ&v=jCMACJq3XJY&feature=emb_rel_end

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The Great COVID19 Blow Dry Debate by Margina Dennis

I wasn’t kidding when I said Sara Seidman Vance and I have long conversations about hot beauty topics in a COVID19 world.  I had read that the CT Governor New Lamont had reversed his stance on blow drying in his state and asked Sara her thoughts on it.  There is an article explaining why he changed his mind and could see both sides of the equation.  Since I respect and value Sara’s opinion, I asked her thoughts about it and if she thought blow drying could be done safely.  Without hesitation she said “Yes”.

We are both concerned with someone coughing or sneezing or COVID19 being on a surface and the air acting as an aerosol and propelling the virus.  Sara described two different scenarios:  a makeup trailer and a salon.  In a makeup trailer, she described acrylic partitions and low and behold an article came out saying the same thing! https://www.wcpo.com/rebound/getting-a-haircut-be-ready-for-masks-partitions-new-rules

(Photo courtesy of Sara Seidman Vance)

“You could also use these for makeup to create a barrier.”   “It’s important that they aren’t too high as they will block necessary light for work” Sara added.  In a salon a Japanese dressing screen could be used.  And why Acrylic?  It’s non-porous, so it can be easily disinfected and sterilized.

Sara added, “If there is a ceiling fan, the blades should be pulling the air up, and not pushing it down to work in along with air ventilation.”

She offered further instructions on how to make it work and help to minimize aerosol exposure.  (Of course stylists should have proper PPE on as mandated by their location)  “Stylists should be washing their client’s hair since COVID19 does not do well in soap and water beforehand. Hairstylists that are blow drying should be positioned facing the same direction so that your back is to the person positioned next to you.   “That it keeps the air blowing in the same direction.” “Clients should be wearing protective eye wear and masks if possible or nasal filters in the very least.  If the salon or stylist is providing eye wear it should be either disposable or eye wear that can be disinfected and possibly sterilized.”

Sara has an easy to understand diagram of how stylists and clients are positioned, along with positioning of air conditioning.  If you are interested in receiving, please shoot me an email at [email protected].  Here are links to information you may find useful.  This is information intended to be helpful.  Neither Sara or I are OSHA specialists but have been doing alot of reading and information gathering in the industry we love.  We recommend that you still do your homework and confer with your local government standards.

Love and Lipstick,

Margina XO

Links:

https://www.saraseidmanvance.com

https:// www.beautybeautebeauti.com

https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/downloads/2019-ncov-factsheet.pdf

https://www.nbcconnecticut.com/news/coronavirus/blow-dryers-and-hair-dryers-both-can-be-used-as-needed-at-salons-for-may-20th-reopening-state-officials/2269922/

https://www.wcpo.com/rebound/getting-a-haircut-be-ready-for-masks-partitions-new-rules

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Tips to Safer Airbrushing by Margina Dennis

Last week I was having a long discussion with Sara Seidman Vance and we were talking a lot of things makeup. If you don’t know who Sara is, not only is she a lighting expert and an award winning makeup artist, but she is also someone who keeps up on sanitation and infectious disease within the skin/beauty realm like myself.  I asked her if she thought airbrush was a good idea in the COVID19 world that we exist in since I knew that people would think it would be a safer alternative than touching someone to apply makeup.  Neither one of us are ventilation specialists, but we are both concerned about the airbrush further propelling aerosol droplets if someone should sneeze in the vicinity of the gun while it is spraying that is infected with the virus.

So if you have to airbrush, here are some things you should think about implementing:

1.  Airbrush only in an enclosed room with good ventilation.  This protects you and the client and also minimizes exposure to others.  Ventilation would be an exhaust type, like the kind on a stove to pull the air up.  

2. The person performing the service would need to be wearing appropriate COVID19 protection.  Since the person getting the service cannot wear a mask, nasal filters could be worn as a barrier.  This will also aid in makeup not being inhaled into the lungs.  Alternatively, the person being airbrushed should have a tissue or cloth in their hands to catch a sneeze or cough while they are being airbrushed.

