Floss and Needle

A place to collect thoughts and research into recreation of historical periods. With a focus on textiles, the small details of life and photos of events that I travel to. Visit Crumpetty's profile on Pinterest.

[crumpetty-blog]

Working on some patterning for *another* new project :) This set of cuffs and collars is for a dear friend of mine being peerified into the Order of the Laurels. What I affectionately call being Laurelised. She's an awesome apprentasister, so when she asked whether myself and our other apprentasister to work on a project together, I don't think I could have been more excited. I am very pleased to be project leading and also crazy nervous. Thankfully, my other apprentasister is crazy talented, so this all should come together nicely. The project as it stands is a set of collars and cuffs for both herself and her partner, in time for her ceremony in August. The flavour is Tudor and blackwork. I'm currently in the planning stage. Alex's cuff is in the final stage of design, Owen's is still being worked on. For Alex's cuff, I combined a variety of things that she was hoping to see, the main important components being a star and a hart (the imagery in her heraldry). The over all design is a combination of three designs from the 'Modelbuch all Art Nehens vn Stickens', a german woodcut book by Christian Egenolff originally compiled in the 16th century and reprinted in 1880. You can find the book here: http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org/pub/PDF/EgenolffModelbuch.pdf Antique Pattern Library is awesome! It's going to be completed in stem stitch, which means a blessed break from counted work! I've been reading a bit about the probability of whether counted work was very common, fascinating stuff! At the moment, the project list is the following: - Counted work blackwork cuffs and collars (being stitched, one cuff completed) - Collars and Cuffs to be completed by August - Rus Collar and CUffs for Henri - Possible 15th century style pouch

[crumpetty-blog]

A few of the photos taken during Rowany Festival 2015 :)

[crumpetty-blog]

I thought I would post these guys up here. This is how I practice my counted black work and experiment with stitches. This is a small blackwork sampler that is eventually going to be chopped up and made into pincushions, to be given as largesse (Yes, I know that pin cushions made like this aren’t really pre 17th century, but these gifts are handy for B&B’s to have). In this form it’s small enough folded up that I can pop it into my pocket (with the needle safely hidden inside the fabric) and practice pretty much anywhere. The patterns I will often take a photo of on my phone and reference from it. At a certain point, I will stop checking my phone picture to force myself to remember the pattern that I have been using which is a fantastic skill to build up. It’s also about learning how to tension without using a frame. Practicing like this is not only a perfectly medieval thing to do (samplers are seen in lots of paintings) but means that you build up skills without having to worry about ‘ruining’ something special. You will notice from the pictures I’ve taken of the back that I have played around with different stitches and occasional become completely confused with how to make it work.

Plus, embroidering in public starts the most awesome conversations and shows people that embroiderers are not just granny’s. Not that I don’t love granny’s, but everyone should be embroidering. Everyone. I also love embroidering in my lunch breaks (with an amazing bunch of colleagues who have slowly started bring their projects in as well) and while at the games table. Lastly, if you like reading, try listening to audio books while embroidering! It leaves your fingers free to work while listening to amazing books. My current favourite at the moment is John Scalzi books read by Wil Weaton!

:)

[crumpetty-blog]

Heya all :)

I know that I haven’t been around much lately, sometimes I find it hard to post when I’ve left it awhile. It’s surprising that social anxiety can affect you even when you can’t see the people!

So this is the completed Gryphon purse I have been working on for a while! This is silk thread on slubby linen, using split stitch. It’s appliquéd onto the velvet using silver thread for the pretty couching. I finger braided the trim and the cord for opening and closing the bag and linen it in white linen. Lastly, I popped the tassels onto the bottom of the bag, because who doesn’t like tassels?

What would I do differently? I would change a lot of the shading on the gryphon, it’s not quite right but a good first try. I’ve had a few people note that I should try colouring in a paper version of my patterns first so that I can sort out in my mind what the shadowing should look like. I would probably construct the bag a little differently. Otherwise, I’m pretty happy for what it is. It’s been popped into the guild for grading and then is being donated to the local barony to become a gift.

[ladyemlyn]

o.o I saw this in person. I didn’t realise you were in Lochac!!

