Degrees of Freedom

Slow travel, fast adventure. Stay tuned for our sabbatical trip through the Balkans in Fall 2023.

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That's a Wrap: Top 10 List

As we await our connecting flight from the Narita International Airport*, I thought I'd make a top 10 list of our experiences over the last four months. If you're planning a trip to the region, keep in mind that my travel preferences are pretty biased toward nature-oriented things, so your mileage may vary. We also didn't do, like, all the things that there are here. But we did a lot of things! Here were my favorite things.

10. Hiking in Pai

People who have been to Pai sometimes talk about "falling down the Pai hole", which is when you go to Pai and then never leave. I can absolutely see why this would happen. This little town has a surprising number of inviting bars, restaurants, hippy hangouts, and a great night market. It's pretty temperate as far as Thailand goes, even getting a bit cold at night. And the hiking trails - like Pai Canyon pictured here - are amazing! We were there for just two nights but I could envision spending a lot more time there.

9. Motorbiking the Mae Hong Son Loop

This four-day excursion was one of the most terrifying and memorable parts of the trip. It's well worth the journey to enjoy the beautiful scenery and visit some of the more remote northern parts of Thailand. If you're not super comfortable on a bike, it would also make an excellent road trip in a rental car. Gravol strongly recommended for your passengers.

8. Malaysian Food Touring

I've said it before and I'll say it again: Malaysia has the best food in the region. The country's Chinese, Malay, and Indian influences come together to create a unique and exquisite food scene. Come for the culture, stay for the food. Don't leave without trying the nasi lamak.

7. Cheow Lan Lake, Koh Sok

This lake is completely breathtaking, and situated in some very remote wilderness. Spending the weekend in such a place is pretty special. At the same time though, it's expensive and arduous to get to, and full of regulations about what you can do there (e.g., no swimming without a life jacket). And are these particular limestone cliffs really THAT much more gorgeous than South Thailand's many other cliffs? I give it my #7 slot.

6. Singapore Cloud Forest

Any time spent in Singapore is time well-spent. But I think the most futuristic thing we saw was the cloud forest. A whole ecosystem inside a glass dome. Trippy. What a feat of engineering. Nearby you can also see the flower dome and those crazy supertrees.

5. Scuba diving in Koh Lanta

The protected marine parks near Koh Lanta offer some world class diving. So many incredible fish, coral, and caverns to explore. The strong currents also offer a great chance to test and practice new dive skills.

I'm never gonna forget that octopus.

3. Railay Beach

I don't even know what specific experience to list here. Just... all of Railay Beach. Where else can you kayak to a cove in the morning, hike to a hidden lagoon in the afternoon, and finish off the day with this sunset? If you have just one week in Thailand, I recommend spending it at Railay Beach.

2. Visiting Elephants in Chiang Mai

I couldn't neglect the whole impetus for this trip: Elephants! Caveat here is that the ethics of elephant interactions can be dicey, as many "sanctuaries" probably shouldn't call themselves that. We were lucky to have an elephant researcher recommend a good one for us, as the signs aren't always obvious (e.g., whether the mahouts ride the elephants isn't as important as whether they get proper vet care). And of course, wild elephants are the happiest elephants. But, there are over 4000 elephants in captivity in Thailand, and visiting the good sanctuaries helps to keep them fed (which is expensive), and keep them away from the logging and rubber trades.

And, they are just so, so adorable.

Solo quarantining in a hotel room in Bangkok

If you come to Thailand, you definitely have to spend two weeks in a little room by yourself as ordered by the Thai government.

Just kidding. Although I do look back on those weeks surprisingly fondly. But, the top experience for me is obviously kayaking.

It's hard to choose between the various kayaking experiences, but I'm picking Phang Nga Bay for its accessibility, the quality of the available kayaks, and the non-stop jaw-dropping awe-inspiring gorgeousness of the area. I would go back to Phuket just to do this day trip again. Maybe make it a multiday trip next time.

And that's all she wrote. Thank you so much for following along with me on this journey. It's been a blast documenting my experiences on this antiquated little blog, and occasionally being surprised to learn that some folks actually read it.

If you find yourself planning your own trip, feel free to reach out and we can nerd out on travel plans.

Until the next adventure!