3.  No makeup should be open in the room while the airbrush is being done and minimize the exposure of anything porous.

4. Minimize conversation and no cell phones.

5.  After you are done thoroughly wipe down chair, counters, and other hard surfaces with an appropriate disinfectant and also disinfect the floor.

Here some links to a few articles that you may find interesting:

https://www.the-scientist.com/news-opinion/the-covid-19-coronavirus-may-travel-in-aerosols-67380

https://www.perioimplantadvisory.com/periodontics/oral-medicine-anesthetics-and-oral-systemic-connection/article/14173521/covid19-and-the-problem-with-dental-aerosols

https://www.choice.com.au/health-and-body/beauty-and-personal-care/skin-care-and-cosmetics/articles/spray-cosmetics-safety

https://www.who.int/news-room/commentaries/detail/modes-of-transmission-of-virus-causing-covid-19-implications-for-ipc-precaution-recommendations

Love and Lipstick,

Margina XO

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GET FOUND BY YOUR IDEAL CLIENTS IN GOOGLE WITH SEO

Something to do while you are on COVID19 House Arrest :-) Meg conducts an easy to understand webinar.

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a Video that I did on Sanitation while Applying Makeup!

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Five Tips for Makeup Kit Hygiene by Margina Dennis

As a professional makeup artist, kit health has always been of importance for the people in my chair. Some of the tips I’ve had in practice for years, others have added as the years have gone on; and others I have added as an extra layer with cold, flu, and covid 19 season upon us.  These suggestions can offer peace of mind to you and to those sitting in your makeup or hair chair.

1.  Wash Your Hands -  I know this is a given as people who work so closely with the public, but there is actually a method to the madness.  Not only do you want to make sure to use soap, but you want to wash your hands “for the amount of time it takes to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ twice” according to the World Health Organization.  For more details, (visual and written instructions on proper handwashing), visit https://www.who.int/gpsc/clean_hands_protection/en/  I have added Vionex to my kit so that I always have soap with me to wash my hands.  I have also started carrying Simply Natural Wood Fiber Cleaning Cloths -  They use clothes similar to these in Japan in the Sushi restaurants to wipe down surfaces because they are antimicrobial and reusable.  They can be used as set up towels.  

2.  Hand Sanitizer -  As artists, we do not always have the luxury of going to wash our hands after every single client.  I always have hand sanitizer in my kit for use.    With hand sanitizer being in short supply, you can make your own at home using at least 91 percent isopropyl alcohol and witch hazel and/or aloe vera gel.  Adding essential oils are not necessary but can be added as a fragrance and can offer additional antiviral and antimicrobial properties.  You can also make your own hand sanitizing wipes!  https://www.wfmynews2.com/article/news/health/how-to-make-hand-sanitizer/83-7f0e5a73-f922-4528-89b1-f0774a5912a7

3.  Hospital Grade Cleanser -  I like to wipe down my makeup station before setting up to start with a fresh surface before putting down my setup towel.  Sanizide wipes have been a favorite of mine because I can buy them in individually sealed wipes.  Cavicide is also great.  These cover a broader spectrum of disinfecting than regular alcohol does. Make sure to use gloves or wash your hands immediately after using.  https://safetec.com/portfolio_item/sanizide-plus-germicidal-wipes/

4.  Makeup Tools and the Makeup Itself - Quick drying brush cleaner, like Dante and Beauty So Clean Sanitizer Mist, are staples in my makeup kit.   When I get home not only do I use a brush soap to clean my brushes, but I also expose them to UV-C light.  Ido the same with my all makeup that has been used.  UV-C is the same light that you see in portable toothbrush carriers that are used to sterilize them.  Brush Medic is a Brush Dryer and has a UV light so that it dries and sanitizes at the same time.  I have a portable bag with a UV-C light that will fit my palettes and runs on USB.  I haven’t used C3 by Bactronix spray yet but it seems like a viable option to use on hard non-porous surfaces.

5.  Things We Don’t Think About - We should be wiping down/cleaning things that we use every day such as our phones, earbuds, tablets, keyboards, monitors, chargers, set bags, makeup bags, etc. All of these items come in contact with things in the outside world.  We should be wiping down things like steering wheels, handles, light switches, the knobs on our faucets.  And if you are feeling like you should, keep a pair of disposable gloves and a disposable mask in your kit. 