[crumpetty-blog]

Yep :)

I'm finding this a little hilarious because suddenly people are recognising who I am, but I have no idea who anyone else is. Which seems similar to my experiences at physical events too :)

[crumpetty-blog]

Heya all :)

I know that I haven’t been around much lately, sometimes I find it hard to post when I’ve left it awhile. It’s surprising that social anxiety can affect you even when you can’t see the people!

So this is the completed Gryphon purse I have been working on for a while! This is silk thread on slubby linen, using split stitch. It’s appliquéd onto the velvet using silver thread for the pretty couching. I finger braided the trim and the cord for opening and closing the bag and linen it in white linen. Lastly, I popped the tassels onto the bottom of the bag, because who doesn’t like tassels?

What would I do differently? I would change a lot of the shading on the gryphon, it’s not quite right but a good first try. I’ve had a few people note that I should try colouring in a paper version of my patterns first so that I can sort out in my mind what the shadowing should look like. I would probably construct the bag a little differently. Otherwise, I’m pretty happy for what it is. It’s been popped into the guild for grading and then is being donated to the local barony to become a gift.

[ladyemlyn]

o.o I saw this in person. I didn’t realise you were in Lochac!!

[coldsnacks]

Clicked through and as soon as I saw Cuthbert I knew who this was :-)

[crumpetty-blog]

Hahahahahaha! I thought I was being pretty sneaky in my blogging :)

[crumpetty-blog]

A little bit of progress on the blackwork and some thoughts on pattern transcribing…

Are all blackwork patterns made equal? Hell no, as I am currently proving. The biggest hurdle I am currently facing is whether to completely grid this or whether to think about going prick and pounce method. The problem that I can really see, is that this pattern honestly seems to be using a bit of column a and a little of column b. With cross stitch thrown is for extra giggle.

The straight lines of the knot work look like they might be counted, but the flowers look eyeballed due to slight differences throughout. Not to mention trying to work out linen thread count to the grid book is doing my head in. By the time I get this done, I have a feeling I will have well earned my white linen payment!

[vikinginireland]

What threadcount do you use? I’m having a lot of difficulty doing blackwork on linen. I was happy with how the embroidery looked on aida, but obviously the fabric doesn’t look period.

[crumpetty-blog]

Hello vikinginireland ! Sorry this is a really late reply, considering I’ve been on here a little while you would think I would have worked out how to reply a lot sooner! Yep, Aida never looks quite right, but no one is going to notice generally until they get way closer to you :) I’ve been using evenweave linen from the local embroidery shop. It’s fairly expensive, but when you are doing collars and cuffs you don’t need a huge amount. The down side of this is that even weave technically isn’t right either because they probably would have just been working on normal linen. Maybe finer linen, but it wouldn’t have been perfectly even woven. The other thing to note here is that medieval blackwork is not perfectly even. If you look at extant pieces, a lot of the time it is a bit wobbly in places which makes a lot of sense when you think about their fabric options. There is even suggestion that not much of it was actually counted work, and may have just been been using transfer pattern or amazing eyeballing skills. Which would explain why the period manuals from the time period don’t really include a grid to count stitches on (unlike voided work that does). In the end, the modern eye likes things to look nicely symmetrical. To sum this up: - Perfectly symmetrical looks super pretty and personally I love it, but technically probably isn’t period - Non-symmetrical and a bit wobbly is period but not as pretty for the modern eye - Even weave linen from embroidery stores is awesome and easier to work with for counted blackwork then the slubby stuff - This breaks down into the SCAdian problem of “Do I want some that I think looks rad? Or do I want something that is perfectly period correct? If I do this and it isn’t period correct, is it going to be glaringly anachronistic? And am I trying to impress *them* or me?”

[crumpetty-blog]

Latest blackwork project being worked on :)

This is taken from a beautiful shirt at the V&A, pattern supplied by the talented Kari Wilson-Romberger. It’s blue silk on even weave fabric.

[ladyemlyn]

You’re so good at counted work. i suck at it.

[crumpetty-blog]

Heya! I finally worked out which button to use to reply to a comment!