*Boarding was called before I could post, so I'm actually now posting from London, Ontario. We made it home!

[datingdecisions]

Dining in the Dark

Today is the very last day of our trip. James thought we should go out with a bang, so he reserved us a table last night at "KL Dining in the Dark": a restaurant in which you are served various mystery dishes in complete darkness.

We first entered a candle-lit walkway that led to a moody lounge. We both had the same thought: there's plenty of light here to see the food. Are they going to blindfold us or something? But no no, that's just the waiting area.

The actual dining experience is through this door.

Our server first had us deposit our phones and other possessions in a locker. We then formed a conga line so he could lead us through what felt like a series of curtains to a table in a room that was, as promised, pitch black. He also gave us lots of verbal instructions to help us find things ("Your spoon is on the left", "your water glass is above the fork on your right", etc.).

The wait staff at this restaurant are all blind, and the restaurant has received a "Most Supportive Employer" Award from the Malaysian Association for the Blind.

The first course was a set of four small appetizers, all served in separate bowls that fit inside a wooden tray so you can feel your way around them. It was really strange and interesting trying to guess what each dish was. Some sort of fruit and feta cheese? A seaweed salad? This one has vinegar in it, maybe?

Anyway, they looked delicious!

We were also served two soups (one hot and one cold), three entrees, and four little desserts. So, a very thorough tasting experience with lots to sample. I think not being able to see the food made me a more adventurous eater.

Once we were back to the lounge at the end of the meal, we got to see the menu and learn what all the dishes were. I had been SO bad at guessing. What I thought had been a beef dish was actually lamb. What I thought was a chicken curry was salmon. The broccoli soup was actually butternut squash, and so on. It's kind of amazing how much you rely on visual cues to know what you're eating.

Overall, a really special and novel experience, and a great way to celebrate the end of the trip, as well as our dating anniversary (happy 12 years to us!)

And that just about brings us to the end of our stay in Kuala Lumpur! Tomorrow, if all goes well, we'll be getting on a 7am plane to Toyko, then Washington, and finally Toronto. What a trip it's been.

Here's some footage of a KL mall.

[datingdecisions]

Islamic Arts Museum

With the trip coming to a close, we're motivated to make the most of our remaining time in Kuala Lumpur. So today, we made our way to the Islamic Arts Museum of Malaysia.

This museum has over 7000 artefacts from the Islamic world: the largest collection in SE Asia, and with many displays that would be difficult to find in North America.

Like, this room about Islamic architecture that contains over a dozen models of famous mosques.

Or this display of ornate, handwritten Qurans.

The museum went on, with extensive collections of Islamic textiles, pottery, jewelry, furniture, and weaponry.

One of the most interesting aspects of the museum was its decidedly not Eurocentric description of historical events. For example, there was a display about Tipu Sultan that describes him as having spent his rule resisting the invasion of the British East India Company, with a military that "surpassed the British troops in many aspects." Ultimately though, Seringapatam fell, and Tipu Sultan was killed.

"It is far better to live like a lion for a day than to live like a jackal for a hundred years" - Tipu Sultan of Mysore, 1750-1799 AD.

There was also an unapologetically pro-Palestinian display about Palestine. Again, just a very different take from your typical Western history book.

On our way back from the museum, we snapped a few shots of the more impressive buildings in this area of KL. Like this television station.

And this old train station.

Finally, it was time for the near-daily "walk home in a tropical rain storm without getting wet" challenge. This city is full of awnings for a reason.

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The Petronas Towers

KL's most iconic landmarks are the Petronas Twin Towers. At 452 meters, they are currently the tallest twin towers in the world. They also held the title of tallest building in the world from 1998-2004.

At home, James and I have a "stamp map" where we stamp the places we've been in the world. And the Petronas Towers have their own little icon on the map! So we knew before visiting that we had to see this building.

In fact, we tried to do so three times. On the first attempt, it was too rainy and we decided the view wouldn't be good. On the second, they were already sold out for the day (they only take groups of 10 at a time). We finally managed to snag tickets today, nearing the very end of our trip.

Walking on the bridge between the towers is a particularly strange experience. It feels like a regular building until you realize that there really is nothing below you for 40 stories.