Love and Lipstick,

Margina

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Being Grateful and  Staying Positive When Your Striking Out on Work by Margina Dennis

The life of a freelancer unfortunately includes dealing with alot of rejection when it comes to work.  How we deal with that rejection can affect how motivated we are to keep plugging away hunting for the next opportunity.

The last eighteen months of my makeup career have been a challenge.  I found out my agency was closing and the road to a new agency hasn’t been a smooth one.  I feel like Goldilocks who is encountering porridge and beds that aren’t just right.  And when I thought I had found the perfect home, they then in turn didn’t I was the perfect occupant. During this time I intentionally made some strategic changes with my business and as a result, have been up for higher profile work opportunities with higher rates.  I was making good strides but hit a brick wall in the last few months and am now batting a big zero.  I’m human and of course got bummed out.  But I had to remind myself that I was in the running for these opportunities and that I had worked hard to get myself to this point.  Sometimes we get so focused on the few negative things that we forget about all of the positive things that happened before we hit that bump in the road.  Isn’t it craziness that being a freelancer can sometimes make us feel like the biggest winner and the biggest loser all in the same week??!!!

I encourage you to find three recent achievements in your business and put them as positive reminders in your office space.  It’s okay to be your own cheerleader! I had to remind myself that during this “slump” 1) I was hired to consult with huge international company 2) Did makeup on famous icon  that I have looked up to years 3) Have worked on smaller ad campaigns. Here’s to successful freelancing and leveling up!

Love and Lipstick,

Margina 

*Want to be better at being a freelancer?*  Make sure you are on my mailing list!  Help is on its way!

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Assumption = A Lack of Communication by Margina Dennis

Okay it’s time for one of those tough love talks for those of us in the lovely world of freelance.  I am seeing alot of folks getting pissed off about things that could be avoided by just talking or asking for clarification; but instead are assuming or being passive.  Being a freelance professional can give us opportunities to work on cool projects. The not so fun reality is that we are all SMALL BUSINESS OWNERS.  WE ARE NOT EMPLOYEES!

 It’s our responsibility to 

1) clarify how much we are getting paid 

 2) find out when we are getting paid and 

 3) confirm how many hours we are working 

 4) know who is responsible for job related expenses 

 5) spell out kill fees/cancellation policies and 

 6) clarify our job responsibilities.

We cannot assume that the person we are potentially working for follows the same rules or guidelines as we do. We have to have professional business conversations and get these responses agreed upon in writing. That also acts as a guide to protect you and the client in the event some problem arises later. Both of you can refer back to the written agreement for clarification.  It allows helps to keep the parties involved from getting butt hurt because everything is worked out ahead of time.  This aids you in creating healthy work boundaries. Creating clarification and boundaries in the beginning can make it easier to renegotiate for a higher rate if they want you to perform additional job responsibilities or work additional hours.  For example, I was a job one time that the rate was negotiated for makeup only even though I had asked repeatedly about hair.  So I made sure that my deal memo said that I was being hired for makeup only for the agreed upon rate for the agreed upon time.  Needless to say, I brought a small hair kit with me and renegotiated my rate to include hair once they expected me to perform that service.  I did not assume that after the job they would take of me.  After the job is done, you no longer have any leverage because your services are no longer needed.

So take a deep breath, put on a smile, and have those conversations!  They’re not so scary when you are prepared to ask questions and be proactive.  

Love and Lipstick,

Margina 

Your Freelancing Fairy Godmother 

P.S.  Like the information in my blog?  Make sure you are on my mailing list something VERY EXCITING is coming VERY SOON!  

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Just the Tip Tuesday:  Let’s Talk about Collaborating.... what it is and what it isn’t by Margina Dennis

Happy Tuesday!  I wanted to address this subject because I have found collaboration has become a dirty little word... YES a dirty little word!  Why?  Because people are starting to use it to signify the same meaning as a TEST.  While collaborating is indeed a group of people coming together to create something, that can be said for anything including  paid work.  So for those new and not so new, I want to give some examples of collaborations that are tests and some that should be fully compensated assignments.  Before we play this guessing game, let me first explain the definition of a TEST/TFP.  A test is people coming together where the purpose is to create product  to help promote their business.  No one should be financially benefiting.. the purpose is to create the art that everyone is on board to create... Okay now for some fun!