I think there are some fantastic ways to set yourself up for success with counted work, and it takes practice. And everyone who is okay at counted stuff is amazing at unpicking :)

My tips are: I always count across two holes rather then one otherwise it's hard to recount stitches, if you need glasses make sure you are wearing them, lots of light makes life easier and have a really good unpicker :)

@ladyemlyn

[crumpetty-blog]

Almost finished updating now! This is another lovely design from Kari Wilson-Rombergers embroidery pattern book. A set of cuffs quickly made up for a Tudor raffle basket, to raise funds for Lochac's regalia upkeep. Very quick and easy to make up, it was probably only 8 hours in total. Note the exhausted DJ dog, it's a hard life being a pampered puppy.

[crumpetty-blog]

Latest blackwork project being worked on :) This is taken from a beautiful shirt at the V&A, pattern supplied by the talented Kari Wilson-Romberger. It's blue silk on even weave fabric.

[crumpetty-blog]

Heya all :)

I know that I haven’t been around much lately, sometimes I find it hard to post when I’ve left it awhile. It’s surprising that social anxiety can affect you even when you can’t see the people!

So this is the completed Gryphon purse I have been working on for a while! This is silk thread on slubby linen, using split stitch. It’s appliquéd onto the velvet using silver thread for the pretty couching. I finger braided the trim and the cord for opening and closing the bag and linen it in white linen. Lastly, I popped the tassels onto the bottom of the bag, because who doesn’t like tassels?

What would I do differently? I would change a lot of the shading on the gryphon, it’s not quite right but a good first try. I’ve had a few people note that I should try colouring in a paper version of my patterns first so that I can sort out in my mind what the shadowing should look like. I would probably construct the bag a little differently. Otherwise, I’m pretty happy for what it is. It’s been popped into the guild for grading and then is being donated to the local barony to become a gift.

[crumpetty-blog]

Progress on Cedric :) Also, tip of the day: Do not iron velvet on the linen setting. It's a really bad idea.

[crumpetty-blog]

Cuthbert's brother is actually being worked on! I'm currently working through a number of projects and my brain space is a little limited. My partner is currently having a new set of 15th century Burgundian clothes made, I have a Commision piece which is awesome but regularly turning my brain inside out and all the other things that come with bing in the SCA. One bite at a time, right? In the meantime, I've started working on this during my lunch breaks at work. He's been call Cedric the 'Armless. He will be accompanying Cuthbert the unwilling on my 14th century alms purse that I am hoping to have completed by Festival (a big Lochac event) next year. Like Cuthbert, he's worked with silk thread on slubby linen.

[crumpetty-blog]

Cuthbert's brother being sketched up :)

[crumpetty-blog]

I've been finding myself looking at paintings more often lately, as I try to work my mind around how to identify embroidery types. I found this beautiful Holbein on another bloggers site ( http://medievalartcraft.blogspot.ie/2013/05/an-unexpected-museum-visit-in-frankfurt.html ) and became slightly enchanted. I can't help but wonder if the 'blobby' bit on the ends of the crosses are meant to be beads. And whether the white crosses are embroidered or just a void of thread. Also, check out how uneven it is! Artist being a bit casual about the pattern? Or another example of how not all needlework was perfect in it's creation?

[crumpetty-blog]

The blackwork cuffs are almost completed! Just a bit of hand sewing to go and finishing off the documentation. I've popped a photo of the red silk here, just because it's so darn pretty. The pattern for the shirt is an ongoing piece of crazy, but it seems to be getting there. I think I'll be erasing this one and starting again, I'll keep the blog posted :) Lastly, working vaguely on a favour for my husband. Admittedly, there isn't a lot of proof of fully embroidered favours, but I'll be doing a little more research before I jump to any big conclusion. In the mean time, I am loving the silk I'm using for the yellow section. Full of amazing shine!

[crumpetty-blog]

A little bit of progress on the blackwork and some thoughts on pattern transcribing... Are all blackwork patterns made equal? Hell no, as I am currently proving. The biggest hurdle I am currently facing is whether to completely grid this or whether to think about going prick and pounce method. The problem that I can really see, is that this pattern honestly seems to be using a bit of column a and a little of column b. With cross stitch thrown is for extra giggle. The straight lines of the knot work look like they might be counted, but the flowers look eyeballed due to slight differences throughout. Not to mention trying to work out linen thread count to the grid book is doing my head in. By the time I get this done, I have a feeling I will have well earned my white linen payment!

[crumpetty-blog]

Blackwork which is red this time :) Also, sleeping puppies and episodes of Castle :)