There was a video in one of the rooms talking about how proud the locals are of the towers and how they put Malaysia on the map globally. And, I've gotta say, they're not wrong. These towers were pretty much the only thing I knew about KL before coming here.

There was also a rather dystopian propaganda video about Petronas. Did you know that an oil company is going to save the earth?

The view of the spire at the top.

And that was it for our Petronas Twin Towers visit! I still have a couple of photo slots left in this post, so here are some bonus pictures from Malacca. Pictured: us on a pimped-out rickshaw near a statue of Dr. Gan Boon Leong, a Chinese temple, and some Year of the Tiger street art.

[datingdecisions]

Nyonya Food

We've been in Malaysia for three weeks now, and hands down my favorite thing about this country has been the food. Day or night in KL, you can find an incredible meal made with fresh ingredients for about $5. $8 if you want it delivered.

I've ordered these sweet bean tacos at least five times.

So, we knew that our trip to Malacca would be something of a food tour. We were particularly on the lookout for Nyonya food: a cuisine with a mix of Chinese, Malay, and South Indian influences that, according to our cab driver, the area is known for.

We started out with some nasi lemak: Malaysia's signature dish. Typically this dish has coconut rice, sambal (a sweet and spicy sauce), an egg on top, as well as several other garnishes and some sort of additional protein (in this case, fried chicken). The rice really makes the dish because of the way it's steamed in coconut milk and pandan leaves. Such a delicious, comforting meal.

Later, we moved on to a restaurant that claims to serve "authentic Nyonya cuisine". We ordered some mee goreng (left), a fried noodle dish, and pandan chicken (right), served with rice cooked with some sort of floral spice mixture and more sambal. I still don't really know which of these dishes are actually considered to be Nyonya vs. Malay but they were all delicious.

And, of course, because we're here for the weekend, we couldn't miss the night market!

On our first visit, we didn't get all that adventurous. I just can't resist a fresh grilled cob.

But we did return later for more morsels. On the right, we have putu piring: a dessert made of rice flour and sugar. On the left, we have sweet potato puffs, which were delightfully light and airy. It took about 10 minutes to prepare ~40 of them. A bag of 10 puffs costs 5 ringit (~$1.50). It's kind of amazing that these stalls are lucrative enough to exist.

I love watching the vendors prepare the food.

[datingdecisions]

Malacca

This weekend, we took a 2-hour, $4 bus to Malacca: a UNESCO Historic City and a fascinating multicultural place to visit.

This city used to be an international trade centre, with traders from Arabia, China, and India. It was later colonized by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British--all influences you can find in the architecture. Today, the city is a popular tourist destination, especially for Singaporeans, who are only a few hours away by bus.

Visiting this city has been an absolute delight due to its walkability and aesthetic charm. It's easy to get lost strolling around all the interesting buildings, shops, and street art.

At night, colorful lights illuminate the river for kilometers. You can enjoy them by walking along the riverfront, which is dotted with restaurants and bars, or by signing up for a river cruise that takes you through the whole display. The lights and lack of traffic give the riverside a fun party atmosphere. But in a laidback way, not in a seedy, aggressive way like Patong.

Overall, this city has managed to achieve the sort of vibe I was expecting to find in the Cameron Highlands. 10/10 for Malacca - worth a visit if you're in Malaysia!

[datingdecisions]

Awas!

Today, we squeezed in a few more rainy sights in the Cameron Highlands before driving back to the city. Starting with: a sheep sanctuary!

For just eight ringgit apiece, you can feed a box of kibble to some sheep.

One of them tried to eat James's hat.

We also visited one of the tea shops, enjoyed a cuppa and took a stroll through their fields. Properly this time, in the section intended for tourists. It had little paths with hand rails and lookout points. Such luxury.

On the drive back, we also paid a visit to Lata Iskandar: a beautiful waterfall that's right off of Route 59.

Route 59 is a windy, narrow, and not particularly well-maintained road, with lots of signs saying, "Awas!" We were pretty sure "awas" meant "danger" or "slow" or something like that, but we weren't sure exactly what. "Awas" became a running joke over the course of the road trip, alongside the many other road signs we didn't understand.

This posting at one of the tea fields finally offered us a translation.

[datingdecisions]

Cameron Highlands

This weekend, we rented a car and drove north to the Cameron Highlands: a mountainous region known for its tea and strawberry farms.