SCENARIO 1:  “Hi there, I am wondering if you are interested in doing makeup for my amazing clothing line.  It’s going to be a great collaboration and an amazing team model, photographer, and hairstylist are on board.  I think your work is amazing and it’s going to be such a fun shoot!  It’s a passion project so no money :-(”

SCENARIO 2: “I’m a recording artist with a huge social media following and am looking to do shoot a video for my new single.   I’m not with a label so there is no budget for this but I always credit everyone I work with and it would be great exposure for you.  I work with fun and amazing people so it will be a fun day.  I saw the last video you did and I am so in love with your work!”

SCENARIO 3: “I’m an actress in need of new headshots and am up for a huge part for a major motion picture.  I’m on the brink of hitting it big and plan on taking my people with me.    I’m broke because I have to get myself to the audition but I am loyal!  It will be super easy so it won’t take too much time!”

SCENARIO 4: “Hi we are Brand X.  We would love to send you some of our products to try.  It would be great if you could talk about our products on your IG/You tube channel and film a video of you using and talking about our products to your followers and explaining how you like to use them.  Here are the hashtags to use thanks!  Please let us know where to send the products!”

The answer is:  THESE ARE JOBS?  Yep, you bet they are!  All of these are jobs and EVERY SINGLE PERSON SHOULD BE COMPENSATED.  I don’t mean by some free image, video, or product.  The personal financially benefiting is the person asking so everyone else should be financially compensated period.  Their financial situation has nothing to do with you and it is not how you build your business.  It’s actually a shortcut to more opportunities just like these... unpaid.    Scenario 1 could be a lookbook, catalog, or an advertising job.  Scenario 2 is a music video to promote new music.  Scenario 3 is an acting portrait used to secure paid work.  Scenario 4 is Branded Content which is advertising.

Let’s make 2019 the year to work smarter not harder!  And if you are not on my mailing list yet, make sure you SIGN UP HERE cuz some exciting stuff is happening VERY SOON that you are gonna to want to be part of!  I would hate for you to miss out cuz 2019 is gonna be OUR YEAR!

Love and Lipstick,

Margina

[atthebeautycooler]

I'm finding that many artists don't understand or ask for overtime because they think they will be perceived as greedy or not a team player. Many times things will not be offered to you unless you ask for them. I'm going to explain why defining work terms and asking for overtime or a higher flat rate payment is important.

For the longest time an 8 hour day for print and ten hour for video production was pretty standard and no one really tried to deviate from that. But now there is alot of expectation of people working for 12 hours straight and now I am seeing 14 hours creep in. The expectation is you are working without any additional payment of overtime because they are telling you a rate based on when they think they will wrap. You will also hear things like "You won't end up working that long" or "It's what everyone else is getting." What everyone is allegedly doing has no basis on you and it is the wording used to get you to go along with this. Let me try to explain to you what is actually happening when you agree to this types of terms:

Did you know when you fill out a timecard that is being used to pay you that it is based on an 8 hour day? If you are union artist, you already understand how it works. How many times had you heard "don't worry about filling out anything, I'll take care of the rest" because your money is not being calculated the way that you think so let me break it down for you. Unfortunately we have lost the battle of an 8 hour day with our pay being based on but the payroll is still calculated on that.

Say you have agreed to be paid $200/10. You think you are being paid $20/hour right? Wrong!!! You are actually getting $18.245 an hour...let me show you the math:

18.184 x 8 hours = 145.46

27.27(1.5) x 2 = 54.54

Equals $200 for 10 hours

So if you are agreeing to working a flat 12 you are actually getting around 16/ hour and 14/ hour if you are working $200/14.