The landscape is, as promised, absolutely picturesque. But the town itself is pretty bizarre. Clearly focused on tourism - as evidenced by the many, many hotels - yet much of it looks like this.

Our hotel was also... weird. Its simultaneously grand yet rundown appearance gives strong "haunted mansion" vibes. The elevator, which you can clearly hear from the hotel room, makes a persistent dinging sound that may have been used in a Stephen King movie. Our room was cold, so I called the front desk to ask for an extra blanket and they just said no and hung up. There was a child playing in the hall at 5am ("but Sam, that child's been dead for 40 years!").

Overall, a rather strange and creepy place. But because we were already here and lack genre awareness, we decided to press on with our weekend plans.

One of the main attractions here is the Mossy Forest: rated by the Lonely Planet as one of the world's prettiest forests. We drove as far along the narrow, steep road as our little rental could go, then ditched it and continued on foot through the tea fields.

"This is the furthest from the Shire I've ever travelled, Mr. Frodo!"

The path continued to slope until our hike became more of a climb. It turns out you can hire a guide with a 4-wheeler to take you up there. In fact, you are very much supposed to. But the guard grudgingly let us continue to the top on foot.

And here it is: the Mossy Forest! The mist that collects at this altitude allows unique fauna to grow, and gives the area a mystical appearance. From the boardwalks, you can look out onto the province of Pahang on one side, and the province of Perak on the other.

The fog was rolling back in as we made it to the top of the lookout tower.

On the way home, we tried to take a "shortcut" back to the car that wound up going directly through some greenhouses. That was the weirdest place yet. Absolutely covered in garbage, but also carefully tended plants? Just very, very strange.

We were worried we might be trespassing, and we encountered one guy in a truck who we thought might tell us off. But instead he just said, "Mossy Forest not there." I guess he immediately clocked us as tourists and therefore not a threat. The happiest sight of the day: our rental, right where we left it.

[datingdecisions]

KL Bird Park

Yesterday, we visited the Kuala Lumpur Bird Park: one of the world's largest covered bird parks. It's home to over 3000 birds!

What makes this aviary different from others we've visited is that it's covered by a large dome netting, and so most of the birds are free to roam near the visitors rather than inside cages.

This hornbill came flew right into the balcony while we were eating lunch at... wait for it... the Hornbill Restaurant.

One part of the park has a waterfall.

We fed an ostrich some leaves.

But the craziest encounter we had was not with birds, but with monkeys.

We were watching a bird feeding when we noticed dozens of monkeys looking intently through the dome netting. We didn't realize until it was almost too late that the monkeys are not actually trapped outside of the dome.

After the staff member left, the monkeys quickly and easily climbed through seams in the netting to help themselves to the birds' leftover food.

After all that, it was time for refreshment.

Yes, there are bars in Kuala Lumpur.

[datingdecisions]

Bukit Bintang

So far, our time in Kuala Lumpur has felt less like touring and more like we just live here, which is a nice change from our last few destinations.

Our Airbnb's "fully outfitted kitchen" has no pots. After a failed attempt at boiling pasta in a frying pan, we set out to Mydin Wholesale Emporium: a 6-floor warehouse full of cheap goods. We found a perfectly good stock pot there for 20 ringgits (about $6).

Malaysia is a Muslim-majority country. Although this doesn't impact your freedoms as a visitor* (you can still buy beer, dress how you like, etc), you can certainly see the cultural impact in things like store displays, clothing options and advertising.

Also, we are here during Ramadan, which has an interesting effect on the restaurant industry. In the daytime, food courts and stalls are pretty empty. The Halal restaurants (of which there are many) are generally closed. But in the evening, locals file into long queues for the many Ramadan buffets that open at sundown.

The sunsets from our balcony are really beautiful.

*Unless you're in a same-sex relationship. Unfortunately, there's still a lot of homophobia here.

[datingdecisions]

Jewel Changi Airport

Travel days are not usually blogging days, but today is an exception because Singapore's airport is... well, this is the airport.

We arrived about six hours early so we could explore it, particularly Jewel: this area with an elaborate garden and an incredible waterfall.

I wound up wishing we had left even more time, because the 5th floor basically has theme park attractions. We had just enough time to walk across this "sky net". It's scarier than it looks because it's near the top of the dome. When you look down, there are several floors of nothing below the netting.

And the food court had curry puffs! At long last. A very tasty pastry indeed.

Miraculously, all our stuff could still be crammed into our luggage. It's even under the carry weight limit! Ish. The flight attendant did us a real favor there.

One of these suitcases has a rug in it.

Now we're in a cozy apartment in Kuala Lumpur, which we've rented for a month. These next few weeks will probably be lighter on the blogging as we start chipping away at a mountain of backlogged work. Even so, I'm sure we'll still find some time for excursions, shenanigans, and generally finding out what Malaysia is all about.

Here's the view from our balcony.

[datingdecisions]

ArtScience and a Fancy Meal

Yesterday's main attraction was the ArtScience Museum: a celebration of the merger of science and art.

This museum is full of trippy exhibits that showcase the use of technology to create mind-blowing art.

We also made a few last-ditch attempts at properly experiencing Singaporean food.

We went back to the stall with the award-winning curry puffs, only to learn that it's closed on the weekends.

Thinking that maybe we needed a little help from a local, we booked a city food tour. But it was cancelled due to a family commitment!

Finally, when all hope seemed lost, we stumbled upon Waku Ghin: a restaurant at Marina Bay with not one, but TWO Michelin Stars.

I tell you what: this place earned its stars.

This wagu beef dish included some unknown ingredient that made it taste like childhood. You've redeemed yourself, Michelin critics.

We couldn't exactly go straight home on a Saturday night after a meal like that, so we capped off the evening with a visit to a rooftop brewery. The world's highest microbrewery! What a view.

And... that's it. We called Uncle after that, and pretty much all we did today was get a travel covid test and watch Outlander. Tomorrow it's onward to Malaysia.

You did it, Singapore. You wore us out. I will not soon forget you.

[datingdecisions]

The Search for Michelin

Just about everyone I've talked to about Singapore has mentioned two things: 1) it's really expensive and 2) the food scene is exquisite.

Regarding Point 1: It's certainly no Thailand, especially for accommodations. But, like with most cities, you can pay just about any amount you wish for things, and there are lots of cheap eats and free activities to be found.

Regarding Point 2: Unfortunately our weird sleep schedule has interfered with proper culinary exploration. We usually wind up grabbing whatever is closest when we roll out of bed at 11am, or whatever is still open after work at 1am. Today, we decided to correct this by setting off for China Town, an area well-known for its Michelin-recommended Hawker stalls.

In particular, Hawker Chan held a Michelin Star until 2021, and became famous for serving the world's cheapest Michelin-Starred meal. However, our goal was once again marred by our late schedule plus my lack of direction. By the time we reached the Hawker Chan stall, they were already out of food!

We did try two other stalls that have been blessed by the Michelin guidebook. The first was the Tian Tian Chicken Rice stall, and... I'm not gonna lie, it was pretty bland.

The 168 Satay Stall was much tastier. Perfect amount of zing in the bbq sauce that nicely complimented the peanut sauce.

Dinner time - the best time for good eating - unfortunately cuts through our worknight. But, I did order another Michelin-recommended meal, delivered to our hotel via Grab (it's actually a category in the app). And, well, I've had better airplane food.

Overall, I don't know what those Michelin critics are on about. We tried three of their recommendations today and they weren't much to write home about (even though I am writing home about them). None of them had a star, though. Maybe the place has to have a star.

We might go back earlier on the weekend and try again for the Hawker Chan, and also a Bib Gourmand curry puff place that was similarly out of puffs. The early bird gets the pastries, it seems!

[datingdecisions]

Art, Nature, and a Very Pricey Drink

Today started off with a visit to the National Gallery Singapore: the world's largest public display of modern Southeast Asian art.

In some ways, I find modern art galleries to be more historically informative than history museums. Instead of learning about political events from the perspective of the ruling class, you learn about them through a lens of subversion and protest.

For example, this Indonesian piece is about worker exploitation by landowners. Wealth inequality was a common theme across the exhibits. Other themes included freedom of expression, anticolonial resistance, and the horrors of war.

After absorbing a lot of sobering imagery at the NGS, we decided to get tipsy at the Raffles Hotel. (The irony that this hotel is itself a colonial space was not lost on us).