If you are wondering what the big deal is...let me show you what you would actually be making if you negotiated $200/10. With overtime of (1.5) starting at 10 hours and double time (2.0) after 12 hours:

18.184 x 8 145.54

27.27 x. 4 = 109.08 $254.62 pay for 12hrs

36.37 x 2 = 73.74 $328.36 pay for 14hrs

And if you are working an 8-hour day $200/8, you are actually making $25.00 an hour. And this is what you would be making working overtime:

10-hour day (2 hours OT) $275.00

12-hour day (4 hours OT) $350.00

14-hour day (6 hours OT) $450.00

See how it is significantly more $$$?

Now if everyone in production is going along you can see how much they are not paying out!!!!

So if production is being adamant of you working a 12 or a14 hour day you should be adamant on getting a higher base pay or overtime. #themoreyouknow #dontgetmoneyscrewed

Love and Lipstick,

Margina

Beautybeautebeauti.com

[atthebeautycooler]

Now that I have your attention 😉 I wanted to write a very special #thirstythursday post about "opportunities". Unfortunately the word "opportunity" has become a four letter dirty bird word to me. Why? Because these days it is commonly used to try to sell someone on doing something for free or for signicantly less than what they should be paid....what I affectionally refer to as a "money screw".

Artists new and seasoned fall victim of this hustle, so I want to share with you some of the common ones so that you can resist temptation. Please don't think that you will be that one unicorn that will be the exception and that it will work in your favor. You would have better odds buying a lottery ticket! Here are five examples of #moneyscrews to avoid and why:

1. Any product company photoshoot for their website, instagram, print etc. - It typically sounds something like: "New clothing company doing photoshoot for their website. A great opportunity for a new artist to get experience and images." NOPE...this is a job...the company will be using the images to sell their products and they will be making money off of those images with your work.

2. Working photographer/producer trolling on Craigslist, Model Mayhem, Thumbtack, etc. looking for hair/makeup - They will usually name drop a big client or magazine they have work like "Vogue photographer doing a passion project. Great opportunity for the right person." They know how to find people and they have a full rolodex of people they work with and know how to find them. But they would never dream of asking them to do that shitty favor so they go looking for the low/no budget bitch that will get sucked in. This is not your ticket to working with them on something fabulous...trust.

3. The non-internship - This is an actual job being given the title of internship. It sometimes looks like this: "Company looking for social media intern. Intern would be responsible for running company social media. Great opportunity and resume builder for the right person." That is a job straight up. An actual internship you would be learning from the person doing this job and not be the person responsible for the job! When I see these listed I usually screen grab and send to the screen along with a link to the department of labor. And if you wonder why just Google Conde Nast intern lawsuit and you will understand why.

4. Multiple people in a day photo shoots - That is a paid testing situation. No photographer is just going to shoot a herd of aspiring models in one day in a bunch of looks unless there is money involved....and that is called paid testing. That means there better be money for you too. Don't get sucked into working for images.

5. Low paying job off casts by other makeup/hair artists or other creatives. These will usually get posted because the person who took it got a better paying offer and is now looking to fill it to keep their options open with the low payer. Or they believe that we don't really do anything and therefore shouldn't be paid that much or nothing at all. They start out with "I know it's low", or "This is my good friend's passion project", or "Great opportunity to break in" or something along those lines. These same artists tend to think that any money is good money which I completely disagree with and will talk about in depth in a future blog post. This is also why it is so important to have a grasp on what rates should be so that you don't take a job and later find out that you should have been paid double or triple that rate. That person isn't going to magically pay what you should have gotten later and will then refer you to other like-minded people.

These are 5 #moneyscrews that immediately came to mind...do you have one you'd like to share? Is love to hear it! And make sure you are signed up for my mailing list because I will be sharing tips on how to respond to the money screwers September 1st with my subscribers. You don't want to miss out!

Love and Lipstick,

Margina

Xoxo

Your Beauty Yoda

Beauty Beaute Beauti Workshops Webinars Consulting for the Beauty Biz

We take a different approach to helping you improve your business whether you are a makeup artist, photographer, hair stylist, nail artist o

[atthebeautycooler]

Check out @makeuptogo’s Tweet: https://twitter.com/makeuptogo/status/1032428935542276096?s=09

If you don't know the difference between an internship and someone trying to get you to work for free. This is a great read.