The Raffles Hotel- which has been visited by the likes of Kipling, Hitchcock, and Hemingway- is the birthplace of the Singapore Sling. Nowadays, you can sit where Hemingway once sat and enjoy a signature cocktail. Probably just one, because they cost $38.

Finally, we walked off the effects of the day's activities with a 10km hike through Southern Ridges. This trail takes you on a journey through several of Singapore's best parks, with pedestrian bridges so that you never have to cross any roads.

It was, without a doubt, the bougiest hike I've been on. This "trail" is mostly walkways through the treetops of the jungle, with breathtaking views of the city wherever the trees part.

This hike probably should have been its own post. Oh well, we did it all in one day so you can too. You get five photos of the Southern Ridges. Maybe we should take it easy tomorrow.

[datingdecisions]

Kampong Glam

Today we impulsively bought a Persian rug!

Let me back up. The hotel we're staying at is in Little India: a neighborhood that's fascinating in its own right and that we still need to explore beyond indulging in late-night dosa. But, if you walk south for about 15 minutes, you reach Kampong Glam: Singapore's historic and highly instagrammable Muslim quarter.

Our plan for today was to explore this neighborhood, soaking up its vibrant culture, gorgeous architecture, and all-around fun bohemian vibes.

However, it didn't take long for us to reach the textile shops. I have such a weakness for Middle Eastern textiles... (and lamps, but that's a problem for another day).

The rugs were so beautiful that we decided to buy a small one as a souvenir.

The shopkeeper was very patient with us, taking the time to unroll virtually every rug in the store so we could compare them all. Here's the one we chose:

It'll fit in the suitcase somehow! Maybe I'll throw some stuff away to make room. Who needs clothes when you have a rug.

I love my rug.

[datingdecisions]

Gardens By The Bay

At times, it felt like we could stay in Thailand forever. But then, we'd remember that our visas are expiring.

We hemmed and hawed about where to go next, considering and ruling out countries like Cambodia (too hot right now) and the Philippines (too much flying required). We finally settled on...

Japan!

Just kidding. Japan's borders have been closed for two years. This is Singapore. Specifically, the Flower Dome: an unimaginably gigantic greenhouse that maintains year-round spring temperatures and currently features a cherry blossom exhibit.

When we first arrived in Singapore, we were both met with an odd sense of familiarity. Everything is in English, the Singapore dollar is roughly at par with the Canadian dollar, and everyone seems to be in a rush. Combine that with the architecture, and I could easily believe I was in Toronto.

But as we did more exploring, it became increasingly clear that, no: this is not Toronto.

James made an interesting point that people used to imagine a modern world filled with steel, glass, and concrete. Retro futurism, we call it now. But today's image of a futuristic city is usually clean and filled with green space. That future is already here, in Singapore.

After getting briefly caught in the rain, we made our way to the Cloud Forest: another mind-blowingly large conservatory that is essentially an indoor forest with a 35-meter waterfall.

Please enjoy this short, rainy clip of the Cloud Forest, and remind James that he's not supposed to touch the plants.

[datingdecisions]

Patong Beach

After ten weeks of travelling around Thailand - from major cities to remote villages - we decided that our last stop should be the quintessential Thailand holiday destination: Patong Beach, Phuket.

Patong Beach is Thailand's version of Vegas. Forget about living like a local: every inch of this town is designed with tourists in mind. Hotels, motels, night clubs, and souvenir shops dot the streets, alongside western restaurants (at western prices).

Would you like to sit in a tiger-themed bar? Or, maybe you'd rather get your photo taken with some sad and sedated - but very much real - tigers. Really.

Everywhere you go here, people are jumping into your path to offer you taxis, massages, boat tours, discounted vodka shots, or tickets to live XXX shows. Any hedonistic whim you can think up can be satisfied here, for the right price.

Thanks, I hate it.

Unlike most other places we've been, the beach here is not in a protected natural area, which means that jet skiing and related recreating is allowed. I think this short but thrilling banana boat ride is the most fun thing we've done here.

We've spent most of our free time at our hotel's infinity pool, which I've gotta say is pretty swanky.

Take a walk with me along Bangla Road on a Friday night. Try not to catch covid through the screen.